Spinning through the world
On the last day of the amazon vacation I took a boat to Panacoche lake to fish for piranha.
One last night hike…
Napo is a pretty special place and what makes it special is the community effort and commitment.
In the early morning, I went to the tower to look for the monkeys and birds that are active right at dawn.
After the sunrise hike and breakfast, we went to the cultural center to learn about the kichwa customs.
After lunch, we went back to the Añangu river to look for giant river otters. No luck today but we saw a lot of other cool things. I got to help row the canoe. The poor guide now knows I hate to sit still.
These coatimundi babies were trying to get across to where momma went. One went up one direction and the other climbed up a vine but fell down into the water – twice. Poor thing….
After dinner was a little night hike.
The clay lick at Yasuní (which in Spanish is called a saladero) is a natural mineral-rich area in the park where parrots, macaws, and other wildlife arrive to consume clay. This behavior helps them neutralize toxins found in their diet of fruits and seeds.
We woke up early in the morning to get there and see flocks of parakeets (yellow crowned, yellow tailed, and blue headed) in the first clay pit and macaws and parakeets in the second location. They eventually cover the walls of the clay banks and are something spectacular to watch. We were fortunate to not have to wait too long for the birds to arrive.
Along the way we saw other animals like this little owl.
Red howler monkey
This is the blue Morpho butterfly but the blue is on the inside of the wings. When it flies it is hard to get a good picture.
Poisonous mushroom.
Later in the afternoon I went to watch the sunset at the top of a very tall tower. Unfortunately there was a very hard rain before and fog covered over the area. I did see a red howler monkey pair.
The Napo Anangu community is an Indigenous Kichwa community. They are located in Yasuní National Park in the Ecuadorian Amazon. They are committed to conservation and sustainable ecotourism. They operate the Napo Wildlife Center, There is a lodge at the Napo wildlife center and also the Napo Cultural Center. Both are renowned eco-lodges that provides employment for locals and preserves the rainforest.
Yasuní National Park is a Biosphere Reserve, and is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth, The park contains vast oil reserves,which is troublesome as there is drilling in parts. There are also other groups of indigenous peoples who still remain uncontacted today.
The next morning we opted to pay for a different tour to the wildlife center in search of the giant river otter. In the video you can see it in the first few seconds. They are fast and elusive.
As we were watching red howler monkeys and a baby climbed a branch directly over our heads. As we were trying to get pictures we saw that it had started peeing. It missed but was pretty close to the boat. Mono travieso which means naughty monkey.
We saw a variety of monkeys on this trip and it was easier to capture videos than pictures.
Oswaldo Guayasamín was a renowned Ecuadorian painter and sculptor. His work focused on themes of social justice, human suffering, and oppression. His art was heavily influenced by the struggles of marginalized communities in Latin America, but also included global injustices from Asia. Guayasamín’s works are characterized by intense emotion, bold colors, and expressive forms, often depicting anguish and resilience and focusing on facial expressions and hands.
On his property is his house which is filled with pre-colombian artifacts and paintings from other artists around the world. He also created La Capilla del Hombre (The Chapel of Man) which is a museum dedicated to his art and a tribute to the human spirit. Both buildings stand on his property which was donated to Ecuador.
I went to Cuenca for another trip. Such a beautiful city here in Ecuador. Quiet and safe. Washing around there are many beautiful buildings and views.
I also wanted to find Christmas decorations.
This time in Cuenca I visited a few museums. One was devoted to fiber arts here in South America. Beautiful works made of fibers.
We took a half day tour to some of the areas in Cajas national park.
On the way back to Cuenca we asked the driver to put on the party lights (we were in a bus that also is used as a party bus). Of course we had a dance party on the bus. Pretty fun.
I also visited the municipal museum of Cuenca.
Other views of Cuenca.
The Pumapungo museum is an area with Incan ruins, artifacts, and a refuge for birds.
Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.
It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.” It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.
Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.
One morning I climbed to the top of one mirador to see views of the city.
We also walked to Parque Jiripa where there are many activities for families. After peddling the swan boat we walked around a bit.
Then we went in search for food at the Cueva de cangrejos (Crab cave). Delicious!
On the way to Vilcabamba was the parque podocarpus.
Parque Nacional Podocarpus, often referred to as the “Botanical Garden of America,” runs across the provinces of Loja and Zamora-Chinchipe. It is best k own for its incredible biodiversity, the park covers an impressive 1,500 square kilometers and varies in altitude from 900 to 3,600 meters (3,000 to 11,800 feet). This allows many diverse ecosystems to exist: lowland tropical forests to high-altitude páramos. The views here are amazing.
The park’s name comes from the Podocarpus tree, which is a type of conifer found in the cloud forests.
There are around 4,000 species of plants, many of which are rare or endemic. These include orchids, ferns, and giant bromeliads.
Unfortunately, we didn’t much wildlife, but somewhere there are spectacled bear, mountain tapir, and giant armadillo. We did see one bird, an Andean guan.
