hiking – HurricaneMaine

The Way to Santiago

I arrived in Santiago de Compostela by train and met my friend, Maggie. Our intention: to complete the Camino de Santiago from Sarria. 115 km with a 7 kg pack. We left the rest of our belongings in Santiago for when we return.

Some background: James was one of the apostles who was a martyr and was beheaded. His head was buried in Jerusalem but his body was taken by boat guided by an angel to Santiago where it was buried. In the 9th century, his room mains were discovered and a church was ordered to be erected at the site. His remains are interred in the church. When news of the discovery of his remains spread far and wide, religious people made the pilgrimage to Santiago. Some of these routes may have already been trade routes, but the paths were followed by others over the centuries and are known as the Camino de Santiago. There are quite a few paths over many countries.

I thought the Camino Frances would be good as there are many stopping points and it was the original one I wanted to do. Initially I was going to do the complete Camino Frances, walking over the Pyrenees and across the top of Spain for a total of 780 km.

Recovery from the knee replacement is proceeding but I am limited in how many km I can walk in a day. We averaged about 10-15 km per day and it still was a test of mental, physical, and spiritual strength.

Along the way were markers that counted down the km and had a yellow arrow to show the way.

Some people use a carry service for their backpacks. In life, you are responsible for yourself and what you carry. It is the same on the Camino and people often pack too much and leave something along the way to lighten the load. Quite a good life metaphor, right?

The shell is a symbol of having been changed as part of the experience. While walking, many things did not seem as important as they used to and you are reminded that you are only able to change things that are within your control. Not a new lesson, but a constant daily reminder.

I did a lot of research in preventing blisters, using Vaseline on my feet before adding socks, wearing two lighter socks, etc. I also used hiking poles to help reduce the weight on my knees and feet. It also helps you with better posture when walking with a pack. All the people that we met on the camino were encouraging for us and we to them as well. No one truly walks alone.

We stayed at albergues each night. Bunk beds in mixed dorm rooms and the price was quite cheap (15-20 euros per night). It was quite fine as everyone was tired. Pretty much everyone was asleep by 9 pm and people started leaving around 6 am. We generally left when it was light out just after 8. Some places had family dinners which were quite fun with the stories and personalities from people all over the world.

The Celtic influence is large in Galicia and bagpipes can be heard as pilgrims enter the square. The man offered a special stamp with a donation. We ate lunch while listening to him. You must collect 2 stamps a day to get the official certificate (Compostela) at the end.

In Portomarin, we had already walked 18 km and were greeted by these stairs….

We attended a pilgrims mass at one of the towns.

In Arzua, the albergue had a basket of statements you could randomly choose. This was mine….

We loved the little hand door knocker…

In this little town, we took the path to the right where you could put your feet into the cold water. Heavenly after walking for some time.

And finally, we were done….

We also attended the pilgrims mass in the cathedral.

The Botafumeiro has been used since the Middle Ages to help remove smells from the cathedral (not much bathing back then). Today it is a tradition in Santiago and we were privileged to see it.

The start of my last year of teaching

It has been an interesting start of the year here in Ecuador. We have just now finished the first quarter of the year. Here is a recap.

Our bus stop was robbed early in the morning in the first week. American women are feisty: throwing hot tea in their face and running around. Pretty scary but we were glad they did not have a gun and didn’t stick around long. They didn’t get anything from us but did take a phone from another friend.

A historic drought has left power disruption here in Ecuador. All of their power is hydroelectric. There have been power cuts up to 14 hours a day and though it took a little time to adjust, one can make the most of time without power. I have been walking with a weighted backpack for an extra workout and to get used to walking with a full pack. Timing showers and laundry means being flexible and I am glad I have a gas stove. Making sure anything you want to do on the phone is downloaded and everything is charged. Recently I put up my Christmas tree with 4 strands of battery operated lights. It helps to illuminate and not use as many candles. I look for any excuse to put up the tree but it was a good choice!

Mindo

The annual bike ride to Mindo was in September. I didn’t ride, but instead went there to hang out with others. I stayed at the biohostal and could watch birds from the veranda.

One activity I have not done here is to hike the waterfalls

It was a beautiful 9 km hike!

On the way back out I met one of my colleagues Nadine. Many people from my school came to mindo that weekend.

The megaswing that was quite a lot of fun.

Mindo night hike

This is another hike I wanted to do in Mindo. I did get to see a glass frog but no reptiles.

