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Indigenous village

After the nature hike we went by canoe to another island inhabited by an indigenous tribe. The tribe I believe receives money to maintain the rituals for tourism.

We stopped to try foods including Brazil nuts, rambutan (which I have not had since I left China), and a tapioca pan.

On the left are larvae and on the right are dried ants. Yes, I tried both of them.

These Brazil nuts are actually found in a giant pod. I did not know that.

They use the office of the eucalyptus tree to start a fire to begin the ceremony.

These people were such fun buddies for several days.

Nature walk

We stopped to walk in a different jungle and pick up some survival tips. I think there would be a lot of things to worry about.

Our guide used the machete to scrape against the tree and these gigantic ants came running out from the ground. These are bullet ants. They contain a neurotoxin in their sting that last for some time.

This tree (*Costus igneous*) is actually a medicine for diabetes.

This is a species of eucalyptus that when cut has a resin that is used to start fires even if the wood is wet. We actually used some of this tree bark to start our campfire on the overnight hike.

A fun hike, glad we did not get close to the bullet ants.

Pink nosed dolphins, crocodiles, and other critters

I know many wildlife conservationists know that swimming with dolphins is not good for their well being. I still wanted to see them. I had seen them at times in the wild from the canoe while moving around during my Amazon stay, but I wanted to experience them closer.

The pink dolphins in the Amazon are known as Amazon river dolphins or boto. They are freshwater dolphins native to the Amazon and Orinoco river basins in South America. They have a pink color, which is more prominent in males and becomes brighter during the mating season.

We also went spotting for crocodiles. There were a few large ones that we saw and I had the chance to hold a baby for a few seconds. He was let back into the same location on the thick grass near the edge.

Of course there are toads. This is the most common one we saw.

One loved my room. He was eating insects I am sure.

This guy was happy to hang out in the dining room.

The Harpy Eagle (Harpia harpyja) is prominent in the Rio Negro region of Brazil. It is one of the largest and most powerful eagles in the world, known for its impressive size, strength, and distinctive appearance. It is found in the tropical lowlands along the Rio Negro.

If you look at the shoreline you can see the tea color of the water of the Rio Negro. It is caused by decomposition of the vegetation here and the acidic compounds make it that color. It also is not a good breeding ground for mosquitoes so though there are some mosquitoes it is not a lot. It is also a very clear water.

Plants here are adapted to the rising waters.

This is probably a Cuban tree frog or a white lipped tree frog. Either way it is invasive and not native.

We also took some canoe trips to look around the area and look for animals.

We also took a canoe to look at some structures that were left behind when they could not finish constructing a hotel. It was a relaxing canoe ride but on the way back a few of us fell asleep and arrived back to the lodge a bit pink like the dolphins.

You can see the structures from a distance.

We were not able to get out of the canoe to get closer as the grass was thick in the area to take the canoe through and there were crocodiles in the area. Instead we stopped at another resort to get in the water and get some snacks.

Amazon rainforest jungle camping

Okay. I am not fond of camping but I wanted to sleep in the Amazon to see what it is like.

I gathered my sturdy hiking boots, long pants and shirt, bug spray, a 2 L bottle of water, and a good rain jacket. That is really all that is needed. I bought a portable power bank but really did not use much battery as there is no cellular signal or WiFi.

We went by canoe from the Anaconda island where the lodge is located to a location in the state of Amazonas.

Mosquitoes are actually not as prevalent as I thought thanks to the slightly dark colored water here. It looks like coca cola when being poured into a glass and has been described as tea colored.

The coloring is due to the high concentration of organic matter such as tannins and humic acids that are leached from decaying vegetation. These compounds are released when plants decompose in the forests. The waters of the Rio Negro also have a low mineral content,along it more transparent. It is easy to see the dark color.

The trek was 1 km inland from the Rio Negro.

Tying up the hammocks and mosquito nets.

There is a wood here that is high in oil content and used as a fire starter.

Using pieces of wood for a base for grilling.
Rice was made in a pot earlier.

