Oswaldo Guayasamín was a renowned Ecuadorian painter and sculptor. His work focused on themes of social justice, human suffering, and oppression. His art was heavily influenced by the struggles of marginalized communities in Latin America, but also included global injustices from Asia. Guayasamín’s works are characterized by intense emotion, bold colors, and expressive forms, often depicting anguish and resilience and focusing on facial expressions and hands.
On his property is his house which is filled with pre-colombian artifacts and paintings from other artists around the world. He also created La Capilla del Hombre (The Chapel of Man) which is a museum dedicated to his art and a tribute to the human spirit. Both buildings stand on his property which was donated to Ecuador.
Various emotions of war. Notice the coffin shape creating a background.His unfinished ceiling in the chapel. He died before its completion.Flame dedicated to the human spirit.I watched a video of the artist creating this painting and he is truly an artist. He did not work with brushes, rather a palette knife instead.
I went to Cuenca for another trip. Such a beautiful city here in Ecuador. Quiet and safe. Washing around there are many beautiful buildings and views.
I also wanted to find Christmas decorations.
This time in Cuenca I visited a few museums. One was devoted to fiber arts here in South America. Beautiful works made of fibers.
We took a half day tour to some of the areas in Cajas national park.
The highest chocolate shoppe.
On the way back to Cuenca we asked the driver to put on the party lights (we were in a bus that also is used as a party bus). Of course we had a dance party on the bus. Pretty fun.
I also visited the municipal museum of Cuenca.
Other views of Cuenca.
A little Christmas market.I found a shop that made homemade hot chocolate. I watched Home Alone in Spanish while I drank the chocolate
The Pumapungo museum is an area with Incan ruins, artifacts, and a refuge for birds.
Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.
It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.” It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.
Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.
A flashmob thriller dance in the airport.Our Airbnb is above here in El panacillo.View when walking early morning This old deteriorating car was interesting Two entwined birds sculptureLoja city letters near the gate to the cityThe gate to the city The gate from the other side The thinker… Ecuadorian styleView from the gate into the cityView from the top tower of the gateOutside the tower we saw the city tour bus. We were able to get on the tour and see buildings we would want to go back toAn obelisk in a round about Simón Bolívar parkFor día de los muertos, they sell colada morada and guagua de pan. It is a sweet fruit and corn flour drink. The bread is filled with a lightly sweet filling. I did go back to get a bread later. This photo taken from the top of the city tour bus.Catholic cathedral. Today was día de los muertos and the service is in honor of family members.Independence square also known as San Sebastián square.Plaza de San Francisco Inside the music museum.Calle de los Lourdes.View from the top of El panecillo looking towards the historical district.
One morning I climbed to the top of one mirador to see views of the city.
We also walked to Parque Jiripa where there are many activities for families. After peddling the swan boat we walked around a bit.
Then we went in search for food at the Cueva de cangrejos (Crab cave). Delicious!
On the way to Vilcabamba was the parque podocarpus.
Parque Podocarpus
Parque Nacional Podocarpus, often referred to as the “Botanical Garden of America,” runs across the provinces of Loja and Zamora-Chinchipe. It is best k own for its incredible biodiversity, the park covers an impressive 1,500 square kilometers and varies in altitude from 900 to 3,600 meters (3,000 to 11,800 feet). This allows many diverse ecosystems to exist: lowland tropical forests to high-altitude páramos. The views here are amazing.
The park’s name comes from the Podocarpus tree, which is a type of conifer found in the cloud forests.
There are around 4,000 species of plants, many of which are rare or endemic. These include orchids, ferns, and giant bromeliads.
Unfortunately, we didn’t much wildlife, but somewhere there are spectacled bear, mountain tapir, and giant armadillo. We did see one bird, an Andean guan.
A snack along the way
We stopped along the way to try some bread called bizcochuelo. It is much like a slightly sweet and a little drier spring cake. Paired with some sugar cane juice with naranjilla added to cut the sweetness.
Malacatos
We stopped to look at the church here and wander around to stretch our legs. I saw some coca cola flavored Oreos and had to try them! Yes, they had a hint of coca cola flavor and we’re quite tasty
Vilcabamba
This small town has a reputation for longevity among its residents. The name “Vilcabamba” comes from the indigenous Quechua language, meaning “Sacred Valley.” Now many expats and retirees live here and it draws international visitors who are interested in wellness, alternative medicine, and spirituality.
