Kamakura and a view of Mt. Fuji

April 1st, I traveled out of Tokyo to Kamakura. One of my stops on any day that is clear is to try to see Mt. Fuji from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government office. Since I will be passing through the area on many days, I was prepared to stop when the day is not cloudy.

I walked to the Mitaka metro station. Such beautiful neighborhoods with a walking and biking friendly culture. It was an enjoyable start to the morning.

This walkway had some cool shops and restaurants.

I arrived at the Shinjuku station. This place is crazy. The majority of the lines go through this station but not all. This is a crazy transportation system. More than 3.5 million people pass through this one station every single day. There are 36 platforms. There are 200 exits. I should have taken a photo, it is impressive.

I followed hallways underneath to get to the Government office exit.

From there I went to the 45th floor of the observation deck. It is a 360 view of Tokyo.

You can just make out Mt. Fuji in the background below.

Here is part of the labeled diagram above the observation window.

I went back to Shinjuku Station to continue travel to Kamakura which is outside of Tokyo.

The Tsurugaoka Hachimangu temple is Kamakura’s most important shrine. It was founded in 1063 but moved here in 1180 by Minamoto Yoritomo, the founder and first shogun of the Kamakura government. This was the original first capitol. The shrine is dedicated to Hachiman, the patron god of that family and of the samurai. You can reach the shrine easily as the road from Kamakura’s waterfront goes through the entire city center to the shrine. You pass multiple red torii gates along the way.

There are places for prayer around the shrine.

There is also a shrine museum once you enter the shrine. There are many beautiful artifacts from the 14th century on. Many 11th and 12th century artifacts are replicas.

This is a replica of Great Armor.

A plaque of Hachinangu from 1629. This plaque was written when Shinto and Buddhist temples were on the same shrine grounds. They have since been separated in the 19th century.

Plaques from poets and a scroll illustrating the procession in a festival.

A small portable shrine.

This is the large walkway to the stairs of the shrine.

At the base of the staircase.

On each side of the main approach to the shrine are two ponds. One pond represents the Minamoto Clan and has three islands, while the other represents the Taira Clan, the Minamoto’s arch rivals, and has four islands.

A walk to the Great Buddha Kamakura took me through well organized and maintained streets. It is a good idea to bring an umbrella as it started to rain. Many merchants came to the front of the shops to sell umbrellas to those in need.

The great Buddha is a national treasure dating from 1252 and took 10 years to build. It is the principle deity. It is 13.4 meters high including the pedestal and weighs 121 tons.

From here it was a short walk to the Kamakura Hasedera temple. Hasedera (長谷寺) is a temple famous for its eleven-headed statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The gilded wooden statue is regarded as one of the largest wooden sculptures in Japan and is in the Kannon-do Hall. It is beautiful but no pictures were allowed. Outside at the entrance:

In the gardens before climbing the stairs to the temple:

The hall that houses the statue:

Remembrances and prayers.

The view from the top is fabulous. This is a seaside town.

A small temple hall in the garden is dedicated to Benten, a goddess of feminine beauty and wealth.

Attached to the hall is the Kannon museum which houses many artifacts. These are the avatars of Kannon and represent the virtues. There are 33 incarnate forms to perform charitable acts. These date from the 15th century.

This is a representation of Kannon and the 11 heads.

The stone tablet of the Hokyoin pagoda and tablet in Sanskrit.

A hanging plaque that would hang outside the original shrine.

More picture around the hall.

A bonsho or temple bell. The original is in the museum.

More pictures from the other side of the gardens below.

Sculptures of Benten and other gods can be found in a small cave (Benten-kutsu) next to the hall.

You can purchase figurines and write blessings on them to leave here.

Finally the rain stopped. I made my way to the beach. Yuigamahama Beach is a sandy beach within Kamakura City that faces toward Sagami Bay. The water was warm but that is because the air was pretty cool. It was nice to walk along this dark sand beach which is crowded in the summer for those escaping Tokyo and Yokohama.

I walked the way back to the train station on the main road. It is very doable to walk all of this if you see able.

On the way I saw a stupa. It was amongst the beautiful landscaping which is everywhere here. It was placed in 1356.

Information about this stupa or remembrance of artifacts of a significant person.


I took the train back but did not pay attention to when the train switched to another line. I traveled around eventually getting off and getting a direct train back. I met some very nice Japanese people including one man who gave me a pack of sesame snacks. We talked a little as he knew little English and I none of Japanese. We looked at each other’s flower pictures on our phones before it was his stop. I am impressed at how they manage emotions but also how well they age. Both men and women here have beautiful faces.

