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Tikal, Mayan site

Tikal was one of the most powerful city-states in the ancient Maya civilization dating from 2000 BC to 950 AD. It was a major cultural, political, and military center doing trading and administering to other Mayan cities. Tikal means everyday or common people.

While we were walking through the site, we saw howler and spider monkeys, birds, and an agouti (like a raccoon).

The architecture here is amazing and the site includes pyramids, temples, palaces, and a grand plaza. Everything is symmetrical despite not having advanced tools. Only 20% of the site has been excavated since 1955. It also was first explored in the late 1800’s and officially in 1904.

Blocks were hand cut in quarries and then carried as far as 25 km by hand. No domesticated animals were used for this. They also did not use slaves as too many workers were required. It is thought that everyday people completed the work. There is evidence of early cement being used in construction which has stood the test is time.

Residences here were for high class people which could contain 152 bedrooms and 25 courtyards.

This is actually a need that would be covered by ticking.

The wood above the door is from the local tree that has sap that was used as early chewing gum. It is a very hard wood. Adams chewing gum was the inspiration from the chewing gum from sap here. That piece of wood is 1300 years old.

There are two temples here. Temple 2 is on the left, government offices would be in the middle, and Temple 1 is on the right. They are in a line from North to South.

Temple 2 is known as the temple of masks. The carvings show masks.

Temple 1 actually had a burial site found by tunneling underneath. There are 9 levels of the pyramid which correspond to the 9 levels you descend to the Mayan underworld when you die before going upwards 13 towards heaven.

The astronomical pyramids are flat on top and offer a 360 degree view. Maybe stairs to climb to get to the top!

Pyramid 4 was the last we visited and was built by the son of the ruler that built 1 and 2. Each ruler had to have a bigger Temple than the ones before.

As we passed by the second of the twin astronomical pyramids, this one has not been uncovered on one side, but you can see the structures on the other.

Cisterns were used to capture and divert water when the original sources dried up. Below the modern cement is the earlier mayan cement that had been broken up by tree roots.

The site features numerous stelae and altars depicting rulers portraits and their stories. Information found in Tikal and descendent stories help to understand the Mayan civilization.

Other structures

This is Temple 3 that is still visible at the top and will be excavated in the future. It is the tallest of the pyramids.

Yaxha Mayan site

Yaxhá is a name derived from the Maya language and means “blue-green water” or “turquoise water.” Lake Yaxhá was an important resource for the city though there are many crocodiles there. It is not the largest Mayan site and is very peaceful to walk around in.

The architectural style of the Yaxha people included the double pyramid construction. It was built in 600 BC teaching its peak in the 8th century with around 500 structures. It was discovered by the explorer Maler in 1904.

It felt a lot like being an explorer as well. Many of the structures are still underground and only a few are uncovered. The howler monkeys were really loud and seemed to follow us on our exploration.

Another structure under the grown jungle

Yaxha is laid out so that the temples and other structures are used strategically for solstices and equinoxes.

This center area was where competition in a game using a ball was played. Many of the games could be for social, religious, or political reasons, often ending in sacrifice.

The pyramid of sacrifice is just across the game area.

We climbed the stairs alongside one of the peanuts to get a look at the complex and the tallest pyramid we will be going to.

Pyramid 216, the tallest where you can see the sunset on a good day

This structure was a residence of someone important like a shaman.

We climbed one of the pyramids directly. I learned not to go straight up in a line but to zig zag as you go up. It helps especially if you have big feet.

We climbed stairs alongside pyramid 216.

Beautiful view but no view of the sunset today. Clouds were moving in again.

Flores

After having to go find another way to get to Belize (and my reservation in San Ignacio), I found a shared van for $40 through Gekko explorers. It was a long 12 hour ride in a van with a very eclectic group of foreigners. We stopped three times and had plenty of villages to see from the windows when we were not asleep. We were headed to Flores in the Petén region of Guatemala.

The region was inhabited by the Maya civilization in 1000 BCE. The largest of the Mayan cities were Tikal, Uaxactun, and Yaxha. Two of these ruins are tours I am taking. Around the 9th century, many of the population of the Mayan cities were in decline due to many factors such as overpopulation and warfare.