Yes, the water was very cold but maybe this imparts longevity too?Sopa verde. Very fresh with peas.Pescado. Excellent fish!We were serenaded by a street musician.
We had time afterwards to peruse the shops and street vendors. Before we knew it, it was time to return to Loja
It has been an interesting start of the year here in Ecuador. We have just now finished the first quarter of the year. Here is a recap.
Our bus stop was robbed early in the morning in the first week. American women are feisty: throwing hot tea in their face and running around. Pretty scary but we were glad they did not have a gun and didn’t stick around long. They didn’t get anything from us but did take a phone from another friend.
A historic drought has left power disruption here in Ecuador. All of their power is hydroelectric. There have been power cuts up to 14 hours a day and though it took a little time to adjust, one can make the most of time without power. I have been walking with a weighted backpack for an extra workout and to get used to walking with a full pack. Timing showers and laundry means being flexible and I am glad I have a gas stove. Making sure anything you want to do on the phone is downloaded and everything is charged. Recently I put up my Christmas tree with 4 strands of battery operated lights. It helps to illuminate and not use as many candles. I look for any excuse to put up the tree but it was a good choice!
Mindo
The annual bike ride to Mindo was in September. I didn’t ride, but instead went there to hang out with others. I stayed at the biohostal and could watch birds from the veranda.
One activity I have not done here is to hike the waterfalls
It was a beautiful 9 km hike!
On the way back out I met one of my colleagues Nadine. Many people from my school came to mindo that weekend.The megaswing that was quite a lot of fun.
Mindo night hike
This is another hike I wanted to do in Mindo. I did get to see a glass frog but no reptiles.
CentipedeGlass frog with the light above.Glass frog with the light below.This bird is called Rufus mutt mutt. It’s the only bird here that eats poisonous things.
I have been really lax in writing about things. It is like every start of a school year where there is a lot going on. I am looking forward to more relaxing times ahead.
Isabela Island is the largest island in the Galapagos. Isabela was formed by the merging of six large shield volcanoes: Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin, Ecuador, Sierra Negra, and Wolf. It is relatively young with an estimated age of around 1 million years. It was named after Queen Isabela I from Castile.
Sunrise on Santa Cruz before leaving for Isabela on the ferry
Of the three islands it is pretty chill and a great place to relax.
The island is known for its rich biodiversity, including several species of tortoises, iguanas, penguins, and flightless cormorants.
Las Tintoreras tour
Our guide took us on a boat around the harbor, then on a part of the island that is volcanic rock. From here there are underground tunnels or tubes from flows of lava to snorkel in and see turtles, sharks, and penguins.
I didn’t snorkel but did give my camera to the guide. I might have to come back again since I have found how to move around the islands. Here are some videos from the snorkeling.
Sierra Negra Volcano, which has one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. Its just eruption was in 2018 and each eruption gives valuable information on impact. It is a shield volcano with broad and slow rising slopes and lava flows with less velocity. The caldera is 10 km wide. The volcano collapsed into the caldera and subsequent lava flows have changed the landscape more.
The hike is 16 km total and goes out then back around part of the rim.
The crater where the dome collapsed and lava flows continued after later eruptionsA couple of friends from Quito were also here in the GalapagosThis is actually one of the youngest islands in the Galapagos. Fernandina is only a few kilometers away from Isabela and is one of the most active volcanoes here.It is amazing to see such different rocks from each kind of lava flow and life here.Darwin finchVermillion flycatcherYellow warblerDarwin finch
Poza de los flamingos
During the early 1900s, the Ecuadorian government used the island as a penal colony, known as Puerto Villamil (the current capital). Prisoners were put to work on various projects, including building the “Wall of Tears,” (Muro de las lágrimas) a large wall constructed from lava rocks. I rented a bike for $10 for the day, brought food with me and had a great 4 hours looking around the area.
It is best to bike all the way out to the wall and then stop at all the other lookouts on the way back.
Mirador cerro ochillaCamino de tortugael estero that goes through the mangroveThe mangrove Even the iguanas know how to stay on the right side of the road.At Poza escondida. This finch loved my bike tire. Poza redondaTúnel del estero. Formed when lava flows cooled on the outside to make a tube. The inside lava continued to flow out.Playas del amor, iguana egg laying siteMirador los tunesPozas verdesLa playita
After that I went to pearl concha, where many go to snorkel.
Then a rest at the pink iguana.
Isabela Island is the main focus of conservation efforts in the Galapagos. Programs are in place to protect the endemic species and restore habitats that have been affected by invasive species and human activity.