Tokyo: Cherry blossoms and an Onsen

After a late night of travel, it is nice to sleep in and spend time talking with my friend Sarah to catch up. She has a very interesting life as she is active in the international Tango community. Such fun!

After breakfast, I wandered around her area of Tokyo called Musashino. I walked down streets lined with cherry blossoms. It was beautiful. I love to walk around to get my bearings and identify places to eat (perhaps the most important think to think about) and look at the sights. It is spring so the air is cool but when the sun broke through was a lovely day for a long walk.

There are beautiful parks. Apartment buildings flank this park I found. I love the simple designs of the architecture.

One neighborhood off of a park.

I circled around a park that had spaces for playing baseball which is popular year round here and very big in Japanese culture. I noticed the trees here are numbered to track it’s care and maintenance.

I love birds and listened to them throughout the walk. They really have distinctive calls here which are not like a sing song as they are elsewhere.

I am always fascinated by architecture and this caught my eye. I think this would be a fascinating place to live. Such a skinny building!

A house that alsu caught my eye.

After working up an appetite, Sarah and I went searching for lunch in Kichijoji, one of the 47 Tokyo neighborhoods. We ate at Ootoya.

Everything here is beautifully presented and the Japanese take pride in their work no matter their job. We had fish with vegetables in a vinegar reduction. Salad, rice, soup, and pickled Daikin are the sides. It was very yummy and filling.

I tried dessert as there are jelly cubes I wanted to try. They are not overly sweet and the jelly is very firm and difficult to cut. I noticed them at gift stores. They are popular and sold in rectangles in assorted flavors. This one is matcha green tea and served with ice cream. A molasses type syrup was served with it.

Small alleyways with smaller shops give a glimpse of old Tokyo.

We then headed to Inokashira pond in Inokashira park. It is a popular place to view cherry blossoms. People put out tarps to hold their space for after work parties. Junior workers in companies are often instructed to take the tarp to the park and start there to hold their spot for parties after work. People were having a great time enjoying the day, eating and drinking.

There are swan boats you can rent to paddle with your feet or canoes to row.

Inokashira Benzaiten is a small shrine in the park. It took some time to get through the maze of people who were taking pictures from the bridge. It is also near peak of cherry blossoms so everyone was out!

I saw a great blue heron minding his own business and trying to ignore the crowds!

The shrine has water troughs to clean hands before entering the temple or praying. One of the water features has the water coming from a dragon.

The shrine.

You can pay to write blessings to leave or to receive fortunes. If you do not like a fortune you can tie it here to leave.

A view of the pond from the other side as we were leaving. You can see the bridge and it is packed with people. I love how the trees look like they are covered in snow with so many blossoms.

There are vending machines everywhere for drinks. They have both hot and cold drinks to dispense. Notice the red and blue on the buttons.

We headed to little Korea in Shinjuku. Korean pop music is popular everywhere here.

I was looking for an Onsen. It is a Japanese mineral bath, many which have direct tap to mineral springs. Due to impressive volcanic activity in Japan, there are many hot springs that bubble to the surface. To be an Onsen, the water must contain one of the 19 designated minerals.

The water is believed to have a multitude of healing properties and have minerals believed to be good for circulation, your skin, and your health.

Many Onsen are made from granite, marble, or cypress. An ordinary bathhouse which is not spring fed is called a Senso. The water is warmed up to make a bath. It is for common people and not a luxury like an Onsen. There is still a culture against tattoos. It used to be a sign of belonging to the yakuza or organized crime. There are only a handful of Onsen that will take people with tattoos. This is one of them.

It is divided into men and women. You clean up before entering the baths using shampoo and soap they provide. The baths have different pools which are separated into warm and hot (hot is very hot). Birthday suits only! There are no swimming suits and women of all ages used the same large bath.

There are lockers for shoes when you enter the place and lockers for your clothes when you get ready for the bath.

No pictures of course on the inside and I must confess to being nervous at first but all the women there are for self-care and don’t seem to worry about what others think. We think others are judging but that is usually not true.

Pictures from the outside. The symbol for the Onsen look like steam. It was 450 yen or $4.05 to use the bath for up to 2 hours.

What did I think of the Onsen? Very relaxing. It warmed me up and all my joints felt great. Next time I will drink more water first!

Afterwards, I headed back through an alley of little Korea.

Lots of food to try. Okay, these are churros… But made of oreos!

I wanted to try Korean pancake stuffed with sweet potato.

Also on this sign are potato corn dogs stuffed with cheese or sausage. I did not try that.

Korean pancake stuffed with sweet potato.