The Maya in Petén resisted Spanish conquest longer than many other regions. The Itza Maya (near modern-day Flores), remained independent until 1697, when Spanish forces finally conquered them. They became part of New Spain and then part of Guatemala after independence.

At the top of the center hill are basketball and other courts for people to gather.

I found the restaurant, Nativo, which has a great menu I ordered their aguachile with fish and two tamarind margaritas. Delicious and a great place to watch the sunset.

And, of course, lizard watching….

Walking tour and the art museum (MUNAG)

The indigenous history of Antigua primarily involves the Siboney and Arawak peoples, who inhabited the area long before European contact. The Arawaks used farming technique and also pottery in everyday life. These cultures were distinct from the Aztecs and developed their own unique societies and ways of life.

Pre colonial era

In the early 17th century, Spanish influence was bright to this region when present day Guatemala became part of New Spain brought in the present colonial architecture.

The arch

The arch is known as the “Santa Catalina Arch” (Arco de Santa Catalina). It was built in the 17th century and served as a passageway for nuns to cross between the convent and the school without having to go out on the street.

These steps are what remains of the original steps that the nuns used.

The center of colonial cities have a plaza surrounded by a church, government buildings, and the central commerce area.

In the colonial period the arches were made wide and short due to the consistent earthquakes that cause damage.

The art that depicts the colonial period….

Churches and convents were central to education and taking care of others. Many are in ruins but the ruins still remain as part of other structures like hotels.

Churches and other buildings

Guatemala gained independence from Spain on September 15, 1821.

Modern art

Jade museum

They found that ancient people used jade to fill cavities.

Lake Atitlán

I booked only a day tour to Atitlán (it was a 14 hour tour). Many sirens a night or so there but I didn’t. It would be nice to stay there longer, but I actually liked Antigua better.

Along the lake are 4 little towns varying in size but touristy.

Penjachel

We arrived first by van in this town and spent an hour talking amongst ourselves. I practiced my Spanish with two couples from Costa Rica

The other towns are across the lake so we hopped on a side boat and set of for the first town.

San Juan la Laguna

This town is very picturesque and had a nice vibe. We started with a chocolate tour. Instead of joining the guide with the one in English, I stayed with the Spanish group. I also bought some chocolate for cocoa and a bar with chilis in it.

Then we walked to the top of the hill for a weaving demonstration.

I loved the bright colors and how calm the town is.

San Pedro

The next town was a little more active and less colorful.

Santiago Atitlán

This is the biggest of the towns. Very bustling and not quaint or colorful. We stopped for lunch and I was not inspired by the menu so just ordered chips and guacamole. Another woman on the trip, Paula, was on the Pacaya vulcan trip and we walked around together. We were glad that they decided not to keep everyone together but let us explore on our own. We headed out to find good ceviche.

We walked around a little longer to find the church.

After the speed boat ride back it was time for the long van ride back. I think I still made the right choice to spend more time in Antigua and then spend time in Flores.

Pacaya volcano

I took a tour to hike the Pacaya volcano. Pacaya is an active volcano. It has been continuously active since 1965 and the last edition was in 2021. It is one of the most active volcanoes in Central America. It is 2,552 meters (8,373 feet) above sea level. Most of its eruptions are lava flows with some ash plumes, but only a few explosions.

The last eruption still has many fumeroles

You can see the different lava fields from routine over the years.

I was intrigued to view another volcano. There is a bigger one here but did not want an extreme hike. On this volcano trip you have the opportunity to roast marshmallows over a vent in the volcano. One person had reserved a pizza made on the vent as well so we all pooled our money together for a large pizza. It took 10 minutes to cook. They do add wood but the volcanic vent is the start of the fire. A bit pricey for pizza (70 quetzals for 2 pieces which is about $9) but they did bring the ingredients as the way to the top and the cool factor.

After pizza we roasted marshmallows.

A nice tour and had fun talking to others and the guide (in Spanish) followed by sitting in the pool at the hotel to cool off.

On to Antigua, Guatemala

A day after arriving back in Quito from the Galapagos, I was headed to the airport for a 2 week exploration before making it back to the states. The plan was Guatemala, El Salvador, and Belize. But 10 hours before my flight, I received notification that two of my flights were cancelled. Those were the flights going to El Salvador and on to Belize. A flight would not be available until 5 days later but I had other flights to other countries at that time.

