Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.
It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.” It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.
Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.
A flashmob thriller dance in the airport.Our Airbnb is above here in El panacillo.View when walking early morning This old deteriorating car was interesting Two entwined birds sculptureLoja city letters near the gate to the cityThe gate to the city The gate from the other side The thinker… Ecuadorian styleView from the gate into the cityView from the top tower of the gateOutside the tower we saw the city tour bus. We were able to get on the tour and see buildings we would want to go back toAn obelisk in a round about Simón Bolívar parkFor día de los muertos, they sell colada morada and guagua de pan. It is a sweet fruit and corn flour drink. The bread is filled with a lightly sweet filling. I did go back to get a bread later. This photo taken from the top of the city tour bus.Catholic cathedral. Today was día de los muertos and the service is in honor of family members.Independence square also known as San Sebastián square.Plaza de San Francisco Inside the music museum.Calle de los Lourdes.View from the top of El panecillo looking towards the historical district.
One morning I climbed to the top of one mirador to see views of the city.
We also walked to Parque Jiripa where there are many activities for families. After peddling the swan boat we walked around a bit.
Then we went in search for food at the Cueva de cangrejos (Crab cave). Delicious!
On the way to Vilcabamba was the parque podocarpus.
Parque Podocarpus
Parque Nacional Podocarpus, often referred to as the “Botanical Garden of America,” runs across the provinces of Loja and Zamora-Chinchipe. It is best k own for its incredible biodiversity, the park covers an impressive 1,500 square kilometers and varies in altitude from 900 to 3,600 meters (3,000 to 11,800 feet). This allows many diverse ecosystems to exist: lowland tropical forests to high-altitude páramos. The views here are amazing.
The park’s name comes from the Podocarpus tree, which is a type of conifer found in the cloud forests.
There are around 4,000 species of plants, many of which are rare or endemic. These include orchids, ferns, and giant bromeliads.
Unfortunately, we didn’t much wildlife, but somewhere there are spectacled bear, mountain tapir, and giant armadillo. We did see one bird, an Andean guan.
A snack along the way
We stopped along the way to try some bread called bizcochuelo. It is much like a slightly sweet and a little drier spring cake. Paired with some sugar cane juice with naranjilla added to cut the sweetness.
Malacatos
We stopped to look at the church here and wander around to stretch our legs. I saw some coca cola flavored Oreos and had to try them! Yes, they had a hint of coca cola flavor and we’re quite tasty
Vilcabamba
This small town has a reputation for longevity among its residents. The name “Vilcabamba” comes from the indigenous Quechua language, meaning “Sacred Valley.” Now many expats and retirees live here and it draws international visitors who are interested in wellness, alternative medicine, and spirituality.
Yes, the water was very cold but maybe this imparts longevity too?Sopa verde. Very fresh with peas.Pescado. Excellent fish!We were serenaded by a street musician.
We had time afterwards to peruse the shops and street vendors. Before we knew it, it was time to return to Loja
It has been an interesting start of the year here in Ecuador. We have just now finished the first quarter of the year. Here is a recap.
Our bus stop was robbed early in the morning in the first week. American women are feisty: throwing hot tea in their face and running around. Pretty scary but we were glad they did not have a gun and didn’t stick around long. They didn’t get anything from us but did take a phone from another friend.
A historic drought has left power disruption here in Ecuador. All of their power is hydroelectric. There have been power cuts up to 14 hours a day and though it took a little time to adjust, one can make the most of time without power. I have been walking with a weighted backpack for an extra workout and to get used to walking with a full pack. Timing showers and laundry means being flexible and I am glad I have a gas stove. Making sure anything you want to do on the phone is downloaded and everything is charged. Recently I put up my Christmas tree with 4 strands of battery operated lights. It helps to illuminate and not use as many candles. I look for any excuse to put up the tree but it was a good choice!
Mindo
The annual bike ride to Mindo was in September. I didn’t ride, but instead went there to hang out with others. I stayed at the biohostal and could watch birds from the veranda.
One activity I have not done here is to hike the waterfalls
It was a beautiful 9 km hike!
On the way back out I met one of my colleagues Nadine. Many people from my school came to mindo that weekend.The megaswing that was quite a lot of fun.