We stopped along the way to try some bread called bizcochuelo. It is much like a slightly sweet and a little drier spring cake. Paired with some sugar cane juice with naranjilla added to cut the sweetness.
We stopped to look at the church here and wander around to stretch our legs. I saw some coca cola flavored Oreos and had to try them! Yes, they had a hint of coca cola flavor and we’re quite tasty
This small town has a reputation for longevity among its residents. The name “Vilcabamba” comes from the indigenous Quechua language, meaning “Sacred Valley.” Now many expats and retirees live here and it draws international visitors who are interested in wellness, alternative medicine, and spirituality.
We had time afterwards to peruse the shops and street vendors. Before we knew it, it was time to return to Loja
It has been an interesting start of the year here in Ecuador. We have just now finished the first quarter of the year. Here is a recap.
Our bus stop was robbed early in the morning in the first week. American women are feisty: throwing hot tea in their face and running around. Pretty scary but we were glad they did not have a gun and didn’t stick around long. They didn’t get anything from us but did take a phone from another friend.
A historic drought has left power disruption here in Ecuador. All of their power is hydroelectric. There have been power cuts up to 14 hours a day and though it took a little time to adjust, one can make the most of time without power. I have been walking with a weighted backpack for an extra workout and to get used to walking with a full pack. Timing showers and laundry means being flexible and I am glad I have a gas stove. Making sure anything you want to do on the phone is downloaded and everything is charged. Recently I put up my Christmas tree with 4 strands of battery operated lights. It helps to illuminate and not use as many candles. I look for any excuse to put up the tree but it was a good choice!
Mindo
The annual bike ride to Mindo was in September. I didn’t ride, but instead went there to hang out with others. I stayed at the biohostal and could watch birds from the veranda.
One activity I have not done here is to hike the waterfalls
It was a beautiful 9 km hike!
Mindo night hike
This is another hike I wanted to do in Mindo. I did get to see a glass frog but no reptiles.
I have been really lax in writing about things. It is like every start of a school year where there is a lot going on. I am looking forward to more relaxing times ahead.
Get togethers
Swan lake ballet
Celebrating Monica and Paul’s wedding
Get together in the Historical district
Isabela Island is the largest island in the Galapagos. Isabela was formed by the merging of six large shield volcanoes: Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin, Ecuador, Sierra Negra, and Wolf. It is relatively young with an estimated age of around 1 million years. It was named after Queen Isabela I from Castile.
Of the three islands it is pretty chill and a great place to relax.
The island is known for its rich biodiversity, including several species of tortoises, iguanas, penguins, and flightless cormorants.
Las Tintoreras tour
Our guide took us on a boat around the harbor, then on a part of the island that is volcanic rock. From here there are underground tunnels or tubes from flows of lava to snorkel in and see turtles, sharks, and penguins.
I didn’t snorkel but did give my camera to the guide. I might have to come back again since I have found how to move around the islands. Here are some videos from the snorkeling.
Sierra Negra Volcano, which has one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. Its just eruption was in 2018 and each eruption gives valuable information on impact. It is a shield volcano with broad and slow rising slopes and lava flows with less velocity. The caldera is 10 km wide. The volcano collapsed into the caldera and subsequent lava flows have changed the landscape more.
The hike is 16 km total and goes out then back around part of the rim.
Poza de los flamingos
During the early 1900s, the Ecuadorian government used the island as a penal colony, known as Puerto Villamil (the current capital). Prisoners were put to work on various projects, including building the “Wall of Tears,” (Muro de las lágrimas) a large wall constructed from lava rocks. I rented a bike for $10 for the day, brought food with me and had a great 4 hours looking around the area.
It is best to bike all the way out to the wall and then stop at all the other lookouts on the way back.
After that I went to pearl concha, where many go to snorkel.
Then a rest at the pink iguana.
Isabela Island is the main focus of conservation efforts in the Galapagos. Programs are in place to protect the endemic species and restore habitats that have been affected by invasive species and human activity.
Goats were one of the most destructive invasive species. They degraded the habitat by overgrazing, which led to soil erosion and the destruction of native vegetation. This impacted native tortoise populations. Donkeys also contributed to this problem.
Pigs, introduced by humans, preyed on the eggs and hatchlings of native reptiles, such as tortoises and iguanas.
Black rats and Norway rats were introduced accidentally by ships. They prey on eggs and hatchlings of birds and reptiles.
Feral cats have been a significant predator of native wildlife, including birds, iguanas, and young tortoises. Their hunting behavior has caused declines in many native species. Dogs likewise are a problem.
An invasive insects, such as the Philornis downsi fly affected birds. The larvae of this fly parasitize the nestlings of many bird species, causing high mortality rates.
Blackberry and guava plants outcompete the native species and grow too thick.
The aggressive eradication of most of these allowed the tortoise population to increase.