Of concern was needing a flight out of Guatemala before I could board the plane. I showed the original itinerary which was accepted and started researching what I would do next.

While at immigration in the airport, there was a 4.2 earthquake with the epicenter close to the airport. A second one followed quickly in Puembo. No damage or injuries and the plane took off on time.

In the end, I found land transport from Antigua to Flores in the north and transport into my next town in Belize. I am okay with how it turned out as it gives me more downtime in Belize and seeing more of Guatemala. After I arrived in Antigua, a rainstorm gave me time to search and book transport.

Antigua

Antigua is a past capital found in the central highlands and surrounded by volcanoes. The architecture is beautiful of both the buildings and the churches. Founded in 1543 it was the capitol until 1773 when there was a damaging earthquake. Many of the buildings were preserved. The buildings are so colorful and the cobblestone streets make the whole city enchanting.

Cemetery (comentario general)

I find cemeteries peaceful and a look into the culture as well.

I loved seeing the school buses which are used as public transport. Each bus is decked out differently.

La recolección architectonic complex

This site was originally a church and convent complex established by the Order of the Recollects in 1701 by the Recollects, a branch of the Franciscan order. The ruins are of the church, convent, and several other buildings there in the Spanish Baroque style.

Like many other buildings in Antigua, the La Recolección complex suffered significant damage from earthquakes especially the one in 1773. Over the years, it was used as a sports center, damaged by people being careless with the structures, and some demolition to prevent unstable walls from collapsing.

At one time a pool was installed in the 20th century. At the center of this pit is tiles that could have been part of the pool.

Isabela island, Galapagos

Isabela Island is the largest island in the Galapagos. Isabela was formed by the merging of six large shield volcanoes: Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin, Ecuador, Sierra Negra, and Wolf. It is relatively young with an estimated age of around 1 million years. It was named after Queen Isabela I from Castile.

Sunrise on Santa Cruz before leaving for Isabela on the ferry

Of the three islands it is pretty chill and a great place to relax.

The island is known for its rich biodiversity, including several species of tortoises, iguanas, penguins, and flightless cormorants.

Las Tintoreras tour

Our guide took us on a boat around the harbor, then on a part of the island that is volcanic rock. From here there are underground tunnels or tubes from flows of lava to snorkel in and see turtles, sharks, and penguins.

I didn’t snorkel but did give my camera to the guide. I might have to come back again since I have found how to move around the islands. Here are some videos from the snorkeling.

Sierra Negra Volcano, which has one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. Its just eruption was in 2018 and each eruption gives valuable information on impact. It is a shield volcano with broad and slow rising slopes and lava flows with less velocity. The caldera is 10 km wide. The volcano collapsed into the caldera and subsequent lava flows have changed the landscape more.

The hike is 16 km total and goes out then back around part of the rim.

The crater where the dome collapsed and lava flows continued after later eruptions

A couple of friends from Quito were also here in the Galapagos

This is actually one of the youngest islands in the Galapagos. Fernandina is only a few kilometers away from Isabela and is one of the most active volcanoes here.

It is amazing to see such different rocks from each kind of lava flow and life here.

Poza de los flamingos

During the early 1900s, the Ecuadorian government used the island as a penal colony, known as Puerto Villamil (the current capital). Prisoners were put to work on various projects, including building the “Wall of Tears,” (Muro de las lágrimas) a large wall constructed from lava rocks. I rented a bike for $10 for the day, brought food with me and had a great 4 hours looking around the area.

It is best to bike all the way out to the wall and then stop at all the other lookouts on the way back.

el estero that goes through the mangrove

Even the iguanas know how to stay on the right side of the road.

At Poza escondida. This finch loved my bike tire.

Túnel del estero. Formed when lava flows cooled on the outside to make a tube. The inside lava continued to flow out.

After that I went to pearl concha, where many go to snorkel.

Then a rest at the pink iguana.

Isabela Island is the main focus of conservation efforts in the Galapagos. Programs are in place to protect the endemic species and restore habitats that have been affected by invasive species and human activity.

Goats were one of the most destructive invasive species. They degraded the habitat by overgrazing, which led to soil erosion and the destruction of native vegetation. This impacted native tortoise populations. Donkeys also contributed to this problem.