Mindo night hike
This is another hike I wanted to do in Mindo. I did get to see a glass frog but no reptiles.
CentipedeGlass frog with the light above.Glass frog with the light below.This bird is called Rufus mutt mutt. It’s the only bird here that eats poisonous things.
I have been really lax in writing about things. It is like every start of a school year where there is a lot going on. I am looking forward to more relaxing times ahead.
I usually only come home once a year and then spend time traveling between family members. Here in PA there were some hikes, bike rides, and fun runs (walks for me).
Most of the time it is Sunni and I trying to stay out of trouble…
Stop at Brady’s bend after lunch with Mom
I spent one day with my friend Michele Belak which started with a morning race and ended with an evening race on the trails here in PA. In between we drove back and forth and stopped to see her horse. It was good to catch up with her. In the past, we used to meet at several races over the summer. It was great to catch up with her and hear about the people we worked with at Citizens Ambulance when we were in college.
One night Ryan and I rode bikes in an event called critical mass. Over 100 people participated in a 24 mile ride through the streets of Pittsburgh. The point is to take back the roads from cars and bring awareness that bikes have rights also. Here we are headed to the start of the ride.
Ryan and I also hiked some trails near Kittanning. They are small trails but very quiet and peaceful.
Afterwards we biked through the city of Pittsburgh from the north side to the south side along the trails and the rivers.
In front of the fountain at the point
Another road trip was to take my dad’s ashes to Buffalo and Erie. We visited the graves of my grandparents and stopped to see Duann, a friend from childhood.
Lake Erie
An event in Pittsburgh called picklesburgh also took place. Fun having some pickle egg rolls, pickle fudge, and other things.
And of course I played with everyone’s cats. This is the baby of Sunni’s and is a Maine coon.
The Thelma Sunni and Louise road trip this year was to Nashville. We stopped in Glasgow, Kentucky to see relatives of Sunni and then headed to Nashville the next morning.
The first stop was at Cooters Nashville. It is a museum to the Dukes of Hazzard, a TV series from the 1970’s. Fun! The General Lee was parked out front.
Our hotel was close to Broadway where all the honky tonks are found.
One of the favorite places for sunni to eat was Margaritaville.
One of our favorites was the John Bon Jovi bar where there was a constant stream of amateur musicians playing.
The Johnny Cash museum was really good. My family listened to his music when I was growing up. So many memories and it even included remembrances of all the people he toured with and were part of his production team. Even June Carter’s family was honored.
Fried deviled eggs were on the menu at his bar next door. Delicious and the music from the musicians was amazing.
Of course we had to stop at Coyote Ugly. The bar famous for the movie.
The night pontoon boat ride was really fun. Lots of games and people to talk to.
The chew crew are sheep who mow down the edges of the river Bank
Other pictures from around Nashville.
Morning walk along the Cumberland The chew crewRyman auditoriumAt the top of the pedestrian bridge.The Bluff Station was a lookout when the river was used for trade.
One morning I went to the Tennessee State House. It is beautiful inside.
Senate chambersPres. Polk and his wife are buried here
It has been a year since I saw Becca and her husband Ryan. I had gone through some of my things that have been packed for years and had asked her which things she as they just bought a house. I came to Montana laden with bags.
That night after unpacking we hiked a hill that had the letter M on it for the University of Montana (it overlooks the University). We hiked to the bottom of the M to see the sunset.
The next day, we went to a trail that overlooked the bitter roots. These are plants that grow in a valley between those mountains. These are roots that were used by indigenous peoples and still used today in food and medicine. It is also the state flower of Montana.
A few friends thought we brought snacks for them.
Afterwards we stopped at a Bitterroot brewing to have huckleberry beer. Yummy as well as the food we ordered.
We also rented a bike to go bike riding. Unfortunately I am not over the fear of wrecking and being injured and prefer trails that do not have gravel. Instead we found a paved area that leads to a beach along the river. Beautiful and relaxing.
Skipping rocks. Ryan is great at it Becca filming in slow motion.
We also drove through the bison preserve that is a protected area and had amazing information about the indigenous people and the almost extinction of the bison.
We had not traveled very far into the refuge when this big boy was seen walking down the road. We let him have as much of the road as he wanted.