It was delicious. A great first day. Now to plan out tomorrow.

Travel to Japan

Some thoughts…

Air travel here is great. Full meals. Plenty to drink. Movies. That is not even a four hour flight. Matcha tea (hot), Matcha drink, Häagen-Dazs ice cream…

Easily half of the plane is business class and first class. They know how to travel…

Actually the seats in economy were spacious. This is the best plane I have been on since Thai airways, which is pretty exceptional too. Now I see why many exists don’t like some of the other Asian airlines… However, compared to US travel, they are still better.

Tokyo Haneda airport is pretty cool.

Lots of great shops. The snacks around here are amazing.

I’m glad they added Japan to the store front. I thought I could be in China… Not really. There is however a serious hello kitty obsession in this part of the world.

The airport bathrooms are pretty cool and know that will be true around Tokyo. Even the squatty potty have guard rail bars for those of us who are older… And the sound of running water to help you go… Pretty funny but effective. I will miss my Japanese toilet in my old apartment. It really is great.

I am waiting to meet my friend Sarah Sutter to spend the next 6 days at her place. We met as Google certified educators over 10 years ago. I then expanded my world with educators overseas. A few years later, she made the big leap as well. For awhile I lived vicariously through her. She is the inspiration for my move half way around the world…

I am so lucky to have this opportunity to travel and grateful every day.

Panyu Qu Pottery class

The one thing I miss from before I moved to China is learning something new and creating with my bare hands. I have not bought craft items here but have had the yearning to try something I have not had the opportunity to do before. I saw this pottery tour and class and couldn’t resist. Sometimes you just need to get your hands dirty.

After a very long week, this is exactly what I needed.

Pottery is a gift from god to humans

No matter how small a force is, it will splash somewhere.

Even the weakest wind breaks the stiffness of the air.

I’m going to escape from the fickle city for a while

Just a little while

To care and comfort myself

About the pottery tour and class:

It sounds like an old forest in a deep mountain, but it’s just a small hill in the suburb of Panyu district. An artists couple want to concentrate on their art work, so they moved out of the city, and built up their workshop here by themselves. Brick by brick, step by step, they put all their passion and feeling of pottery into this unique place. You can’t tell how peaceful and beautiful this place is, until you come here.

The artist and her husband teach ceramics at university, offer classes, and create pieces on order. They have a couple apprentices working with them. They live the slow life: Growing their own food and living the artist life.

Pieces of pottery are found in walls and walkways.

This is a shipping container that is their kitchen so it can be moved around if they expand or rearrange.

This is the outsude of the library. In Chinese, to read books is Kan shu. They do research here for different methods, styles, and designs.

Inside the room.

This pottery piece is from the Ming dynasty.

This cat is actually for on top of a roof. If there is a storm coming, the wind will make a whistling sound through the cats mouth.

Outside the gallery of artists pieces.

Inside a large pottery piece is a turtle.

More pictures around the property.

Many different kinds of pots and figurines.

Many cups and shards add interest to everything.

Storage area outside the potters area.

The kiln. The artist gave us a tour after a history of pottery during the first tea.

One side of the classroom.

During the first class we learned a few basic techniques for creating plates. We were able to make multiple pieces from which we could choose the one we liked best (we could pay extra for others we made).

This is a rectangular serving plate. It is upside down to dry into shape over a form.

This one has a design in the plate of a tree. I did not take a picture of it before I put it on the form so hoping that it comes out okay and I can show you later.

After lunch we were taught how to use the wheel. It took some practice. My mug did not turn out as hoped. It definitely had character as it leaned quite a bit.

I did make a pretty decent bowl.

They did make a video of the second pottery class.

After the class we had another tea and snacks while learning more about pottery and history.

There were many beautiful pieces in the tea room.

Inside the artists gallery. These are not for sale but samples for those to place orders.

We did try some Chinese calligraphy. It is much harder than it seems.

The place seems like it’s far away. It is in the far reaches of the city and the hustle and bustle feels much farther away. The tour included transportation, 2 Chinese tea with snacks, healthy lunch, 2 pottery classes, calligraphy class, and one item that we made (they fire and glaze the pieces). We also had the opportunity to buy extra pieces we made for 50 rmb each (7,44 USD). They glaze and fire those as well.

It was a rainy, cold, and dreary day. Perfect for learning something new and refilling the soul.

The past two weeks

Before I write about going to Shenzen, Zhongshan furniture shopping, and other things I have been doing… What I’m thinking about now…

All educators know that even though teaching is rewarding it is so tiring. I am really looking forward to retirement in a few years (okay, more like 5). Teaching is a sprint every year. The pace never ends and teaching international baccalaureate biology is crazy. I have great kids but the content is so heavy that there is no time for fun projects.