I have been really lax in writing about things. It is like every start of a school year where there is a lot going on. I am looking forward to more relaxing times ahead.

Get togethers

Watching the presidential debate together.

Swan lake ballet

Celebrating Monica and Paul’s wedding

Get together in the Historical district

Family

I usually only come home once a year and then spend time traveling between family members. Here in PA there were some hikes, bike rides, and fun runs (walks for me).

Most of the time it is Sunni and I trying to stay out of trouble…

Stop at Brady’s bend after lunch with Mom

I spent one day with my friend Michele Belak which started with a morning race and ended with an evening race on the trails here in PA. In between we drove back and forth and stopped to see her horse. It was good to catch up with her. In the past, we used to meet at several races over the summer. It was great to catch up with her and hear about the people we worked with at Citizens Ambulance when we were in college.

One night Ryan and I rode bikes in an event called critical mass. Over 100 people participated in a 24 mile ride through the streets of Pittsburgh. The point is to take back the roads from cars and bring awareness that bikes have rights also. Here we are headed to the start of the ride.

Ryan and I also hiked some trails near Kittanning. They are small trails but very quiet and peaceful.

Afterwards we biked through the city of Pittsburgh from the north side to the south side along the trails and the rivers.

Another road trip was to take my dad’s ashes to Buffalo and Erie. We visited the graves of my grandparents and stopped to see Duann, a friend from childhood.

An event in Pittsburgh called picklesburgh also took place. Fun having some pickle egg rolls, pickle fudge, and other things.

And of course I played with everyone’s cats. This is the baby of Sunni’s and is a Maine coon.

Some random pictures from Western Pennsylvania.

Nature walk

We stopped to walk in a different jungle and pick up some survival tips. I think there would be a lot of things to worry about.

Our guide used the machete to scrape against the tree and these gigantic ants came running out from the ground. These are bullet ants. They contain a neurotoxin in their sting that last for some time.

This tree (*Costus igneous*) is actually a medicine for diabetes.

This is a species of eucalyptus that when cut has a resin that is used to start fires even if the wood is wet. We actually used some of this tree bark to start our campfire on the overnight hike.

A fun hike, glad we did not get close to the bullet ants.

Cotopaxi and Pichincha

Ryan and I traveled to Secret Garden in Cotopaxi. It was easy as they transferred you from the Secret Garden in Quito to the one near the volcano. It is an active volcano but lessening in activity over the last year.

Secret Garden

Secret Garden is an amazing hostal. We started in the hobbit house which was for a single or family. The food was amazing and there is so much to eat and the views were incredible.

They have llamas that love bananas. Since they are an everyday snack to take at will, there are many skins saved here for the llamas that we are encouraged to feed. This one comes running.

Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi is in the Andes Mountains of Ecuador and is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is 5,897 meters (19,347 feet) high, and its almost perfect cone shape at the summit always has snow. The volcano is part of the Cotopaxi National Park. From the hostal, you can see it and two other volcanoes.

Though it is still active, climbing can occur up to the glacier but not to the summit.

This is Ruminahui which is a dormant and heavily eroded volcano. Climbing it requires rock climbing.

Iliniza north and south volcanoes. These twin mountains are literally 1 km from each other.

Pasachoa is another notable peak near the hostal but with my knee still not at 100%, it was not worth the risk. Ryan went on that hike though.

The paramo

A paramo is a unique high-altitude ecosystem found in the Andes Mountains, and is found between 3,000 and 4,500 meters (9,800 to 14,800 feet) in elevation. It is alpine tundra. The vegetation is grasses and shrubs that are adapted to the harsh environmental conditions. Temperatures can be cold and the weather changes drastically. The UV radiation here is high. Paramos play a crucial role in regulating water. Paramos support diverse wildlife, including unique bird species and mammals adapted to the challenging mountain environment. The horses and llamas here are wild.

I took a horse back riding tour across the paramo. It was amazing and very beautiful.

We stopped to have a snack midway through the hike.

Cotopaxi glacier

The glacier is at an altitude of 5100 m or 16732 ft. It was tough in breathing but not very difficult. The volcanic ash made for summer find descending back down.

Ryan rented a bike to ride down from part of the volcano.

Pichincha

Earlier in the week we went to Pichincha which is not far from my house and the city. It is an active volcano but the part that you can climb is not active. We did not climb the whole route but had impressive views of the city.