This actually is a grizzly bear cub at the top of a tree. Can you see him?ElkBeautiful wildflowers and a black butterfly.
The garden of 1000 buddhas
On the way back from the bison range, we stopped in Arlee. This spiritual site was beautiful. There are one thousand statues of Buddha arranged in a circle. There are spaces and carved sayings on rocks to inspire for meditation, reflection, and peace.
StupasPrayer flags releasing intentions into the wind
It was a really short visit and next year there will be more days in Montana. I miss my family and will be spending more time each year with her
Belize is a beautiful and amazing country with wonderfully kind people. I like to watch shows like House Hunters International for ideas of places to visit and possibly live in. It was a great addition at the end of visiting Guatemala as it is also rich in Mayan history.
Belize was once part of the extensive Maya civilization. The Maya built extensive cities that had developed advanced knowledge in mathematics, astronomy, and architecture.
The Spanish arrived in the 16th century, but they found it challenging to control the area due to the resistance from the Maya and the dense jungles.
The Spanish arrived in the 16th century but had difficulty maintaining control due to the Mayans and the dense jungle. In the 17th century, British pirates and loggers began settling in Belize. The wood of value was logwood and mahogany. Eventually the British had dominance.
Old colonial style house
In 1862, Belize became a British colony known as British Honduras. African slaves were brought in for logging.
In 1964 they earned the right of self-government. But they didn’t gain full independence until September 21, 1981. Belize has a democratic government and its economy is focused on tourism and agriculture.
It has a diverse culture with influences from its Maya heritage, British colonial past, and various ethnic groups (Creole, Mestizo…)
I took a food tour of Belize city. We are fish enchiladas and also taquitos.
Belizean treats which is a jam tart and a coconut tart.
I usually only try new flavors of ice cream. But these two are my favorite: soursop also known as uvilla and craboo which is known as guanábana.
We also stopped at a rum factory. The coconut rum was heavenly.
We toured around the various areas of the city. It really is an amazing city and possibly on the list for a retirement place.
Biggest importer in the country.Cemetery in the middle of the city that is bisected by a major roadway.I thought this sign was pretty interesting. There is a large dance studio in the area.
Now to prepare for the flights back to the US and to see family. I do miss them.
I took a tour to this other ruin close to San Ignacio. After the short drive, you get on the small ferry across the nature section of the Mopan river. This ferry is hand cranked.
These Mayan ruins are younger than the others I have seen. Though there is evidence that they were inhabited in 1000 BC, it was not a major Mayan center until 250 AD. Its name means stone woman as locals would see an apparition of a woman walking through the overgrown jungle towards one of the structures.
The name for the mounds of vegetation and dirt that covered the structures are called montículos.
Since it is summer, the University groups that are working on excavating were there. It was really interesting to talk to them about their work.
They uncovered stairs and foundationsA shard of potteryThe chiseling is the stamp of the architect
El Castillo was a fortress designed to house royalty but also protect them. Residences were at the top and viewing platforms with columns used for spectators and watchmen. The engraved artwork was recreated with plaster after years of degradation.
El Castillo is the tallest structure at the site. It is built from the bedrock of a hill with stairs leading to that bedrock layer.This is the bedrock layerChannels were created to move water.A sleeping areaFacing the WestShrine with columns. This is facing West and Guatemala is just in the distance.The use of columns dates to the later classic period around 900 ADSpiny back iguana not hunted for food While excavating on the side, they found a tomb and followed it back through.The size of the stones determines how old it is. Further back is much larger stones and the newer structures were built on top of the old ones with smaller stones. Using cement with the smaller stones means that the structures lasted for quite some time and can also not collapse.From the top of El Castillo facing North.
We walked through the ancient road and to the two sites that are just being excavated.
They know that this is a foundation and they are looking for evidence of the doorThis sutre was a quarry, not for stones for building but instead for sculpture stonesThis has not been inscribedThis was an ancient ball court. The sloped sides had the stone hoops and the balls were made of hard rubber made from the sap of a tree and hit by elbows and knees
The last image is the time of heaven and the underworld in their religious beliefs.
