Cusco

Cusco was the heart of the Inca Empire from the 13th to the 16th century. After the Spanish conquest in 1533, Cusco became a colonial city. Its Inca foundations were added to with European influences, which are seen in its baroque churches and plazas. What is interesting is after a devastating earthquake, 30% of all of the Spanish builds  collapsed but only one block of Incan blocks cracked.

Views around Cusco.

Nativity scene
Alpaca meat. This was delicious.

We took a city tour to look at local Incan ruins.

Center square
This was used to determine the winter solstice in June. It still shows direct sunlight for 20 min on June 21.
The rainbow (arcois) Temple. All 3 Windows line up perfectly.
So how does Incan architecture work so well. Internally there are female and male stones that fit perfectly. This is a female stone.
Male stone
The smallest male stone. Cue laughter
Unfortunately baby llamas didn’t drink all day just for photo ops.

Saksaywaman was an Incan temple complex that was renamed after conquest by the Spaniards. It means eagles feasting due to the amount of dead bodies from the battles. The Spaniards dismantled the Incan temples to cut the blocks and make churches instead.

White Jesus statue
Panoramic view of cusco

Q’enqo is a mausoleum for the dead. The dunes below are super cold. The platform is used for disemboweling and stuffing the insides with plants while the cubicle spaces are used for storing remains. The flat stone is many degrees cooler than the surroundings.

Tambomachay is a place for rest from runners. These people delivered news between incan villages. The springs and spaces provided rest.

Puma pucara was a place to check in when moving between incan villages. This was found where the road separated in 4 different ways.

On the 23rd started the Christmas markets here. Some great artists and also selling typical wares.

This cool dog came up to me, sat down and leaned against me. I tried to feed him but he just wanted attention.

On the last night we also took a cooking class. Always a lot of fun.

We started out making a pisco sour, the drink that originated in Peru.
Ceviche. Yum!
Alpaca meat with roasted potatoes and chimichurri sauce
Local fruits with cheromoya cream sauce.
The mercado
Dried aborted alpaca used in ceremonies.
Peruvian breads flat due to altitude.
Other breads.
The Incan developed a way of freeze drying potatoes for preservation. The resulting dishes had nutrients but not much taste .

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu, is a masterpiece surrounded by breathtaking mountains. It was built in the mid-15th century during the reign of Emperor Pachacuti. It is high in the Andes, and is a testament to the Incan architecture and use of agriculture including aqueducts for water flow through the city.

The town was abandoned in the 16th century during the Spanish conquest when the people fled to Vilcabamba (the Spaniards destroyed that city). The Incans destroyed a portion of the Incan trail so Machu Picchu could not be found. A farmer later found it but did not realize its importance.  It remained  largely hidden until American explorer Hiram Bingham rediscovered it in 1911. The terraces for agriculture and temple foundations were intact.

The route to get there seemed complicated but actually was quite easy though long. After 1.5 hr van ride on windy roads, followed by a 1.5 hr train ride with spectacular scenery, the final 25 min to the site from Aguas Caliente was with it. It truly is a beautiful place to visit.

Getting ready to board the train.
Nevado Verónica in the Andes
Agua caliente town
Orchid
The trapezoid shape of the windows provided strength from settling.
Pools of water were used to magnify the sun and determine the solstices and the equinoxes.
Temple. The largest stones were often used for the most important buildings

After 2.5 hours of exploring we took the bus back to Agua Caliente to have a delicious lunch and walk around. Then followed the 1.5 hr train ride and 1.5 hr van ride to return to Cusco. A magnificent but long day.

Lima

I arrived late at night in Lima and had almost two full days to investigate. I stayed in the hotel Continental Lima in the central historic district. Beautiful area. The traffic on some streets is horrible but similar in other cities.

The next morning I walked to Miraflores which is along the Pacific. Along the way I snapped pictures and visited shops. The Spanish architecture always is amazing.

Real Plaza Centro Civico

Finally I made it to Miraflores and walked along the malecón along the ocean. The whole trip was a nice walk through neighborhoods. I love to people watch and look at architecture.

Parque de Chino

I then walked along the malecón towards love park.

There was an Incan archaeological sure nearby called Sitio Huaca Pucllana.

Earlier in the day I decided to join a night tour. Even though Lima is much safer than Quito, I would not go to some places myself late at night. Darwin was a Spanish guide (I decided to do the tour in Spanish to up my language skills. He was a great tour guide, letting me stop for a pisco sour which was invented here and listen to some Christmas music.

https://youtube.com/shorts/XrjyKTMFroQ?si=GxTMhEBIrWeYd4ZF

Iglesia de la Merced

We also viewed a local artist show depicting the birth of Jesus

The plaza mayor de Lima

During Independence Day this fountain spouts Pisco sour instead of water. People can bring a cup!

From the 16th to the 19th centuries, a distinctive tradition emerged among women known as the “tapadas limeñas.” These women wore a unique ensemble that allowed them to move through the city with a degree of anonymity and freedom uncommon for women of that era. They could interact in public spaces without being easily recognized which gave independence and social mobility.