We learned to make bowls out of leaves. Quite a handy trick. And our guide made little paddles out of wood to use as a hybrid spoon and knife. On the menu was rice and chicken. I was hungry, I ate chicken

After finishing dinner, the rain started and it didn’t stop all night. We went into the hammocks and talked, chilled out and went to sleep.

I woke up on and off through the night and recorded a few sounds. It had been described as being very loud, but so are crickets in rural western PA. We heard birds, insects, and monkeys but since it was raining there was much less activity.

The next morning…. And no it hasn’t stopped raining yet.

This area will be under water during the rainy season, which starts now. You can see how the roots adapt .

Many trees have spikes which are quite sharp.

You can see the change in color of the bark part way up. The water will be that deep in this area in just 4 months. This is only the start of the rainy season.

Lots of water to walk through to get back to the canoe.

Literally a cabin in the woods. Relaxing here…

A shower was first on the list. There is no power in the cabins from 6 am to 6 pm and also no Wifi. There is wifi at the lodge itself and is powered by solar power. Not a fancy place to stay but it has what you need. I have to say that the fish here is amazing. And, there is a pool….

Manaus Day 2

Manaus is a smaller sprawling city with very little tall buildings. I love the old world charm. It is the city you come to when you head into the Amazon (that adventure is next).

On Sundays, the street I’m on closes down a little south of the hotel. It is fun to people watch and look around.

The target of my walk. Adolpho Lisboa Municipal Market. The ironwork in the building is fashioned
after a famous market in Paris

Not sure what I was looking for here but I bought a pair of earrings at the teatro made of Madera (wood). I did find a complementing necklace to go with it here.

The port of Manaus. Not a place to walk.
It is a military port at this location.

I decided to go back to the hotel and sit in the pool. That lasted a short time as it is rainy season right now and every day it rains for about an hour.

I dipped my toes in the water. It was really warm but had not planned to swim there. I came to the beach for photos, people watching, and to find something to eat. Many of the restaurants near the hotel are closed on Sunday.

After walking along the beach, I went to a local 4 star hotel but they were closed for dinner until a little later in the evening. There was a particular fish I wanted to try. Instead I went to a food stall as one of the items in the menu was Tacacá. Tacacá is a traditional Brazilian soup from the Amazonas region. It’s made with a broth of jambu leaves (a local herb that causes a tingling sensation in the mouth), dried shrimp, yellow manioc flour, and sometimes tucupi (a broth made from manioc root). It also had shrimp (Camarones) in it. It’s a hot soup and is a favorite type of street food here. I was excited that this vendor took credit cards (many do even if you are only buying a soda). Because I arrived at 2:30 in the morning, I didn’t have a chance to exchange currency to pay in cash). The soup was a little gelatinous in some parts and tasted acidic. But now, I think that has more to do with the numbing effect of the jambu.

I also ordered “Petisco da Tio Socorro” which is a local dish. It’s common in Brazil for eateries to use the term “Tio” (uncle in Portuguese and Spanish) into their names, often followed by a person’s name or nickname. The word “petisco” means an appetizer or snack in Brazilian cuisine. Using these clues, “Petisco da Tio Socorro” is a type of appetizer or snack specific to that particular vendor. No matter, it is fried dough with a thick sauce that reminded me of Indian gravy with shrimp in them. It was very good too.

I walked for a bit afterwards towards the center of Manaus. I have been increasing activity with my ankle throughout the past two days.

I saw the Unba sushi bar on my walk. I was still a little hungry and glad I stopped. They had the fish I wanted to try and even better as it was in a ceviche. Ceviche is “cooked” with an acidic sauce and one of my favorite dishes. The fish is called Arapaima gigas, also known as pirarucu.

Pirarucu is a freshwater fish native to the Amazon Basin. It is one of the largest freshwater fish species in the world and can grow up to 3 meters (which is 10 feet!). It can weigh 180 kg (which is around 400 pounds!). It is similar to cod or halibut and was delicious served with a thick sweetened soy sauce.

From the balcony of the sushi bar I thought I would be able to see the sunset but there were too many clouds that afternoon. Beautiful nonetheless.

The hotel I stayed in is called the Casa perpetua d charm in the centro histórico. Tall ceilings, old architecture, very beautiful….