Papallacta

For a relaxing long weekend, I went with my friend Susan to papallacta. The town is located in the Ecuadorian Andes about 40 miles outside of Quito.

We left after school but since both of us work in different schools we left through the center of the city. Unfortunately there was a very bad accident that backed up traffic for over six hours. Even though there was a way to finally get off and go through to the other side of town, Quito has a policy that there is one day in the week each person cannot drive through the city from 4 to 9 pm. It is called pico y placa. Our driver could not go back to the city as the number on his plate does not allow him to drive during those hours on Friday. Eventually we were able to move far enough along to get off on a different exit. We eventually made it there much later than anticipated. *They actually did suspend this policy but we were not able to turn around after a certain time.

The hotel we stayed at was Mamallacta Paramor and is located 200 m from the thermal hot springs at Termas. This area has lots of hot springs due to volcanic activity but that place is the best and most expensive. We were able to get a day pass and also book a hot stone massage for much cheaper than staying at the expensive place. It is worth it. I loved my stay there and will definitely go back.

The food was delicious and the people so helpful.

The hotel is very artistic with some amazing touches throughout. It is beautiful.

They even have an opening in the upper floors for the birds who come in can leave. This one forgot how it entered.

I made a new friend Lenny, the burro. He was not as friendly at first but after I fed him clover he accepted hugs and pets on the neck and face. He actually brayed at me rather loudly when I left but did not give him clover. Of course I stopped and did as he asked.

Besides the hot springs we took several hikes through the forests and along the roads. Beautiful and relaxing!

The area is surrounded by farmland. Besides cows there were plenty of sheep and of course llamas.

We decided to come back a day early and given the traffic into papallacta it was probably a good idea. Many people finally made it to the hot springs. We visited friends who are moving back to the states. It was a lovely way to end the vacation. Their view from their balcony in Guapulo (South Quito) is amazing.

Quilotoa

What a great group of people I work with. There is often a suggestion for a trip that someone starts and quickly a group is put together. This weekend was a trip to Quilotoa. We rented a can to pick us up from school and after around 3 hours we arrived at the black sheep inn.

The drive there was amazing with all of the vistas.

Our destination is way out in the distance.

Black sheep inn is an eco hostel that serves vegetarian food only and focused on nature and preserving and conserving resources. They have a great facility and full meals and snacks all day long. Add in massages, helping with transport to hikes, games and things to do.

Beautiful lodge for meals and gathering.

The bunk house with quad rooms to share.

Single house with private bathroom. All others are shared. This is where I stayed as I love privacy and sleep as I am a very light sleeper.

It did get chilly here at night as it is 1000 feet higher than Quito. It is a little cooler here.

Composting toilet. It is a pit toilet that you sprinkle bits of leaves etc. for composting.

Private shower with hot water.
Worth the extra 40 dollars a night.

They have one very friendly cat, named Choco who loved to hang out around my house.

On Saturday, trucks picked us up to go to Quilotoa. The ride had some other great views of mountains. These two peaks are husband and wife, esposo y esposa called Ilinazas.

Quilotoa is a water-filled caldera and is one of the must do hikes in Ecuador. The caldera was formed 800 years ago when the cone of the volcano collapsed during a massive eruption. Over the centuries, the caldera filled with water, and now you can hike along the rim of the beautiful crater lake.

The surrounding area is also home to several indigenous communities that have lived in the region for centuries, mainly the Kichwa. They have a rich culture and history and still practice traditional farming. I love how they maintain a deep connection to the land and the natural resources. Of course they have built structures to support and encourage tourism.

The hike is pretty difficult. It is 1000 meters above Quito so the air is thinner. It is also a pretty difficult hike with the ascents and descents. I decided to do one kilometer and then turn back. The full hike of the rim is 5 hours. I chose instead to hike down to the bottom of the crater and back up.

Carrie decided not to do the full hike with me and we headed back to hike down the crater.

At the start of the hike we were all together.

Three dogs followed us and continued most of the way. I think they smelled our lunches we carried.

The path from the top where I am standing down to the bottom is 2 km, steep and lots of loose gravel on a path that switches back and forth.

There were llamas to get pictures with and mules or horses to take you back up.

The path up was very steep and loose gravel of course. We were not in any hurry as our friends were taking a long hike. So we stopped often to take long breaks.

Finally we made it to the top.

