HurricaneMaine

Mendoza, Argentina

On our final leg of the holiday vacation, we spent a few days in Mendoza which is known for its amazing wines.

The first day we went to Bodega Clos de Chacra for tasting, tour, and lunch.

Wine used to be kept in clay caves and would flow the wine in channels

Lunch was 7 courses (siete pasos). Great food and a lot of wine. Good thing we had a driver!

Needless to say we did not do anything else the rest of the day….

The next day we visited a few wineries. Cruzat is one of the few wineries that produces sparkling wine.

After 2 more wineries, we stopped at Rincon Gieco for a sandwich and wine tasting (by this point I didn’t want any more wine.)

Next is sailing here in Mendoza followed by a return to Santiago and then to Quito.

Rapa Nui (More photos)

I went to Abu Tahai for sunset. So beautiful. The cemetery is near the archaeological site.

I rented a bike one day and rode across the center of the island. Harder than I thought and very sunny. But I made it to Anakena Beach, had a swim and some pineapple juice and made the trip back. One way is 1.5 hours stopping for pictures.

Vinapu

There are only so many female maoi statues. This is a drawing of what a complete one would look like.

The column in front is the female statue minus the head. The head however has not been recovered.

The pukao or top knot which is the hair (man bun) and are made of red scoria a lighter weight volcanic rock.

Many platforms were reused especially when resources were scarce. The stones were reused for houses and underneath the platforms was a place for burials or houses.

.irador Rana Kau

This crater is a collapsed volcano and some produce found here grows on some of the slopes of the crater.

The petroglyph on this rock is that of the birdman.

Orongo

This is on the other side of the volcano Crater. There is remains of Rapa Nui houses from the 1700’s and reconstructed houses to show what they would have looked like. Here the birdman competition would happen. A representative(s) from each klan would go to the island on a log like surfing to retrieve the egg of the sooty tern.

Ahu Huri A Urenga

Puma Pau

Interesting tree. Not a pine but leaves that are stiff and a bit sharp.

Ahu Akiv

Maoi generally face inland. This looks like it is facing towards the water, but there would have been a village in front of it. The maoi always face towards the people as they represent mana and enlightenment.

So what if there was an alternative explanation to the Rapa Nui culture disappearing?

A theory is the inhabitants of Rapa Nui could have attempted to move to another island They were skilled Polynesian navigators capable of long ocean voyages. Why it is not likely:
1. Rapa Nui is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world.

2. By the time of their decline, deforestation meant that they lacked materials for constructing large seafaring canoes.

3. They also had less capacity for organizing expeditions.

It has been an amazing 5 days here. Relaxing and so peaceful. Not overly touristic but just enough.

Rapa Nui/Easter Island/Isla de Pascua

Rapa Nui is a Polynesian island where a unique and sophisticated culture developed. The moai, carved from basalt, were created to honor ancestors and chiefs, representing spiritual and political power called mana. By the 17th century, the culture suffered from overpopulation and resource depletion (mainly trees) which led to conflicts and decline. Europeans from Chile began to arrive in 1722. The brought leprosy and took many natives including tribal leaders in their slave raids. Many of the past stories were lost with them.

It is worth the time to take a full day tour and learn the history.

Anakena Beach

Hanga Tetenga

You can see this one is still connected to the bedrock and will be later cut away then the maoi will be moved.

Once carving is complete and separated from the bedrock, they were moved through the valleys and then lowered into a pit until they could be transported elsewhere.

The maoi were carved for people who were important. Slaves did not do the carving, they were paid craftsmen

These relics showed maoi that were knocked over most likely by warring klans. The red scoria rock was used for the topknots (hair).

Ahu Tongariki

These maoi were toppled by a tsunami. A Japanese crane company owner donated a crane and a lot of money to restore the maoi.

Ahu Akahanga

Warriors slept near the entrance and older and children were at the ends.

To store water for crops, stones were used to trap moisture

Moai cultural dance at Te Moana

We had dinner at a restaurant that also has a cultural show. The dancers and singers were very talented and told the story of a king who dies, a moai statue is made and he receives eternal power.