I am struggling to get to all the content I need to cover this year. It is a 2 year class so there is more content for next year too.

I am really fortunate to be here. I landed in a top tier school on my first try and will be here most likely until I retire. I work with amazing educators from all over the world and have incredible students. Being able to travel and see this part of the world is the icing on the cake.

This past week I had a massive ear infection that required IV antibiotics and steroids. A digital detox was unexpected but great for catching up on work as high level government meetings shut down VPN’s across the country. I practiced my mandarin and binge watched the first few seasons of Game of Thrones before the new season starts to rest while my ear healed.

I am looking forward to moving to a new apartment next year. This will be my new digs…

I have a week after school ends to move before flying home to spend 4 weeks in PA and another week traveling to Amsterdam before flying back. I will fly to Philly first to go to ISTE.

A couple weeks ago I traveled to Shenzen to visit Chuck Allessie and his wife Wei Ying. She is from Shenzen. Chuck had stomach issues but I still traveled to see her family. We ate at the most impressive dim sum restaurant. The food was amazing…

While we were waiting we walked around the mall and viewed some art on display.

Around the mall.it was great meandering and talking about life in China and the US. Wei Ying, her daughter and her sister are lovely and funny. It was good to be somewhere new and see new sights. I am grateful for their company and hospitality. Shenzen is beautiful and much smaller than Guangzhou.

We walked around the park on a beautiful but overcast day.

Shenzen is right next to Hong Kong which you can see across the water.

The next weekend a group of us chartered a bus to go to Zhongshan where there are many furniture stores in one place. Many of the stores have apprentice programs for youth and make impressive pieces.

I love the apothecary look and have thought about purchasing one for years.

One store had tables with water features in the center. They were gorgeous… And huge.

Lunch was amazing at a little restaurant nearby. Homemade noodles and dumplings.

Lots to see walking around…

In the end (literally the last 20 minutes) I did buy something. I will be moving into a different apartment and there is a lack of drawers in the kitchen.

Running and biking…

I sometimes think I am a bit less active here than when I was state-side but think I am still staying very active. My activities have just shifted a bit.

I still try to run three or four days a week. It was easier to do when I was coaching cross country and running with them. Since the season ended, it is so much easier to leave work early on the days that I don’t need to stay for meetings. Once home in my apartment I find it difficult to want to go out for a run. Work days are a little longer here especially when you include the commute.

I am training for a half marathon in Yixing China at the beginning of April. That helps to motivate me.

I did join the local Nike Run club. I was introduced by a Chinese national I met at an exercise bootcamp. They are all very friendly there and welcoming. I am practicing my chinese a little (mostly counting down stretches, but every little bit helps).

Here is a pic before one of our runs. We run on Tuesday night through the greenway which is lit up and has many pedestrians allowing me to practice quick weaving in and out to avoid collisions!

run club

Nicole is another first year teacher from Australia I spend much time with. She likes to go walking around instead of taking the metro or didis (taxis) and runs in the club as well. This is after one of the runs while we were waiting for the other groups to finish.

Nike run club post run

At the last club event yesterday we went on a longer run. Information before sometimes includes new product information. Since it is in Chinese I will try to pick out words I know but also make up my own narrative when I feel silly.

Before the run. There are stretches, info, introducing of pacers, and a group Photo.

During the long run. There were 4 groups based on pace. I chose the fast group that night. They are pretty crazy marathoners.

After the run there are stretches.

And time to chat.

This time they also had giveaways. When my name was pulled the person could not pronounce it but the pacers could as I am a regular every week.

As my name was pulled I was to draw the next name. I kept thinking to myself that there is no way I will be able to pronounce the name I draw and was surprised when it was Nicole’s!

We stayed a little longer to try out the new fly knit shoes on the treadmill. For giving feedback and running one minute they give you a massage ball. Nicole and I with one of the pacers, Sam.

Since I do not like to ride the bus all the time, I joined a group of teachers who bike to work. It is about 12-13 miles and takes us around 50-55 minutes to bike. There are showers at the school and usually we ride the bus home as traffic is a bit more in the afternoon. Since they are coach buses, there is room to store the bike underneath.

Biking

My goal is to use a go pro to show the tire of traffic around here. It is not just the trucks, cars, and busses… The pedestrians and other bikes can be the biggest challenge. I will add that later.

Friday night hot pot

There is a restaurant along our running route we have been wanting to try. Nicole and I finally stopped to try it.

