My friend Helen wanted to go for the day to Hong Kong to buy a new phone and i joined her so we could have lunch somewhere new! I also wanted to take the ferry to get back to Guangzhou.
The first year i was in China i made the comment that i had been to Hong Kong 6 times and that i was eager to go somewhere else instead….. Who would know COVID allowed that to happen. Now I’m back. So was everyone else as it was a holiday weekend (Labor Day in China).
It had been some time but a stroll from west Kowloon down along the water was beautiful.
We walked along sheung wan where street art is but I am slow with stairs still.
We found a nice restaurant for brunch.
Afterwards we went to find the ferry as there is only one cruise time. Walking around we found a noodle museum and shop.
We decorated cups then chose our original mixture for the noodle soup. Mine included laksa soup base and even papaya!
I was only going a day but it was great to have a break from the normal week and the rest of China. Only a couple months left in China….
There are many things to do in Siem Reap but i needed to give my knee a break and many other activities required biking or more walking. I was happy to find a cooking class on Trip featuring two dishes i have ordered frequently in Cambodia: Fish Amok and green mango salad. A tuktuk picked me up at my hotel (a guarantee people arrive on time….) And a quick stop down the alley.
Narong is my chef and she works for a restaurant owned by a French gentleman who has been here for 13 years.
He owns the restaurant and the cooking school which also sells many of the ingredients. Helpful since I want to make it when I return home.
We started with a tour of the old market. Many items i already know from China wet markets. But we discussed different things useful to cook here differences in produce.
We started by chopping all of the ingredients. The cooking takes little time but the preparation is much longer as all of the ingredients are fresh. The recipes can be found at www.khmergourmetcookingclass.com
And now it is time to cook. I even made dessert. Glutinous rice balls with a palm sugar filling. They are boiled in hot water then cooled in cook water.
And then it was time to eat. Lots of food so some leftovers for lunch tomorrow. Asking with a great Angkor beer, a wonderful lunch.
Angkor Wat is actually a temple complex located in Siem Reap, Cambodia. It is the largest religious monument in the world and one of the seven wonders. The temple was built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century as a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu. It was later converted into a Buddhist temple in the 13th century.
Angkor Wat is a vast complex of buildings and monuments, covering an area of over 400 acres. The temple itself is built on a rectangular plan, with a moat and an outer wall surrounding the central complex. The tallest of the towers inside is 65 meters high.
Angkor Wat is a masterpiece of Khmer architecture. Ancient volcanoes left large amounts of volcanic stone which are used as the base of the buildings. The tops are made of sandstone which allows them to be carved. The temple is decorated with intricate carvings and sculptures, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The temple is also known for its intricate system of canals and reservoirs, which once provided water for the temple and its inhabitants.
I have so many pictures but shared just the best ones. It is an impressive place to visit. Also, it was amazing to see some of the reconstruction and cleaning of the stones. From the Angkor Temple we continued along the complex to Bayon temple.
The Bayon is a richly decorated Khmer temple related to Buddhism at Angkor. It was built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the state temple of the King Jayavarman VII. It is at the centre of the king’s capital, Angkor Thom.
The Bayon is best known for its 54 towers, each of which has at the top a four-faced head. The faces are believed to represent AvalokiteÅ›vara, the bodhisattva of compassion. (Bodhisattva are awaiting their reincarnation as Buddha). The faces are all slightly different, and they are said to represent the different aspects of AvalokiteÅ›vara’s personality.
The Bayon temple is also decorated with intricate carvings called bas-reliefs, which depict scenes from Hindu and Buddhist mythology. The bas-reliefs are some of the most famous examples of Khmer art. I haven’t seen other art, but I’ll take their opinion. They are amazing and depict scenes of daily life, good vs. evil stories, etc.
We then traveled to another temple in the complex. Ta Prohm was built in the late 12th and early 13th centuries and was originally called Rajavihara. It is one of the most popular temples at Angkor, partly because it was featured in the 2001 film Lara Croft: Tomb Raider. The guide said that Angkor Wat was largely unknown by the world until then.
Ta Prohm is known for its intricate stone carvings, which are often hidden by the roots of the trees that have grown around the temple. The temple is also home to a variety of wildlife, including monkeys, snakes, and birds.
Baksei Chamkrong is a small Hindu temple located in the Angkor complex. We passed by it walking up the hill where we were to watch the sunset. It is dedicated to Shiva and used to hold a golden image of him.
The temple is named after a mythical bird that is said to have protected the city of Angkor from attack. The bird is said to have spread its wings over the city, and to have sheltered the people from harm.
We waited for the sunset and literally melted wherever we rested. It had been nearly 40 C which is 100 F with high humidity. I was grateful for the rest considering I needed to rest my knee from time to time. The slow ascent made it easier to get to the top of the hill.
