The Meeting of the Waters in Manaus is a natural phenomenon where the dark colored waters of the Rio Negro (looks like tea or coca cola without suspended particles) meets the lighter, sandy-colored waters of the Solimões River (which flows to the Amazon), flowing side by side without immediately mixing for several kilometers, creating a stunning visual contrast. This occurs due to differences in temperature, speed, and density between the two rivers.
Even though we could see it, it helped when a big boat cut through across it. The waters moved in relation to each other but still didn’t mix.
Up close where the boat passed through. Even though the water moved in relation to each other, it still didn’t mix.
A video of the two different waters that don’t mix together.
We did go piranha fishing but alas, as with other fishing, you never know whether you catch anything. We didn’t….
The birds though congregated around usSunrise from the Anaconda Lodge.Sunset from one canoe trip.The fish the cook made for me when there was meat on the menu. That was actually very nice, as the rest of the meals were rice, pasta, beans, and watermelon.Fresh grilled fish and meat. The fish they cook is Tambaqui, a local fish.
On the last day we saw another small village that had a nice stream to relax in.
This mama just had a large number of puppies.No water near here but soon near the end of the rainy season they will need it to get around.
And in the pool at the resort, a different frog was there the last morning
And of course, this praying mantis loved to be held. I have held him most days. And he loved my phone. When I picked him up, his head turned wherever the phone was. Maybe he is an Instagram influencer? And with that, my time in the Amazon is almost done
Now to have a tour of the meeting of the waters in Manaus where two rivers of different densities meet.
Paricatuba is a small village located in the Brazilian state of Amazonas, along the Amazon River. It has historical significance as the site of the Paricatuba Cemetery, which was built in the late 19th century during the rubber boom era. The cemetery was designed to accommodate the large number of deaths caused by diseases like malaria and yellow fever among rubber tappers and workers.
A still.
The building we visited was originally a hotel for immigrants working during the rubber boom. There is evidence of the thick Italian tile.
Also the system of bricks that are alternated and very strong design came from Marseille France.
You can see the pattern of bricks.
When petroleum was replaced in making rubber, that economy fell and the building was used as a jail. Only a couple doors have bars on them still.
The bathroom. For many people.
Later it was used as an insane asylum and then as a hospital for those who are stricken with diseases as a form of isolation.
Now it is abandoned and the jungle (as all of nature) wins in the end. This reminds me of Angkor Wat but not as old obviously. It is only 120 years old.
After the nature hike we went by canoe to another island inhabited by an indigenous tribe. The tribe I believe receives money to maintain the rituals for tourism.
We stopped to try foods including Brazil nuts, rambutan (which I have not had since I left China), and a tapioca pan.
On the left are larvae and on the right are dried ants. Yes, I tried both of them.
The ant.
These Brazil nuts are actually found in a giant pod. I did not know that.
They use the office of the eucalyptus tree to start a fire to begin the ceremony.
Rambutan
These people were such fun buddies for several days.
We stopped to walk in a different jungle and pick up some survival tips. I think there would be a lot of things to worry about.
Our guide used the machete to scrape against the tree and these gigantic ants came running out from the ground. These are bullet ants. They contain a neurotoxin in their sting that last for some time.
Cupuacu fruitShelterRed roots of the Euterpe edulis palmThe black witch moth. Can you see it?This tree (Costus igneous) is actually a medicine for diabetes.
This is a species of eucalyptus that when cut has a resin that is used to start fires even if the wood is wet. We actually used some of this tree bark to start our campfire on the overnight hike.
A fun hike, glad we did not get close to the bullet ants.
I know many wildlife conservationists know that swimming with dolphins is not good for their well being. I still wanted to see them. I had seen them at times in the wild from the canoe while moving around during my Amazon stay, but I wanted to experience them closer.
The pink dolphins in the Amazon are known as Amazon river dolphins or boto. They are freshwater dolphins native to the Amazon and Orinoco river basins in South America. They have a pink color, which is more prominent in males and becomes brighter during the mating season.
We also went spotting for crocodiles. There were a few large ones that we saw and I had the chance to hold a baby for a few seconds. He was let back into the same location on the thick grass near the edge.
Of course there are toads. This is the most common one we saw.
One loved my room. He was eating insects I am sure.This guy was happy to hang out in the dining room.
The Harpy Eagle (Harpia harpyja) is prominent in the Rio Negro region of Brazil. It is one of the largest and most powerful eagles in the world, known for its impressive size, strength, and distinctive appearance. It is found in the tropical lowlands along the Rio Negro.