After some searching through channels, I did find that they were showing the Superbowl! Or is in Portuguese but I can see the scores and the half time show. What they don’t show is all the commercials! I’ll see them on playback on my cable box when I get home.

Excited for the next adventure….

Manaus

Before I knew it, it was the start of a week break and I was off to fly to Brazil. I had planned to fly into Manaus, Brazil for two days and then spend five days in the Amazon. Of course an old injury in a ligament in my ankle happened the week before. I was now in a boot on my ankle butt made plans be careful before and during the trip.

On the second flight I was able to get a
row to myself to put my foot up for a bit.

One of the first things I bought the next morning was Portuguese egg tarts. So amazing and delicious.

In Manaus, my hotel was close to Teatro Amazonas.

Teatro Amazonas is a historic opera house located in Manaus, Brazil which is in the heart of the Amazon. It was constructed during the late 1800’s during the rubber boom. At that time Manaus was one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to the rubber trade. It was designed by an Italian architect and is opulent with French and other European touches. You can see both Renaissance and Baroque influences. The dome is beautiful and covered in 36,000 ceramic tiles. The theater hosted numerous performances by renowned artists and became a cultural hub for the region. As with most landmarks, it fell into disrepair and was restored. Teatro Amazonas still hosts operas, concerts, and other events.

The pink fabric helped in soundproofing.

The beautiful dune and chandelier in the concert hall.

The governor’s box surrounded by curtains.

In the ballroom where the floor and materials
found in the room are original.

There chairs on the left are courting benches. Two single seats flank a wider bench in the center. The man and woman sit on the single chairs with their families in the middle. Across from them is a mirror. It is so designed so that you cannot see the other person in the couple but the families can see everything.
Such an interesting custom.

Outside the theater are really cute places.

The Provincial Palace is another historic building constructed during the rubber boom. The architecture is beautiful and served as the seat of the government of the state of Amazonas. There are displays of art in the downstairs.

Guarana is tasty and is an energy drink here. By afternoon I needed the caffeine.

In the centro historico is a bar on the Street of my hotel. It was called Gringo’s bar and they played 80’s music which is my jam. People were very friendly and I stopped to talk in Spanish. Summer people speak both Spanish and Portuguese. I had a beer and a sandwich while I waited for the rainstorm to pass.

A local bloque party which was pretty chill though it was early in the night yet by party standards.

Carnaval

In my school they have a carnaval celebration that turns the school a bit upside down. It is a long standing tradition. The 10th, 11th, and 12th grade nominate and vote for a representative to be on student council but is much like the carnival queen contest that used to be the tradition. What is really spectacular about it is that each class uses a theme, they plan a day of games for the 7th through 9th graders to court their votes for the winner.

Lots of water to keep everyone cool and of course fur fun. Combined with powdered dye…

The 10th grade whose theme was Peter Pan

12th grade theme of Aladdin. Pretty much everyone had a slip and slide. Some played soccer on it.
This one had giant bowling pins you slide into.

Some videos from end of the games:

That night was the show for each of the three grades. They coordinated costumes and dances to fit the theme. At the end of each of the class choreography, the representative candidate was introduced and brought to the stage in a carriage float. Then there is a speech from the escort and then the candidate.

I took some videos of portions of the dances. Students have been working on this for several months and it was very exciting to see them work collaboratively for such a presentation.

The next day was voting. And the 11th grade one. Their candidate is now on student council and the grade had the bragging rights for the best coordinated plan and fun.

Weird days of late in Quito

During school in January, reports came out about curfews and other changes to crack down on notorious drug gangs and problems in the prisons as most were under the control of the inmates. It was mostly due to one of the biggest drug lords having also escaped.

At first, we were not sure what to believe as there were many fake news stories just to create further panic. But we went home, stocked up on food (not like the US where everyone is buying toilet paper) and we prepared to go to online learning. Originally it was for 3 days but ended up being two weeks.

We are still under a curfew of midnight until 5 am which is fine for me. I am hardly out late as it is. Many of the cities near the coast do have a problem with crime and prison control but in Quito not as much to worry about. They have regained control of many prisons and also conducted raids that extended into other countries. The latest is a dual operation in Ecuador and Spain that uncovered illegal activity involving criminal organizations from multiple other countries. Much information had actually not been reported so as to not tip off those criminal organizations.