The sunset was okay as there were clouds in the horizon.
Our tour guide Sarak shared some other pictures he had taken during sunrises and sunsets.
The Killing Fields are a series of sites in Cambodia where collectively more than one million people were killed and buried by the Khmer Rouge regime during its rule of the country from 1975 to 1979. The mass killings were part of a broad state-sponsored genocide.
The Khmer Rouge was a communist regime led by Pol Pot that ruled Cambodia during those years. The regime was responsible for the deaths of an estimated 2 million people (some from starvation), or about a quarter of the Cambodian population. The Khmer Rouge was known for its brutality and its radical policies, which included the forced relocation of the entire population of Cambodia to the countryside.
Once in the countryside, they were forced to be farmers. They eliminated all forms of religion and destroyed the country’s infrastructure. Workers in the country were then asked if they had been a professional. They believed they were going back to their jobs. Instead they were interrogated as potential spies and foreign agents and imprisoned and brutalized. Many “confessed” and were asked for family and friends names. There was more than one prison but the one I toured was S21. It is the site of a high school turned into a prison.
The bottom floor of that building held important prisoners who could give information. They were shackled to beds.
If one member of the family was suspected of being a traitor, the whole family was tortured and sent to the killing fields. His regime kept meticulous records and pictures of everyone interrogated and killed.
If they survived starvation, torture, and hard labor, they were trucked to the killing fields. They were not imprisoned there, but one by one taken off of the trucks and killed.
The most well-known Killing Field is Choeung Ek, located just 10 kilometers outside of Phnom Penh. Choeung Ek was used as an execution site for the Khmer Rouge from 1975 to 1979. It is estimated that over 17,000 people were killed at Choeung Ek, including men, women, children, and the elderly. A farmer found the site days after the fall of the regime and pits had not even been covered at the time the regime fled.
The execution tree at Choeung Ek was a site where the Khmer Rouge executed children. The tree was a large Chankiri tree, and the Khmer Rouge would use it to bash the heads of children against the trunk of the tree. The children were often killed in front of their parents, and the parents were forced to watch as their children were killed. The execution tree was a symbol of the brutality of the Khmer Rouge, and it is a reminder of the horrors that the Khmer Rouge inflicted on the people of Cambodia.
Today, Choeung Ek is a memorial to the victims of the Khmer Rouge. The Buddhist stupa contains the remains of over 8,000 victims.
Visiting the Killing Fields was a sobering experience. It is a reminder of the horrors of genocide and the importance of remembering the victims. It is also a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit, as evidenced by the fact that Cambodia has emerged from this dark period and is now a thriving democracy. Three survivors were at the genocide museum the day I went.
Finally, it is important to remember that the Killing Fields are just one part of Cambodia’s history. The country has come a long way since the Khmer Rouge, and there is much to see and do in Cambodia today.
Here are a few things those of us on the tour talked about (we had people from S. Africa, Australia, and many European countries). The Khmer Rouge regime and people denying past slavery in the west are similar in a number of ways. Both groups have sought to erase or deny a dark chapter in their history. Both groups have used violence and intimidation to silence dissent. And both groups have been met with resistance from those who seek to remember and learn from the past.
One of the Khmer Rouge’s most heinous crimes was its attempt to erase the country’s history. The regime destroyed libraries, museums, and other cultural institutions. It also killed or imprisoned intellectuals, artists, and anyone else who it perceived as a threat to its power. The Khmer Rouge sought to create a new society, one that was free from the taint of the past.
People who deny past slavery in the west are also seeking to erase a dark chapter in history. These people often claim that slavery was not as bad as it is often portrayed, or that it was a necessary evil. They may also argue that the victims of slavery were not really slaves, or that they were somehow complicit in their own enslavement.
Like the Khmer Rouge, people who deny past slavery are often motivated by a desire to create a new society, one that is free from the taint of the past. They may also be motivated by a desire to protect their own privilege. By denying the existence of slavery, they can avoid having to confront the uncomfortable truth about their own history.
By erasing the truth, they make it easier to repeat the same mistakes in the future. It is important to remember and learn from the past, so that we can prevent such atrocities from happening again.
It is also important to remember that the victims of the Khmer Rouge and of slavery are real people. They deserve to be remembered and honored. We should not let the perpetrators of these crimes get away with erasing their victims from history.
I am also aware that those of us on the tour are privileged and our governments have done horrible things. But we are also a portion of our countries who learn to understand and make a difference rather than ignore it.
I have not been to Cambodia and finally had a chance to do so!
Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, is definitely a city of contrasts. It is an always busy metropolis with a rich history and culture. The city is home to ancient temples, French colonial architecture, and modern skyscrapers. Phnom Penh is also a city of poverty and hardship. You can be in a very luxurious area and then within a few steps into a different type of world within the same neighborhood). The scars of the Khmer Rouge regime are still evident in the city, and many people live in poverty. There are still many who lived through and know the stories.