At the bottom we met Mario who we spoke to in Spanish. We decided to all have beers since we decided to hike up. He took a mule

A band playing right before we were leaving.

Sunrise the next morning.

The town of Chugchilan is where the inn is at. I walked around the last morning to look at buildings and people.

A great weekend with amazing people. When Carrie and I left the group, everyone hugged and we were wished a safe journey back. People are very friendly and caring

Tongling Canyon and Detian Waterfall (and I miss Vietnam)

Our first place to visit was Tongling Canyon. There were several checkpoints and the road was along a river where you could see much barbed wire. We were right along the border to Vietnam.

The canyon was average with a waterfall. It was great to be in nature. The rain which was heavy earlier stopped as we began the hike. After 4km of walking the highlight was walking behind the waterfall. Of course we were not supposed to be there. It was roped off as a lot of rain made it too dangerous to go behind…..

A butterfly was intent to stay landed on my leg and feet….. I’m easily amused.

After lunch at a nearby restaurant, we headed to Detian Waterfall. It is on the border between China and Vietnam.

We waved at people across the river and they waved back! So exciting…. It was sad as we all want to visit other countries but can’t… We really miss that.

The boats only run from the Vietnam side.

This is considered the Niagara falls of Asia.

We took a special escalator to the top where there were awesome views and a great slide to get back to the bottom. It was pretty fun.

You put on these great pants which helped you go down the slide much faster….

Some of us chilling at the bottom waiting for others.

On the way back, you could see the houses and people in Vietnam.

An end of the day dip in the pool, barbeque, and beer rounded out the day.

Guangdong Grand Canyon, Shaoguan and back to Huanghua

We stayed in great cabins by the lake and at the top of the Grand Canyon (where the waterfall begins).

We then started the descent into the Grand canyon. Lots of stairs and very steep declines. Fresh air and exercise: a perfect combination.

There is a hydroelectric station at the bottom with a way to move huge equipment.

On the climb back up we crossed a barrier and took a plunge in the very cool water.

We found this cool insect of the family Flatidae. They are leaf hoppers that suck the sap from the phloem of plants. It is peculiar add it looks like a flower on top.

Finally at the top of the canyon again.

One of my friends had to get a COVID test as she was missing the one being taken she requested from her apartment building that morning. As we were going by Huanghua again, we stopped there for her test, ate lunch, and then took a bike ride.

We ate at the same restaurant that smokes chicken. They also cook corn that way. Yummy!

We rode bikes through the village. It was a beautiful day and a nice ending to the trip. We were to have the bike ride on the second morning but could not with inclement weather.

Moliu mountain in Qingyuan and Ruyuan scenic spot

This is a May holiday here in China. Our school has the weekend plus Monday off even though the Chinese holiday lasts until the 5th. It means we return before the traffic is large! Due to some outbreaks of COVID in China, travel out of the province is discouraged. There are some beautiful scenery and hiking here in Guangdong still worthy of exploring. Yingde and Shaoguan is a beautiful area.

After a few hours driving early on Saturday, our small group arrived in Huanghua (“yellow flower”) to take a COVID test. We already had one to travel but needed another less than 24 hours to go to the scenic spot on the second day. We then continued to the mountain.

These mountains are called karst formations. The limestone wears away from underground water making the unique landforms. They are more prevalent in other areas. The connected mountains give a wavy landscape view and are called the wavy mountains. We hiked up and then down for 8 hours.

At the top, another hiking group was dancing while their drone was filming. They asked us to join. I took this picture from behind them after we joined in.

Also at the top you could buy water and tofu dessert with ginger. Yum.

The pony helps bring supplies up the mountain.

Heping village is at the base of the mountain where we ended the hike. The climb up was steep and the down muddy and with rocks but it was fun. Great to be out in nature and smell fresh air.

We then walked to a cave in the village. It was massive. The wall and outer house was built in the 1800’s to protect the cave as it houses ashes of ancestors in the barrels.

Inside the front part of the cave looking out.

The goats were foraging and followed us around. Actually they were finding the rest of their group!

The hotel in Huanghua was beautiful. It had a hot spring pool on the roof and as it was raining when we finished the hike and into the next morning, it was perfect.

Lunch was at a really great restaurant that smokes chicken and corn in concrete pits.

After checking out we headed to Ruyuan and the Xianmenqixia scenic spot. Along the drive there were many rural farms with many crops including corn and other veggies interspersed with rice paddies.