I loved visiting this site as it was one of the major Mayan cities along with Tikal. Being close to the Mopan river, trading was easy with other cities.
I had a few tours cancelled. Unfortunately, when traveling solo that can happen as a minimum is required for each tour though usually there are others who sign up. But it is the slow season in a small town in Belize. Having time without an agenda is good for me. I have done a lot in the last 2.5 weeks….
I walked to the Green Iguana conservation project and along the way walked through the streets of the town. Very hot but a nice walk around.
And I wondered what Freddie Mercury was singing about in Bohemian RhapsodyThey had me at cashew wine
Green Iguana conservation project
This project breeds green iguanas and the babies are released into the wild to repopulate. Some of the inhabitants are the breeding adults and they are unable to live again in the wild as they were rescued.
This is the male and so gentle.Two femalesThis guy is a spinetail iguanaYoung yearlingsOnly one of the yearlings is calm enough to do this. Fun. Of the adults, this male was the calmest and doesn’t mind being held.
My next stop in travels is San Ignacio, Belize. It is only a couple hours from Flores by car. Transport is inexpensive ($20) and easy but it could take a little longer depending on how many pick up stops there are.
A house in Guatemala along the way. The average Guatemalan makes 4000 quetzales a year which is $500 USD.By the border of Guatemala and Belize
Within a half hour we were at San Ignacio and after a walk up a big hill (a kind local man offered to take me and my carryon up the hill in his truck when I was halfway) I arrived at the Cahal Pech resort which is next to the local ruins of the same name.
After dropping off my luggage I headed to the ruins.
A good friend of mine, Candy Shively, commented on my Tikal post about what I observed about the building styles in different parts of the world. I had actually been thinking about that and some of the information in these ruins answered some of my questions.
The layout of pyramids here and in Cambodia were central to people’s lives (the wealthy were the only ones in the palaces but markets and delegations still happened in these places).
One could think that here in Mesoamérica they were not skilled or intelligent because of how they built. But in reality, every place in the world was constrained by what they had available to them. The concept of the wheel was known here and artifacts of children’s toys had wheels. But the lack of large animals like horses, etc. made the use of wheels not as efficient as in early Europe.
Locally available limestone was cut and moved on the backs of workers. The pyramids here are solid with smaller pyramid structures under the larger parts. They did not use metal tools for cutting as the resources for forging are not existent here. They were however skilled at making cement. Cementing helped keep the rock’s together though as you know, nature always wins.
Nature taking over the tops of structures
In other parts of the world it is different. In the middle east (my only experience is Turkey), they used mud and baked clay bricks. In Europe, wood was abundant for building. In China, they used rammed earth methods for foundations and also used wood, especially in the north. In Cambodia they used large limestone bricks but did not use cement to hold them together. The rocks were cut and aligned precisely. In Egypt, their stones are much larger and moved using rollers and water to reduce the friction on the sand. The change in elevations and the availability of water here in Mesoamérica would make that impossible.
In Egypt and Cambodia, as here with the Mayans, they were precise and used astronomy to lay out the structures along cardinal points with remarkable accuracy. These aligned with astronomical events central to their lives and religious purposes.
The uses of the pyramids are also different. Pyramids in Egypt are used for the burial of pharaohs. In Mesoamérica and Cambodia, they are the center of daily life and used for rituals. Therefore, they are solid inside and more ornate on the outside, with steps for ceremonial purposes at the top. Both Cambodia and Mesoamérica were masters at water irrigation, constructing cisterns around and through their temple cities.
I really marvel at the layouts and imagine what life then would be like. I think the ingenuity of humans is similar everywhere using what they have available and using resources in different ways to solve problems.
Plazas, which are courtyards, are central to the life in these pyramid cities.
Residences had stone beds where ticking would be used for some comfort.
Other pictures of Cahal Pech
New resident in the building…
Ball courts were used for entertainment, competition between rival cities, and to settle disputes. Often these ended in sacrifice, and not always the losers.
The West Ball Court
Millipedes
Along the East Ball Court.
Certainly the Egyptian pyramid construction started one to two thousand years earlier than the other areas of the world but modern pyramids building in Egypt is roughly the same age as other pyramid construction. Obviously, these constructions show the development of those civilizations at that time.