Despite its challenges, Phnom Penh is a vibrant and exciting city. The people are friendly and welcoming, and there is always something to do. Whether you are interested in history, culture, food, or nightlife, Phnom Penh has something to offer. The hospitality of people here remind me of Thailand. It is walkable but very cheap to go around by tuk tuks.
I chose the Plantation Urban Resort and Spa particularly for the pools and what the hotel looked like. I planned for no more than three hours of exploring each day and the rest of the time for just relaxing.
There are quite a few markets. The one for the locals is the Old Market. It was interesting to see people coming together for food, entertainment, and buying goods. I met up with my friends Darcie and Habib for dinner and to tour the market.
The next day I spent most of the day in and by the pool. Great for rehab. I walked to Wat Phnom which is a Buddhist temple (wat). Some of the sights along the way:
Phnom Wat is the oldest religious monument in the city and is considered to be the spiritual heart of Phnom Penh. The temple is located on a small hill, hence the name “Wat Phnom” which means “Hill Temple” in Khmer.
The temple was built in 1372 by a woman named Penh who found four Buddha statues floating in the Mekong River. She built a small shrine to house the statues on the hill, and over time the shrine grew into a temple. The temple was closed (stairs are not my thing right now anyway).
I took a sunset cruise on the Mekong to see the sunset from the water. Very relaxing and a great way to cool off from weather almost 100F.
Tomorrow i plan to visit the killing fields and the genocide museum….
I left in winter break 2022 expecting 3 week quarantine to come back with no such demands. This spring break is the first vacation where I left knowing the pandemic was “over” and this time there was not a big production and requirements for actually leaving China. It reminds me of pre-covid China. Things are definitely looking like normal in China and activities have resumed. We went from everything about down to everything opened in a short period of time.
I had knee surgery 5 weeks ago for an almost completely torn meniscus and other problems with cartilage that had no other option. Besides going to and from school and doctors appointments, I have really not been many places around Guangzhou. I was only given the okay to go on this trip based on the short length of flight and that I promised not to do too much …people who know me know how hard that is. But I want to recover for summer and will be smart about it. That being said, moving slower and always needing to be aware of my limitations wears me out. I have also found i still need to put my foot up even though a week ago I was finally allowed to bend the knee when sitting. It will be another month or two before I can put weight on it when in a bent position.
The metro had people actually not wearing masks. It has been a long time since I was on the metro. (Sometime in the future I’ll comment on my thoughts about all of that.)
That actually was true of the airplane as well. There was not a full flight leaving China perhaps due to the delay in visas for Chinese to leave on vacation.
Landing in another country was so easy. Cambodia is incredibly fast for getting off the plane and to your hotel in short order.
Because of this, it is not easier to travel for me. But I am glad to be able to go somewhere and relax with a little sightseeing.
This was a trip I have wanted to do for some time but it either did not fit into my schedule or there were problems with travel due to COVID-19. Even though this trip is 12 hours after landing back in China after almost a month traveling, i felt it was the right time to go. I wasn’t ready to be back in my apartment and still have a bit over two weeks before school starts.
After arriving I went to the Gaozhuang night market. I but too crowded for me so I bought some food on the streets of the village and then wandered back to the hotel. This area is close to the Laos, Myanmar, and Thailand border with China.
We visited the Botanical garden which included jungle trails.
We visited a Dai village. This is one of the ethnic minorities here in China. They follow the Buddhist tradition and their housing styles are similar to Thai.
Wild elephant valley is a preserve where the wild Asian elephants still roam. They actually travel between here and Laos and if lucky you can see one. I was glad we did. Here is a link to video as well: https://youtu.be/a2xod6R_N2E
We traveled to Manzhang village which is another Dai village.
Manting Park is the oldest styles of architecture and also history of the local royal family which ended rein in 1950’s. The oldest temple is here.
Afterwards, our last stop was a hike through the Nannuo tea mountain forest and to try some tea. This village is the Hani people, another ethnic minority.
Another morning in China and I think I made the right decision to go elsewhere in the world. There are things I love about China and the people here but many I will not miss. Immigration coming back in was longer with more questions despite having four consecutive years of visas and proof of where I work. It wasn’t this difficult fine years ago. Some people will watch videos while in nature with the volume set to high, they are unaware of where they are in relation to others and unconcerned if they block paths, and there is just so many people when traveling. It sounds like I am just complaining but haber heard that from other nationalities when I travel. Of course, I am aware that I most likely do things that people don’t like when I travel, but this discussion is most likely best suited for a future post.