Pigs, introduced by humans, preyed on the eggs and hatchlings of native reptiles, such as tortoises and iguanas.

Black rats and Norway rats were introduced accidentally by ships. They prey on eggs and hatchlings of birds and reptiles.

Feral cats have been a significant predator of native wildlife, including birds, iguanas, and young tortoises. Their hunting behavior has caused declines in many native species. Dogs likewise are a problem.

An invasive insects, such as the Philornis downsi fly affected birds. The larvae of this fly parasitize the nestlings of many bird species, causing high mortality rates.

Blackberry and guava plants outcompete the native species and grow too thick.

The aggressive eradication of most of these allowed the tortoise population to increase.

Last day in Santa Cruz and the highlands

In the morning I went back to Tortuga Bay. It is a lovely 3.5 km walk to get to the sheltered bay. I had a group tour in the afternoon so this was a perfect start to the day.

Brunch was at a restaurant I had been wanting to go to. They also had brujo, known as scorpion fish which I had to try. It was delicious and I saved half for breakfast the next day. I will be leaving on the 7 am ferry to go to Isabela.

El Chato Tortoise Reserve

Most of the island is a protected reserve. In some areas there are farms but a lot of the land is used by tortoises to roam freely. They spend their time grazing and when it is time to lay eggs, they head to the lowlands and the sand.

This little duck had been swimming around and wanted to just sleep. He was annoyed but did after I took his picture.

Water is used for temperature regulation.

Twin Craters (Los Gemelos)

The Gemelos (the twins) Craters are in the center in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island. They are a pair of large sinkholes formed by collapsed magma chambers. The vegetation in the area are Scalesia forest that contain plant species found only in the galapagos. It is a reminder that these islands were formed from past volcanic activity.

Galapagos dove with the characteristic blue eyes compared to other dove species.

Mocking bird which originally intrigued Darwin on his visit to a different island.

Lava tubes

The lava tunnels are underground tubes formed by flowing lava during volcanic eruptions. They form when the surface of a lava flow cools and hardens but the molten lava beneath still flows away. The result is a hollow tunnel. This tunnel goes for kilometers but sections have collapsed. This section is still accessible.

Santa Cruz, Galapagos

Santa Cruz is the second largest island in the Galapagos Archipelago. It is around 1.5 million years old. It is one of the younger islands in the Galapagos.

The island was named Santa Cruz, meaning “Holy Cross”. It was also called Indefatigable by the British after HMS Indefatigable. The Galapagos Islands were used by whalers and buccaneers as a base for their operations. There are many islands in the archipelago. Darwin did not visit Santa Cruz.

The Charles Darwin Research Station was Founded in 1959, after petitions internationally we’re Made to preserve the islands. Many changes had occurred and due to human activity and invasive species, native species were endangered. Now 97% of the entire Galapagos is for preservation and research. People live on only 3%. Tours can access several areas on a limited basis. Conservation remains a priority to protect its unique flora and fauna.

Sea lion living it’s best life on the
San Cristobal pier

Getting from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz was easy with an approximate 2 hour ferry.

Tortuga Bay

This was an easy 35 minute walk from the center of town through the park. Many lizards and birds hop on and off the path.

The bay is used for surfers and it’s too rough for swimming, but if you walk to the other end of the beach, the path curves towards a sheltered bay.

The marine iguanas can be seen here. They only go in the water when they want to feed on the algae on the rocks. Their noses are blunt for this purpose and their claws and limbs are adapted for this purpose. This is the only marine iguana in the world. When they sneeze on land, they are sneezing out the excess salt from their dive!

Here you can snorkel, swim, or rent a kayak. Lots of wildlife can be seen from the kayak.

The Darwin research station

Outside the research station is a little building where you can purchase a tour with a naturalist. It gives you more access to the station. While you wait there is an artist area across the street that leads to the Bay.

At the station I saw the turtle breeding program area. They breed and monitor the eggs then when they hatch, they keep them for 5 years before releasing into the wild. They mimic the requirements needed for that time. By controlling egg incubation temperatures, they can ensure enough males and females.

At the information center we saw lonesome George, the last of his specific breed of tortoise. Many of the rest of his species had been smuggled out of the Galapagos and despite reward offerings to give one up for a mating partner, no one responded. When he died, they had him taxidermied.