A walk through town reveals other maoi.

Santiago, Chile

We arrived in Santiago, Chile on my birthday. In Peru before I boarded they allowed people over 60 to board first. That is a great present in itself! I handed out chocolates to people on the plane and was rewarded with a glass of wine and some standard plane snacks…

At the hotel, I gave gifts of chocolate and I had a plate of truffles and chocolate covered strawberries.

Always fun when you run into people from school unexpectedly in your second country of your trip….

It was great to see Lorelei on the street

Not much was open on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day which gave us time to enjoy the sights without many crowds. We are glad to be in a bigger hotel (with a pool).

Fuente neptuna

Sculpture park

Museo de arte bello

Forest Park

Funicular to the summit of San Cristobal Hill.

Bonus, discount for those over 60…

Some sights around Santiago

Parroquia de la Veracruz in Lastarria

For dinner on Christmas Day I had the Chilean version of crab cake in a bowl with lots of melted cheese. Pretty tasty…

Tomorrow I leave for Easter island (Isla de Pascua or Rapa Nui).

Cusco

Cusco was the heart of the Inca Empire from the 13th to the 16th century. After the Spanish conquest in 1533, Cusco became a colonial city. Its Inca foundations were added to with European influences, which are seen in its baroque churches and plazas. What is interesting is after a devastating earthquake, 30% of all of the Spanish builds collapsed but only one block of Incan blocks cracked.

Views around Cusco.

We took a city tour to look at local Incan ruins.

This was used to determine the winter solstice in June. It still shows direct sunlight for 20 min on June 21.

The rainbow (arcois) Temple. All 3 Windows line up perfectly.

So how does Incan architecture work so well. Internally there are female and male stones that fit perfectly. This is a female stone.

Unfortunately baby llamas didn’t drink all day just for photo ops.

Saksaywaman was an Incan temple complex that was renamed after conquest by the Spaniards. It means eagles feasting due to the amount of dead bodies from the battles. The Spaniards dismantled the Incan temples to cut the blocks and make churches instead.

Q’enqo is a mausoleum for the dead. The dunes below are super cold. The platform is used for disemboweling and stuffing the insides with plants while the cubicle spaces are used for storing remains. The flat stone is many degrees cooler than the surroundings.

Tambomachay is a place for rest from runners. These people delivered news between incan villages. The springs and spaces provided rest.

Puma pucara was a place to check in when moving between incan villages. This was found where the road separated in 4 different ways.

On the 23rd started the Christmas markets here. Some great artists and also selling typical wares.

This cool dog came up to me, sat down and leaned against me. I tried to feed him but he just wanted attention.

On the last night we also took a cooking class. Always a lot of fun.

We started out making a pisco sour, the drink that originated in Peru.

Alpaca meat with roasted potatoes and chimichurri sauce

Local fruits with cheromoya cream sauce.

Dried aborted alpaca used in ceremonies.

The Incan developed a way of freeze drying potatoes for preservation. The resulting dishes had nutrients but not much taste .

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu, is a masterpiece surrounded by breathtaking mountains. It was built in the mid-15th century during the reign of Emperor Pachacuti. It is high in the Andes, and is a testament to the Incan architecture and use of agriculture including aqueducts for water flow through the city.

The town was abandoned in the 16th century during the Spanish conquest when the people fled to Vilcabamba (the Spaniards destroyed that city). The Incans destroyed a portion of the Incan trail so Machu Picchu could not be found. A farmer later found it but did not realize its importance. It remained largely hidden until American explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered it in 1911. The terraces for agriculture and temple foundations were intact.

The route to get there seemed complicated but actually was quite easy though long. After 1.5 hr van ride on windy roads, followed by a 1.5 hr train ride with spectacular scenery, the final 25 min to the site from Aguas Caliente was with it. It truly is a beautiful place to visit.

The trapezoid shape of the windows provided strength from settling.

Pools of water were used to magnify the sun and determine the solstices and the equinoxes.

Temple. The largest stones were often used for the most important buildings

After 2.5 hours of exploring we took the bus back to Agua Caliente to have a delicious lunch and walk around. Then followed the 1.5 hr train ride and 1.5 hr van ride to return to Cusco. A magnificent but long day.