Goats were one of the most destructive invasive species. They degraded the habitat by overgrazing, which led to soil erosion and the destruction of native vegetation. This impacted native tortoise populations. Donkeys also contributed to this problem.
Pigs, introduced by humans, preyed on the eggs and hatchlings of native reptiles, such as tortoises and iguanas.
Black rats and Norway rats were introduced accidentally by ships. They prey on eggs and hatchlings of birds and reptiles.
Feral cats have been a significant predator of native wildlife, including birds, iguanas, and young tortoises. Their hunting behavior has caused declines in many native species. Dogs likewise are a problem.
An invasive insects, such as the Philornis downsi fly affected birds. The larvae of this fly parasitize the nestlings of many bird species, causing high mortality rates.
Blackberry and guava plants outcompete the native species and grow too thick.
The aggressive eradication of most of these allowed the tortoise population to increase.
In the morning I went back to Tortuga Bay. It is a lovely 3.5 km walk to get to the sheltered bay. I had a group tour in the afternoon so this was a perfect start to the day.
Brunch was at a restaurant I had been wanting to go to. They also had brujo, known as scorpion fish which I had to try. It was delicious and I saved half for breakfast the next day. I will be leaving on the 7 am ferry to go to Isabela.
El Chato Tortoise Reserve
Most of the island is a protected reserve. In some areas there are farms but a lot of the land is used by tortoises to roam freely. They spend their time grazing and when it is time to lay eggs, they head to the lowlands and the sand.
On a farm near the reserveThis is a male Tortuga.This little duck had been swimming around and wanted to just sleep. He was annoyed but did after I took his picture.Water is used for temperature regulation.
Twin Craters (Los Gemelos)
The Gemelos (the twins) Craters are in the center in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island. They are a pair of large sinkholes formed by collapsed magma chambers. The vegetation in the area are Scalesia forest that contain plant species found only in the galapagos. It is a reminder that these islands were formed from past volcanic activity.
Galapagos dove with the characteristic blue eyes compared to other dove species.Mocking bird which originally intrigued Darwin on his visit to a different island.
Lava tubes
The lava tunnels are underground tubes formed by flowing lava during volcanic eruptions. They form when the surface of a lava flow cools and hardens but the molten lava beneath still flows away. The result is a hollow tunnel. This tunnel goes for kilometers but sections have collapsed. This section is still accessible.
Santa Cruz is the second largest island in the Galapagos Archipelago. It is around 1.5 million years old. It is one of the younger islands in the Galapagos.
The island was named Santa Cruz, meaning “Holy Cross”. It was also called Indefatigable by the British after HMS Indefatigable. The Galapagos Islands were used by whalers and buccaneers as a base for their operations. There are many islands in the archipelago. Darwin did not visit Santa Cruz.
The Charles Darwin Research Station was Founded in 1959, after petitions internationally we’re Made to preserve the islands. Many changes had occurred and due to human activity and invasive species, native species were endangered. Now 97% of the entire Galapagos is for preservation and research. People live on only 3%. Tours can access several areas on a limited basis. Conservation remains a priority to protect its unique flora and fauna.
Sea lion living it’s best life on the San Cristobal pier
Getting from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz was easy with an approximate 2 hour ferry.
Tortuga Bay
This was an easy 35 minute walk from the center of town through the park. Many lizards and birds hop on and off the path.
The bay is used for surfers and it’s too rough for swimming, but if you walk to the other end of the beach, the path curves towards a sheltered bay.
The marine iguanas can be seen here. They only go in the water when they want to feed on the algae on the rocks. Their noses are blunt for this purpose and their claws and limbs are adapted for this purpose. This is the only marine iguana in the world. When they sneeze on land, they are sneezing out the excess salt from their dive!
Here you can snorkel, swim, or rent a kayak. Lots of wildlife can be seen from the kayak.
Yellow warbler
The Darwin research station
Outside the research station is a little building where you can purchase a tour with a naturalist. It gives you more access to the station. While you wait there is an artist area across the street that leads to the Bay.
At the station I saw the turtle breeding program area. They breed and monitor the eggs then when they hatch, they keep them for 5 years before releasing into the wild. They mimic the requirements needed for that time. By controlling egg incubation temperatures, they can ensure enough males and females.
These tortugas are 100 years old.
At the information center we saw lonesome George, the last of his specific breed of tortoise. Many of the rest of his species had been smuggled out of the Galapagos and despite reward offerings to give one up for a mating partner, no one responded. When he died, they had him taxidermied.