Regardless, I did not venture out for much of the first week except to get food. After that, I did some walks around the neighborhood and a few other things:

The hardest part was not riding bikes for the first two weekends until they allowed the bike riding route (ciclo paseo) to resume.

We have a few people in our apartment building and we met on the roof to enjoy yoga and get fresh air.

A walk in the neighborhood Park close to my house

We walked through the little village that is part of the park. Very tranquil and a beautiful day.

Though I did not take pictures, there was a good police presence in the park where they also use horses.

In the park, the native villagers had their llamas out!

Afterwards we ate at a little cafe in the neighborhood. Everything is made with plantains. On the left is cups made of plantains and filled with shrimp. On the right is the Bolon Verde with peanuts. So delicious.

On a bike ride I saw a person milking their goat
and selling the milk fresh on the street.
I missed that picture but saw another person
not far from there with their goats.

Of course a favorite is watching street performers at intersections. This one had enough time to set up a low tightrope and walk while juggling across it.

I took another tour in Old Town just to get out.

And eventually joined a book club with others from school. Great to get together even for a short time.

Lunch with friends including a new one. Loved meeting Kim and talking about common countries and realizing people that we know in common.

Life feels pretty normal except for curfew, but it has changed whether I will need traveling some areas anytime soon.

Rescate wildlife rescue center, San Jose, Costa Rica and New Year’s Eve

After relaxing in a thermal spa for an hour, I started traveling to San Jose from La fortuna. The plan was to make a stop at the Bosque Nubosa el Cocora but the rain was heavy at the time. Instead I stopped at this rescue center for wild and domesticated animals in San Jose. These animals cannot be released back to the wild. Sometimes I am not sure about rescue centers but this was very nice and like the rest of Costa Rica everyone is friendly and helpful.

I don’t mind the entrance price for a rescue center as some animals cannot be released because of their injuries.

Tufted ear marmoset, the smallest primate

After lunch at the rescue center ( I had casado again, amazing to see the regional differences), it was a short drive to the hotel. Villa San Ignacio has a pool, not heated, but still swimmable especially in the sun. It is a beautiful place with small hiking trails on the property, traditional decor, and beautiful rooms. It is only 20 minutes from the rental car place and close to the airport.

It is New Year’s Eve and here is to another great year. I originally was going to find a place to go out but not the best idea the day before I leave as I would have to drive a few kilometers. Instead I had a few drinks at the bar and talked to a few new people I met.

There were fireworks staring before midnight and I could see some off them from the balcony outside my room.

New years day was gorgeous. The view from my breakfast table.

I had also intended to drive around San Jose but most places were closed and I enjoyed doing laps in the pool instead of walking around. A relaxing and recovering way to start the new year. Now to return to Quito….

I thoroughly enjoyed the laid back, relaxing life here (still a contender for retirement) and especially driving some off of the fun roads! I still need to go to the Caribbean side next….. Costa Rica, I’ll be back…..pura vida!

Caño Negro from La Fortuna

The next morning I woke up early to go on an excursion to the Caño Negro Reserve. It is in the north of Costa Rica along the Nicaragua border. It is the 3td most important wetland in the world. It is one of the first refuges to have managed a delicate balance between ecotourism and management of resources and is an area of extreme biological importance.

It took about 90 minutes to arrive and I was glad to see that it was not a paved road to get there. We boarded a boat to vote areas along the river.

Caiman. Did you know that when their mouth is open, they are actually making vitamin D?

Snake bird that drives to catch prey in the water

Emerald basilisk also known as the Jesus Christ lizard as it walks (runs) on water.

After the boat ride, we had a lovely meal of casado

We then had a tiny explanation of cacao and coffee and also how they extract the juice from sugar cane. We smoked raw cacao beans and then ground into a powder and mixed to make chocolate. They also shared moonshine made from sugar cane juice. To chase the shot, you suck on the sugar cane and bite the juice from it. We also sampled coffee.

Causa, a Peruvian dish made from potatoes

I went to the hot springs again after the tour and one more time before leaving La Fortuna.