If you look at the shoreline you can see the tea color of the water of the Rio Negro. It is caused by decomposition of the vegetation here and the acidic compounds make it that color. It also is not a good breeding ground for mosquitoes so though there are some mosquitoes it is not a lot. It is also a very clear water.
Plants here are adapted to the rising waters.A mole cricketTarantula.This is probably a Cuban tree frog or a white lipped tree frog. Either way it is invasive and not native.
We also took some canoe trips to look around the area and look for animals.
We also took a canoe to look at some structures that were left behind when they could not finish constructing a hotel. It was a relaxing canoe ride but on the way back a few of us fell asleep and arrived back to the lodge a bit pink like the dolphins.
You can see the structures from a distance.
We were not able to get out of the canoe to get closer as the grass was thick in the area to take the canoe through and there were crocodiles in the area. Instead we stopped at another resort to get in the water and get some snacks.
Okay. I am not fond of camping but I wanted to sleep in the Amazon to see what it is like.
I gathered my sturdy hiking boots, long pants and shirt, bug spray, a 2 L bottle of water, and a good rain jacket. That is really all that is needed. I bought a portable power bank but really did not use much battery as there is no cellular signal or WiFi.
We went by canoe from the Anaconda island where the lodge is located to a location in the state of Amazonas.
Mosquitoes are actually not as prevalent as I thought thanks to the slightly dark colored water here. It looks like coca cola when being poured into a glass and has been described as tea colored.
The coloring is due to the high concentration of organic matter such as tannins and humic acids that are leached from decaying vegetation. These compounds are released when plants decompose in the forests. The waters of the Rio Negro also have a low mineral content,along it more transparent. It is easy to see the dark color.
The trek was 1 km inland from the Rio Negro.
Tying up the hammocks and mosquito nets.
Okay, we each brought a beer …..There is a wood here that is high in oil content and used as a fire starter.Using pieces of wood for a base for grilling. Rice was made in a pot earlier.We learned to make bowls out of leaves. Quite a handy trick. And our guide made little paddles out of wood to use as a hybrid spoon and knife. On the menu was rice and chicken. I was hungry, I ate chicken
After finishing dinner, the rain started and it didn’t stop all night. We went into the hammocks and talked, chilled out and went to sleep.
I woke up on and off through the night and recorded a few sounds. It had been described as being very loud, but so are crickets in rural western PA. We heard birds, insects, and monkeys but since it was raining there was much less activity.
The next morning…. And no it hasn’t stopped raining yet.
Eggs, bread, and coffee for breakfast.A cute little toad….This area will be under water during the rainy season, which starts now. You can see how the roots adapt .Many trees have spikes which are quite sharp.You can see the change in color of the bark part way up. The water will be that deep in this area in just 4 months. This is only the start of the rainy season.Lots of water to walk through to get back to the canoe.Literally a cabin in the woods. Relaxing here…On the way back to Anaconda Island.The cabins at the Anaconda Lodge.
A shower was first on the list. There is no power in the cabins from 6 am to 6 pm and also no Wifi. There is wifi at the lodge itself and is powered by solar power. Not a fancy place to stay but it has what you need. I have to say that the fish here is amazing. And, there is a pool….
Manaus is a smaller sprawling city with very little tall buildings. I love the old world charm. It is the city you come to when you head into the Amazon (that adventure is next).
On Sundays, the street I’m on closes down a little south of the hotel. It is fun to people watch and look around.Catedral Nossa Senhora de ConceicaoFountain near the Catedral.I loved the barbers on the street.The target of my walk. Adolpho Lisboa Municipal Market. The ironwork in the building is fashioned after a famous market in Paris Not sure what I was looking for here but I bought a pair of earrings at the teatro made of Madera (wood). I did find a complementing necklace to go with it here.The port of Manaus. Not a place to walk. It is a military port at this location.I decided to go back to the hotel and sit in the pool. That lasted a short time as it is rainy season right now and every day it rains for about an hour.Ponta negra beach
I dipped my toes in the water. It was really warm but had not planned to swim there. I came to the beach for photos, people watching, and to find something to eat. Many of the restaurants near the hotel are closed on Sunday.