After walking around a little longer, I went to the Bay at the research station.
A friend from school had just arrived at the island. We walked around at the gift shops and looked for sharks at the pier.
I love how they put orange cones around for people to maintain distance. This is a little sea lion pup.
I booked a tour to go look for the red footed boobies which can only be seen on two islands in the Galapagos. San Cristobal is one of them. It was an amazing day.
Dolphins
As we made our way to kicker rock, we spotted a pod of dolphins which swam and frolicked with our boat.
Kicker rock or sleepy lion (Leo dormido)
This is actually a formation that is part of San Cristobal and not a separate island.Can you see the lion face here?Nazca boobySea lion pup resting out of the water. Because of his light color, he has been out of the water for 5 hours.Nasco boobie to the left and Blue footed boobie is on the right.Blue footed boobie.Another sea lion pup
And another sea lion pup.Frigate bird. They try to steal food from the boobies. The boobies are expert divers and the frigates are not. They will also try to get little sea iguanas.
Snorkeling
For the record, I did not snorkel. I had cataract surgery a few weeks ago and being in water is not allowed for 3 months. Though I did still brinh my own snorkel and mask, it is not worth the risk. I did bring my 360 camera which the naturalist took for me. For this time of year, the water was actually pretty clear and many of the must-see animals put on a show.
Punta Pitt
This is a part of San Cristobal island that you cannot get to any other way except by boat. Here you can find the red footed booby. It was a nice 2 km hike and beautiful as only so many tours can be here at a time.
Here are some interesting facts about the Nazca, Red-footed, and Blue-footed boobies:
Nazca Booby
These birds have a white body with black-tipped wings and tail with a distinctive black mask around their eyes. They feed on fish and squid caught by diving from significant heights. They have serious sibling rivalry, where usually only one chick survives. They nest on the ground in large colonies and have a courtship dance that includes bill clapping.
Red-footed Booby
They have two variations: White or brown body with brown being more common. They have bright red feet and a blue beak and face. They also feed on fish and squid in the same manner and fly fast. They nest in trees, unlike other boobies that nest on the ground. They only lay one egg. They have a courtship ritual of head shaking and giving sticks.
This juvenile red footed booby landed on our boat before we were at the beach.
Blue-footed Booby
They have bright blue feet that are part of their mating ritual. The brighter the blue shoes they are healthy and they attract more mates. They have a high stepping dance that shows off their feet. They have a brownish body and a pale blue beak. They catch sardines and anchovies by plunge-diving. They nest on the ground, and lay two or three eggs. They spread guano in a circle so the egg and the baby chicks blend in.
The ring of guano around the nestIf you look carefully there is an egg just underneath and just in front of the wing.
Frigates
They nest in trees and are always near the boobies or circling over head to prey on the fledgling boobies.
We also saw a great blue heron.
The views of and around the island were gorgeous.
A lizard. He stopped to pose for me.
And of course the sea lions. They are so fun to watch. Expressive, curious, and playful.
San Cristobal is one of the oldest islands in the Galapagos Archipelago. All the islands in the Galapagos were formed by volcanic activity. It is one of the easternmost islands and the closest to Ecuador mainland. It is estimated to be between 2.4 to 4 million years old.
The Galapagos Islands were discovered in 1535 by the Bishop of Panama, Fray Tomás de Berlanga. San Cristobal was named after St. Christopher, the patron saint of seafarers.
It was the first of the islands to be inhabited and served as a penal colony by the Ecuadorian government in the 1900s. Charles Darwin visited in 1835.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, San Cristobal had sugar and coffee plantations as well as fishing. Now it is the capital of the Galapagos Province.
As a tourist destination, there are strict conservation regulations to preserve its ecosystems and wildlife. When you arrive at the airport in Quito (or Guayaquil), a special visa and scanning of luggage is needed as well.
La Lobería
The name for the beach means “Place of the sea wolfs”. Lobería is shortened from lobos mariños which is what the sea lions are called in Spanish. The beach is 3 km from the town and is a nice walk there and back .
Along the shore of the port is the malecón. The walkway is beautiful with restaurants and shops.
A protest was happening as I was looking for a spot for dinner. Here in Ecuador, the protests are led by a police car as it is their right to protest peacefully.
And of course, there are more sea lions. Dinner if the sea lions have moved to other parts of the island including the port.
The young are still nursing.
The fish I ate was amazing and freshly caught. It was delicious. Tomorrow is bird watching…