Despite attempts by authorities and the Catholic Church to prohibit this practice—viewing it as morally and socially disruptive—the tradition

Today, the legacy of the tapadas limeñas is remembered as a unique aspect of Lima’s cultural history, symbolizing a period when women cleverly navigated societal constraints to assert their presence and autonomy in public life.

The oldest bar in Lima and they make a great Pisco sour!

And now on to the catacombs below the Basilica and Convent. Unfortunately pictures are not allowed.

Next on the tour we went to the Magic Water Show. More than just lights with water, they superimposed moving pictures. Pretty stunning.

The next morning I walked around to do a little shopping.

Park to honor naval heroes.

Bonus little Christmas parade to enjoy before checking out of the hotel:

https://youtube.com/shorts/Ad2G8d_dSoY?si=0z5J3Wjk49GJ57TU

Next stop Cusco and Machu Picchu!

Guayasamín

Oswaldo Guayasamín was a renowned Ecuadorian painter and sculptor. His work focused on themes of social justice, human suffering, and oppression. His art was heavily influenced by the struggles of marginalized communities in Latin America, but also included global injustices from Asia. Guayasamín’s works are characterized by intense emotion, bold colors, and expressive forms, often depicting anguish and resilience and focusing on facial expressions and hands.

On his property is his house which is filled with pre-colombian artifacts and paintings from other artists around the world. He also created La Capilla del Hombre (The Chapel of Man) which is a museum dedicated to his art and a tribute to the human spirit. Both buildings stand on his property which was donated to Ecuador.

Various emotions of war. Notice the coffin shape creating a background.
His unfinished ceiling in the chapel. He died before its completion.
Flame dedicated to the human spirit.
I watched a video of the artist creating this painting and he is truly an artist. He did not work with brushes,
rather a palette knife instead.

Cuenca

I went to Cuenca for another trip. Such a beautiful city here in Ecuador. Quiet and safe. Washing around there are many beautiful buildings and views.

I also wanted to find Christmas decorations.

This time in Cuenca I visited a few museums. One was devoted to fiber arts here in South America. Beautiful works made of fibers.

We took a half day tour to some of the areas in Cajas national park.

The highest chocolate shoppe.

On the way back to Cuenca we asked the driver to put on the party lights (we were in a bus that also is used as a party bus). Of course we had a dance party on the bus. Pretty fun.

I also visited the municipal museum of Cuenca.

Other views of Cuenca.

A little Christmas market.
I found a shop that made homemade hot chocolate. I watched Home Alone in Spanish while I drank the chocolate

The Pumapungo museum is an area with Incan ruins, artifacts, and a refuge for birds.

Loja, Ecuador

Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.

It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.”  It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.

Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.

A flashmob thriller dance in the airport.
Our Airbnb is above here in El panacillo.
View when walking early morning
This old deteriorating car was interesting
Two entwined birds sculpture
Loja city letters near the gate to the city
The gate to the city
The gate from the other side
The thinker… Ecuadorian style
View from the gate into the city
View from the top tower of the gate
Outside the tower we saw the city tour bus. We were able to get on the tour and see buildings we would want to go back to
An obelisk in a round about
Simón Bolívar park
For día de los muertos, they sell colada morada and guagua de pan. It is a sweet fruit and corn flour drink. The bread is filled with a lightly sweet filling. I did go back to get a bread later. This photo taken from the top of the city tour bus.
Catholic cathedral.
Today was día de los muertos and the service is in honor of family members.
Independence square also known as San Sebastián square.
Plaza de San Francisco
Inside the music museum.
Calle de los Lourdes.
View from the top of El panecillo looking towards the historical district.

One morning I climbed to the top of one mirador to see views of the city.

We also walked to Parque Jiripa where there are many activities for families. After peddling the swan boat we walked around a bit.

Then we went in search for food at the Cueva de cangrejos (Crab cave). Delicious!

Vilcabamba day trip from Loja

On the way to Vilcabamba was the parque podocarpus.

Parque Podocarpus

Parque Nacional Podocarpus, often referred to as the “Botanical Garden of America,” runs across the provinces of Loja and Zamora-Chinchipe. It is best k own for its incredible biodiversity, the park covers an impressive 1,500 square kilometers and varies in altitude from 900 to 3,600 meters (3,000 to 11,800 feet). This allows many diverse ecosystems to exist: lowland tropical forests to high-altitude páramos. The views here are amazing.

The park’s name comes from the Podocarpus tree, which is a type of conifer found in the cloud forests.

There are around 4,000 species of plants, many of which are rare or endemic. These include orchids, ferns, and giant bromeliads.

Unfortunately, we didn’t much wildlife, but somewhere there are spectacled bear, mountain tapir, and giant armadillo.  We did see one bird, an Andean guan.

A snack along the way

We stopped along the way to try some bread called bizcochuelo. It is much like a slightly sweet and a little drier spring cake. Paired with some sugar cane juice with naranjilla added to cut the sweetness.