Lima

I arrived late at night in Lima and had almost two full days to investigate. I stayed in the hotel Continental Lima in the central historic district. Beautiful area. The traffic on some streets is horrible but similar in other cities.

The next morning I walked to Miraflores which is along the Pacific. Along the way I snapped pictures and visited shops. The Spanish architecture always is amazing.

Finally I made it to Miraflores and walked along the malecón along the ocean. The whole trip was a nice walk through neighborhoods. I love to people watch and look at architecture.

I then walked along the malecón towards love park.

There was an Incan archaeological sure nearby called Sitio Huaca Pucllana.

Earlier in the day I decided to join a night tour. Even though Lima is much safer than Quito, I would not go to some places myself late at night. Darwin was a Spanish guide (I decided to do the tour in Spanish to up my language skills. He was a great tour guide, letting me stop for a pisco sour which was invented here and listen to some Christmas music.

https://youtube.com/shorts/XrjyKTMFroQ?si=GxTMhEBIrWeYd4ZF

We also viewed a local artist show depicting the birth of Jesus

The plaza mayor de Lima

During Independence Day this fountain spouts Pisco sour instead of water. People can bring a cup!

From the 16th to the 19th centuries, a distinctive tradition emerged among women known as the “tapadas limeñas.” These women wore a unique ensemble that allowed them to move through the city with a degree of anonymity and freedom uncommon for women of that era. They could interact in public spaces without being easily recognized which gave independence and social mobility.

Despite attempts by authorities and the Catholic Church to prohibit this practice—viewing it as morally and socially disruptive—the tradition

Today, the legacy of the tapadas limeñas is remembered as a unique aspect of Lima’s cultural history, symbolizing a period when women cleverly navigated societal constraints to assert their presence and autonomy in public life.

The oldest bar in Lima and they make a great Pisco sour!

And now on to the catacombs below the Basilica and Convent. Unfortunately pictures are not allowed.

Next on the tour we went to the Magic Water Show. More than just lights with water, they superimposed moving pictures. Pretty stunning.

The next morning I walked around to do a little shopping.

Bonus little Christmas parade to enjoy before checking out of the hotel:

https://youtube.com/shorts/Ad2G8d_dSoY?si=0z5J3Wjk49GJ57TU

Next stop Cusco and Machu Picchu!

Guayasamín

Oswaldo Guayasamín was a renowned Ecuadorian painter and sculptor. His work focused on themes of social justice, human suffering, and oppression. His art was heavily influenced by the struggles of marginalized communities in Latin America, but also included global injustices from Asia. Guayasamín’s works are characterized by intense emotion, bold colors, and expressive forms, often depicting anguish and resilience and focusing on facial expressions and hands.

On his property is his house which is filled with pre-colombian artifacts and paintings from other artists around the world. He also created La Capilla del Hombre (The Chapel of Man) which is a museum dedicated to his art and a tribute to the human spirit. Both buildings stand on his property which was donated to Ecuador.

Various emotions of war. Notice the coffin shape creating a background.

His unfinished ceiling in the chapel. He died before its completion.

I watched a video of the artist creating this painting and he is truly an artist. He did not work with brushes,
rather a palette knife instead.

Cuenca

I went to Cuenca for another trip. Such a beautiful city here in Ecuador. Quiet and safe. Washing around there are many beautiful buildings and views.

I also wanted to find Christmas decorations.

This time in Cuenca I visited a few museums. One was devoted to fiber arts here in South America. Beautiful works made of fibers.

We took a half day tour to some of the areas in Cajas national park.

On the way back to Cuenca we asked the driver to put on the party lights (we were in a bus that also is used as a party bus). Of course we had a dance party on the bus. Pretty fun.

I also visited the municipal museum of Cuenca.

Other views of Cuenca.

I found a shop that made homemade hot chocolate. I watched Home Alone in Spanish while I drank the chocolate

The Pumapungo museum is an area with Incan ruins, artifacts, and a refuge for birds.

Loja, Ecuador

Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.

It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.” It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.

Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.