After some translating app use, we ordered the broth for the hot pot. I am certain it is not vegetarian but good nonetheless. I’m not worried about broth.

The heating is in the center of the table.

The food choices were fabulous. A lot to choose from.

Veggies, mushroom, tofu…

Assorted meats. You grab skewers of mear or trays of seafood along the bottom to take back to the table.

They count everything up in the end.

You start adding your pieces to the hot pot as you go.

The dish in the lower left on the above picture is additional items to flavor your broth you put in your bowl. Garlic, chilies, sauces…

Fun and yummy. Items to add are at the end of the table and you add to the broth as you go.

I know there is bit out on other places of the world but this was really fun. When we would run by we would always smell curry. Turns out it is probably not coming from this restaurant. More exploring to do!

Everything’s coming up flowers…

There are some spectacular displays here for Chinese New Year. For weeks they have been working on garden displays and finally opened it up to view.

Each area has a specific design and focus.

Many different decorations can be seen.

There were so many flowers and all were gorgeous.

These large flowers are made from flowers themselves.

The orchids are just beautiful.

This display with a waterfall and deer is one of my favorite.

It is the year of the pig. Pigs showed up in many displays whether they fit the theme or not.

Love these trio of elephants.

It would not be Chinese new year without a dragon.

This car made from plants is pretty clever.

Another display:

Another pig in the style of Peppa pig.

This display was meant to look like a painting.

Buddha park

Buddha Park is also known as Xiang Khan, it means “Spirit City”. There are no traditional Buddha statues. Built by Luang Pu, who styled the park in Buddhist and Hindu mythology erected statues built by amateurs to showcase that mythology. The statues are bizarre and cool at the same timeand each tells a story. As it was my last morning in Vientiane and we needed to check out of the hotel, we did not spend time to do the audio tour. During unrest during the revolution in Laos in 1975, he fled the city into Thailand (Nong Khai) which is less than 1 kn away and built a similar park there. You can see the Laos park from the highest structure in the park in Thailand.

We took the #14 bus for the 45 minute ride there. It is only 6000 kip to ride one direction which is pretty cheap and easy to get to.

This structure is known as the pumpkin. You enter through the mouth of the demon structure and go up a sets of stairs several levels to eventually stand all the way at the top. This signifies hell at the bottom, Earth in the middle, and heaven at the top.

Inside the bottom level of “hell”. I didn’t realize you could walk in there at first.

As I went up one set of very narrow stairs, I realized that there were more sculptures in the center and even narrower stairs going up the direct center.

Here is the view on the Earth layer:

And the view in the center of the Heaven layer:

The view standing at the top. There are a lot of people trying to get around a narrow and sloped  level at the top. 

View of the 390 foot long giant reclining buddha from the top of the pumpkin.

I am fascinated with sculptures and mythology so snapped quite a few pictures even though I am unable to find an online guide for the meaning.

All of the sculptures are intersting not only because of their very large size but also their artistic detail. They look like they are very old but only date back to 1958. Flooding from the Mekong River right next to the park is causing decay of many of the structures.

The most outstanding sculpture includes this one: Indra, the king of Hindu gods riding the three-headed elephant.

An artistic deity with 12 faces and many hands that are each holding interesting objects. 

This is the only temple that was actually constructed there in the park.

A four-armed deity sitting on a horse.

COPE

One of the places I heard about and wanted to go to was the COPE foundation. It is a solemn visitor center and museum with displays on the history of bombings & related disabilities of those injured from bombings and other accidents that leave them disabled. Sometimes they are brought to the center where they fit them for prosthetics, provide rehab, provide or fix wheelchairs, etc. Many times they will go out to the villaged when they hear there is need.

What really saddens me is the other countries that have stepped up to help Laos in removing bombs that are ask in the ground and active or help with those who have had limbs ripped off as a result. Most notably is Australia.

It actually makes me sad and very angry that the US dies nothing when we were the most at fault fur bombing Laos. They were not in the war at all and this country is so poor and removing the bombs so daunting.

A cluster bomb and the many bombies that are released. 30% are still active today where they sit in the ground.

This does a bombie in the ground. One would not even see it and accidentally step on it. Many of the bombies also have trip wires that can set them off.

Look at all the red areas on the map. These are all areas where bombs have been identified or where known targets could be from bombing records and accounts. If you wonder why Laos is poor, here is one reason.

Many household items are made from bomb casings and scrap that is found.

To read personal accounts of the war and accidental finding of bombies can be found at www.legaciesofwar.org

Some prosthetics they create.

The trip wures coming from a bombie.