National Museum has many spaces going back thousands of years. It is interesting to look at the sculptures and see the change in detail just within another century.
Ganesh(a) is the elephant-headed Hindu god of beginnings, who is traditionally worshipped before any major enterprise and is the patron of intellectuals, bankers, scribes, and authors. He is also attributed to scientists. I actually love looking at statues of this good before I knew what he stood for.
Keris is an asymmetrical dagger and it’s used in birth to death ceremonies as well as protection. The hilt of the sword is carved and can contain jewels depending upon status. The person who makes it can also give it mythical powers. It is steeped in mythology and many rituals.
The statue on the left is that of Brahma, the Creator in Hinduism. The biggest feature is the four heads. This statue dates back to the 8th century and is from northern central java.
This is an actual piggyback dating back to the Majapahit empire era around 1293. Called a celengan, which means pig, the primer became aware of saving culture. The pig is a symbol of wealth.
This is the presidential palace in the same area.
A spire of the Istiqial Mosque which is the largest in southeast Asia and the third largest in the world. Most of Indonesia is predominantly Muslim. As we approached, they were giving the call to prayer. In Bali, they are predominantly Hindu.
Directly across the street is the Jakarta Cathedral. Its bells were ringing at the same time. Inside there was a wedding beginning.
We only toured some areas and attractions and focused on looking at three local life and try different foods. Maybe one day I can come back and see other areas like Sumatra….
It didn’t want to leave Flores and the Komodo Islands. I love nature and can find plenty to do in small cities. But we needed to spend a few days in Jakarta to get COVID PCR test to return to China. The hotel had a great pool and I only wanted to go a few places to tour.
We took a half day tour to see old Batavia. This was the capital of the Dutch East Indies along the northeast coat of Java. They took over surrounding kingdoms in these islands in benefit of their trade. It was a European colony for hundreds of years until invasion by Japan. Indonesia gained their independence in 1945. This statue commemorates their independence.
Old style boats that are still being used. Some are designed for cargo and use holds as well as putting cargo on the deck. Others carry passengers.
We stopped for refreshments of Indonesian herbal health drinks. The drinks are very tasty and make from fresh spices.
We visited a puppet maker to learn how he makes these thin puppets from goat skin that are so beautiful and take such time to make. He shared a short example of a puppet play that tells stories of past events in Indonesian history.
These are pictures of the shadow puppet presentation.
At first the dutch recognized the Chinese immigrants as good traders. But at one point the economy could not support more Chinese coming in. They told the Chinese they were going to be taken to an island but instead they were massacred. The red house which was a governor mansion was much later purchased by a Chinese woman and kept as a remembrance.
The end of this cannon is actually a lewd gesture in Indonesian. Much like the middle finger! Today many believe it can help with fertility to give offering and prayer here.
We also went to Chinatown.
Near the hotel was an antique market. I love to look at many of these old things in different countries.
Random walks let us easily see different foods and people on the street.
Breakfast one morning was lontong sayur. Tofu, egg, steamed rice cake, and vegetables in s spicy broth.
While at breakfast could not help but laugh at this guy out the window who danced and mimed. Of course then we gave him money.
I also ordered pete goreng which is fried stink beans. It has a slightly pungent taste but not stinky by any standards. I also ordered tempe. Ordering sambal or spicy sauce on the side makes everything tastier. I really love Asian food especially Indonesian.
East Nusa Tenggara, the pink beach, gets is pink color from the brilliant red coral that degrades when the coral itself dies and the skeleton of calcium carbonate breaks apart. From a distance it is hard to see the pink but at the waters edge of is pretty spectacular.
Next we went to snorkel to look for turtles. Here is where I made my biggest mistakes. It was pretty deep water and I’m not a very strong swimmer. With the current, I could not really pay attention to the camera I had and as a result I did not get the actual footage of the large turtle in front of me which was spectacular. Next time a life vest would give me more peace of mind to attend to the camera. I did get some pictures but the turtle was actually much closer to me after I took them. Though heartbroken I can’t share what I saw when it was literally right in front of me, maybe it was just meant for me to enjoy.
We took a speed boat in to the island. The top of the island is a great panorama viewpoint. The snorkeling was okay but there were incredible large schools of fish. The fish that close to shore are very aggressive and would nip at your legs. It did not hurt but was surprising and over and over became very annoying.
Afterwards we went back to the boat to clean up and have lunch. We had a little time to walk around Labuan Bajo.
We had a flight to Jakarta in mid afternoon. If I were to do it again I would stay another day. A proper shower with warm water would have been appreciated. But we had a lot to plan around and chose the flight back to China earlier based upon the current 8 day quarantine which ended up being changed to no quarantine. We also should not have booked our flight out so early but we were not sure what was going to happen and all indication at the time showed not a loosening of restrictions.