After walking along the beach, I went to a local 4 star hotel but they were closed for dinner until a little later in the evening. There was a particular fish I wanted to try. Instead I went to a food stall as one of the items in the menu was Tacacá. Tacacá is a traditional Brazilian soup from the Amazonas region. It’s made with a broth of jambu leaves (a local herb that causes a tingling sensation in the mouth), dried shrimp, yellow manioc flour, and sometimes tucupi (a broth made from manioc root). It also had shrimp (Camarones) in it. It’s a hot soup and is a favorite type of street food here. I was excited that this vendor took credit cards (many do even if you are only buying a soda). Because I arrived at 2:30 in the morning, I didn’t have a chance to exchange currency to pay in cash). The soup was a little gelatinous in some parts and tasted acidic. But now, I think that has more to do with the numbing effect of the jambu.
I also ordered “Petisco da Tio Socorro” which is a local dish. It’s common in Brazil for eateries to use the term “Tio” (uncle in Portuguese and Spanish) into their names, often followed by a person’s name or nickname. The word “petisco” means an appetizer or snack in Brazilian cuisine. Using these clues, “Petisco da Tio Socorro” is a type of appetizer or snack specific to that particular vendor. No matter, it is fried dough with a thick sauce that reminded me of Indian gravy with shrimp in them. It was very good too.
I walked for a bit afterwards towards the center of Manaus. I have been increasing activity with my ankle throughout the past two days.
I saw the Unba sushi bar on my walk. I was still a little hungry and glad I stopped. They had the fish I wanted to try and even better as it was in a ceviche. Ceviche is “cooked” with an acidic sauce and one of my favorite dishes. The fish is called Arapaima gigas, also known as pirarucu.
Pirarucu is a freshwater fish native to the Amazon Basin. It is one of the largest freshwater fish species in the world and can grow up to 3 meters (which is 10 feet!). It can weigh 180 kg (which is around 400 pounds!). It is similar to cod or halibut and was delicious served with a thick sweetened soy sauce.
From the balcony of the sushi bar I thought I would be able to see the sunset but there were too many clouds that afternoon. Beautiful nonetheless.
The hotel I stayed in is called the Casa perpetua d charm in the centro histórico. Tall ceilings, old architecture, very beautiful….
After some searching through channels, I did find that they were showing the Superbowl! Or is in Portuguese but I can see the scores and the half time show. What they don’t show is all the commercials! I’ll see them on playback on my cable box when I get home.
Before I knew it, it was the start of a week break and I was off to fly to Brazil. I had planned to fly into Manaus, Brazil for two days and then spend five days in the Amazon. Of course an old injury in a ligament in my ankle happened the week before. I was now in a boot on my ankle butt made plans be careful before and during the trip.
At the airport in Quito.On the second flight I was able to get a row to myself to put my foot up for a bit.One of the first things I bought the next morning was Portuguese egg tarts. So amazing and delicious.
In Manaus, my hotel was close to Teatro Amazonas.
Teatro Amazonas is a historic opera house located in Manaus, Brazil which is in the heart of the Amazon. It was constructed during the late 1800’s during the rubber boom. At that time Manaus was one of the wealthiest cities in the world due to the rubber trade. It was designed by an Italian architect and is opulent with French and other European touches. You can see both Renaissance and Baroque influences. The dome is beautiful and covered in 36,000 ceramic tiles. The theater hosted numerous performances by renowned artists and became a cultural hub for the region. As with most landmarks, it fell into disrepair and was restored. Teatro Amazonas still hosts operas, concerts, and other events.
The pink fabric helped in soundproofing.The beautiful dune and chandelier in the concert hall.View from the balconies.The governor’s box surrounded by curtains.In the ballroom where the floor and materials found in the room are original.The ceiling of the ballroom.There chairs on the left are courting benches. Two single seats flank a wider bench in the center. The man and woman sit on the single chairs with their families in the middle. Across from them is a mirror. It is so designed so that you cannot see the other person in the couple but the families can see everything. Such an interesting custom.Outside the theater are really cute places.An old church.Inside the church.The square outside of the theater.Many beautiful buildings here.
The Provincial Palace is another historic building constructed during the rubber boom. The architecture is beautiful and served as the seat of the government of the state of Amazonas. There are displays of art in the downstairs.
The provincial palace.Statue of the three muses.Guarana is tasty and is an energy drink here. By afternoon I needed the caffeine.
In the centro historico is a bar on the Street of my hotel. It was called Gringo’s bar and they played 80’s music which is my jam. People were very friendly and I stopped to talk in Spanish. Summer people speak both Spanish and Portuguese. I had a beer and a sandwich while I waited for the rainstorm to pass.
Banana sandwich. A local bloque party which was pretty chill though it was early in the night yet by party standards.