Malacatos

We stopped to look at the church here and wander around to stretch our legs. I saw some coca cola flavored Oreos and had to try them! Yes, they had a hint of coca cola flavor and we’re quite tasty

Vilcabamba

This small town has a reputation for longevity among its residents. The name “Vilcabamba” comes from the indigenous Quechua language, meaning “Sacred Valley.” Now many expats and retirees live here and it draws international visitors who are interested in wellness, alternative medicine, and spirituality.

Yes, the water was very cold but maybe this imparts longevity too?
Sopa verde. Very fresh with peas.
Pescado. Excellent fish!
We were serenaded by a street musician.

We had time afterwards to peruse the shops and street vendors. Before we knew it, it was time to return to Loja

The start of my last year of teaching

It has been an interesting start of the year here in Ecuador. We have  just now finished the first quarter of the year. Here is a recap.

Our bus stop was robbed early in the morning in the first week. American women are feisty: throwing hot tea in their face and running around. Pretty scary but we were glad they did not have a gun and didn’t stick around long. They didn’t get anything from us but did take a phone from another friend.

A historic drought has left power disruption here in Ecuador. All of their power is hydroelectric. There have been power cuts up to 14 hours a day and though it took a little time to adjust, one can make the most of time without power. I have been walking with a weighted backpack for an extra workout and to get used to walking with a full pack. Timing showers and laundry means being flexible and I am glad I have a gas stove. Making sure anything you want to do on the phone is downloaded and everything is charged. Recently I put up my Christmas tree with 4 strands of battery operated lights. It helps to illuminate and not use as many candles. I look for any excuse to put up the tree but it was a good choice!

Mindo

The annual bike ride to Mindo was in September. I didn’t ride, but instead went there to hang out with others. I stayed at the biohostal and could watch birds from the veranda.

One activity I have not done here is to hike the waterfalls

It was a beautiful 9 km hike!

On the way back out I met one of my colleagues Nadine. Many people from my school came to mindo that weekend.
The megaswing that was quite a lot of fun.

Mindo night hike

This is another hike I wanted to do in Mindo. I did get to see a glass frog but no reptiles.

Centipede
Glass frog with the light above.
Glass frog with the light below.
This bird is called Rufus mutt mutt. It’s the only bird here that eats poisonous things.

I have been really lax in writing about things. It is like every start of a school year where there is a lot going on. I am looking forward to more relaxing times ahead.

Get togethers

Watching the presidential debate together.

Swan lake ballet

Celebrating Monica and Paul’s wedding

Get together in the Historical district

Family

I usually only come home once a year and then spend time traveling between family members. Here in PA there were some hikes, bike rides, and fun runs (walks for me).

Most of the time it is Sunni and I trying to stay out of trouble…

Stop at Brady’s bend after lunch with Mom

I spent one day with my friend Michele Belak which started with a morning race and ended with an evening race on the trails here in PA. In between we drove back and forth and stopped to see her horse. It was good to catch up with her. In the past, we used to meet at several races over the summer. It was great to catch up with her and hear about the people we worked with at Citizens Ambulance when we were in college.

One night Ryan and I rode bikes in an event called critical mass. Over 100 people participated in a 24 mile ride through the streets of Pittsburgh. The point is to take back the roads from cars and bring awareness that bikes have rights also. Here we are headed to the start of the ride.

Ryan  and I also hiked some trails near Kittanning. They are small trails but very quiet and peaceful.

Afterwards we biked through the city of Pittsburgh from the north side to the south side along the trails and the rivers.

In front of the fountain at the point

Another road trip was to take my dad’s ashes to Buffalo and Erie. We visited the graves of my grandparents and stopped to see Duann, a friend from childhood.

Lake Erie

An event in Pittsburgh called picklesburgh also took place. Fun having some pickle egg rolls, pickle fudge, and other things.

And of course I played with everyone’s cats. This is the baby of Sunni’s and is a Maine coon.

Some random pictures from Western Pennsylvania.

Nashville

The Thelma Sunni and Louise road trip this year was to Nashville. We stopped in Glasgow, Kentucky to see relatives of Sunni and then headed to Nashville the next morning.

The first stop was at Cooters Nashville. It is a museum to the Dukes of Hazzard, a TV series from the 1970’s. Fun! The General Lee was parked out front.

Our hotel was close to Broadway where all the honky tonks are found.

One of the favorite places for sunni to eat was Margaritaville.

One of our favorites was the John Bon Jovi bar where there was a constant stream of amateur musicians playing.

The Johnny Cash museum was really good. My family listened to his music when I was growing up. So many memories and it even included remembrances of all the people he toured with and were part of his production team. Even June Carter’s family was honored. 

Fried deviled eggs were on the menu at his bar next door. Delicious and the music from the musicians was amazing.

Of course we had to stop at Coyote Ugly. The bar famous for the movie.

The night pontoon boat ride was really fun. Lots of games and people to talk to.

The chew crew are sheep who mow down the edges of the river Bank

Other pictures from around Nashville.

Morning walk along the Cumberland
The chew crew
Ryman auditorium
At the top of the pedestrian bridge.
The Bluff Station was a lookout when the river was used for trade.

One morning I went to the Tennessee State House. It is beautiful inside.

Senate chambers
Pres. Polk and his wife are buried here

It was a great road trip!