Cruising a museum and the Bosphorus

Looking for a low key last day in Istanbul, I went to the Archaeological museum and also a cruise along the Bosphorus River.

Bosphorus River cruise

The cruise went from a port near the bazaars, further up the Bosphorus, then  down to the sea of Mármara through an area known as the Golden Horn, before returning.

The minaretes of the two mosques: the Hagia Sophia on the left and the Blue Mosque on the right.
Camlika Mosque on the top of the hill.
Dolmabahce Mosque.
Houses on a hill along the riverside.
Dolmabahce Palace
The Maidens Tower has been present since 1000 AD though past tiers have been destroyed in earthquakes, fires, etc. Some versions also connected to walls which are still visible in parts under water.
The view of the Sea of Mármara from the veranda of my hotel. What a beautiful view!
After passing the pier on the tour, i stopped at the first place I saw for a fish sandwich. Freshly caught, grilled, and put together quickly. So yummy.
The glass with red juice is actually pickled veggies.

Archaeological museum

So many cultures and empires in Constantinople/Turkey history, it is difficult to put it all together quickly but I like picking up pieces here and there.

Did you know that in some cultures it was thought that the sarcophagus was your home as you lived in your afterlife, therefore they were often shaped as houses?

3rd century BCE sarcophagus.
The stairs on the right is that of an eagle (head missing)
Limestone sculpture of Bes 7th to 6th century BCE
Sculptures from 3rd century BCE
2nd century sculptures
Statue of Emperor Hadrian, 2nd century
Statue of Alexander the Great, 3rd century BCE
Gigantomachy (Battle between Gods and giants).   2nd century.
Great statue of Zeus 2nd century

Excavation of Troy found that there are 10 distinct periods of culture in the city. This picture is of Troy 6 from 1700-1350 BCE. The oldest period is 3500 BCE and the youngest is from 13th to 14th century.

Pottery samples from Troy.

Macedonian pottery found in Troy dating back to 13th century BCE shows trading between t HH e two regions goes far back in history.

Greek influence.
Crowns from Byzantine and Constantinople reigns. First century.
Alexander sarcophagus, 300 BCE. Sarcophagus of the lasr King of Sidon. The artwork is the winning of the battle of Issus which gave Alexander a gateway to Syria and made the deceased the king of Sidon.
Sarcophagus, late 5th century BCE

When in Turkey…..do as a local and visit a hammam

Obviously first go shopping. The Grand Bazaar is packed with people and lots of people wanting you to buy rugs and scarves.

Generally that is a place that I avoid but I needed to pass through to get to the spice Bazaar where I was meeting a tour (one should really get the Istanbul e-pass as I saved so much money and had people on Whatsapp to help at any moment).

Entrance to spice Bazaar in the historic district.

I did buy Turkish delight there. Hazerbaba is the best. But I followed the recommendation of someone I know to buy Iranian saffron from a reputable dealer (Gülhane Spice) which is near Gülhane park. I forgot to take pictures there. I also bought a cashmere wool scarf with silk embroidery.

This bread is also the best and can be found all around the city.

Experience a hammam

A hammam is a traditional Turkish bathhouse that has been a central part of Turkish culture for centuries. The experience in a hammam began with a warm and humid environment (sauna). I was given a pestemal, a traditional Turkish cloth, to wear around my body along with disposable string underwear. Now with open pores I am prepared for exfoliation of the skin.

Next, I was led to a hot room with a large, heated marble slab known as the göbektaşı. Laying on the marble slab, I was splashed with warm water and gently scrubbed with a kese, a coarse mitt used to remove dead skin cells and impurities. After another rinsing and then turning over to complete the process on the backside, I was then covered with lemon scented suds. It felt like I was floating on clouds of super soft bubbles. They used a really light towel to skim over your skin and caress you with the bubbles. It felt pretty great. Then you are massaged to thoroughly clean the skin. Afterwards, you are led to a marble seating area to eat your hair and rinse you completely. After seeing your hair and face, you are wrapped tightly in a fuzzy towel.

After this cleaning and relaxing process, I was moved to a cooler room with a traditional Turkish coffee service, allowing rest and enjoying the feeling of rejuvenated skin and muscles. My skin is so soft….

No pictures to show but the experience was amazing. There are many hammams in the city including one of these oldest ones which is pretty expensive. But any hammam that had an older grandma type person does a super job.

A fountain in Gülhane park.

Mosques in Istanbul (ancient Constantinople)

Rustem Pasha Mosque

The Rustem Pasha Mosque is an Ottoman-era mosque located in the historic district near the Spice Bazaar. Commissioned by Rustem Pasha, who was the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire under Suleiman the Magnificent, the mosque was designed by the renowned Ottoman architect Sinan and completed in 1563. The mosque is known for its intricate tile work, which covers the walls, columns, and arches of the interior, which is stunning. The tiles were produced in the nearby city of Iznik and have a variety of floral and geometric patterns in blue, green, and red. The Rustem Pasha Mosque is considered one of the finest examples of Ottoman architecture.

The direction of prayer in the Mosque.

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia is a world-renowned architectural wonder. Originally built as a Christian cathedral in the 6th century, the building has a rich and complex history spanning over a millennium. For almost 1,000 years, it served as the principal church of the Eastern Orthodox Church, until the city of Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Empire in 1453. The building was then converted into a mosque and remained so until the early 20th century, when it was turned into a museum. In 2020, it was converted back into a mosque.

Hagia Sophia’s architecture is a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of its designers. The building’s massive dome, which spans over 100 feet in diameter, is one of the largest in the world and was then a marvel of engineering.

The size is impressive.

The interior of the building is adorned with intricate mosaics, frescoes, and other decorations, many of which depict scenes from the life of Jesus Christ and other religious figures.

The mosaics depicting Christianity are allowed in the mosque as this is outside the prayer area.
The mosaics in the ceiling of the outer hallway.
Outside the center prayer area.

Despite being converted into a mosque and then a museum, the building’s historical and cultural significance remained unchanged. It showcases both the Byzantine and Ottoman cultures with the unique blend of Christian and Islamic elements.

The Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque, also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is a stunningly beautiful mosque. It was commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I in the early 17th century. The mosque was designed by the famous Ottoman architect Sedefkâr Mehmed Ağa, who aimed to create a masterpiece that would rival the Hagia Sophia.

The Blue Mosque’s most distinctive feature is its six slender minarets, which are topped with balconies and small domes. This was seen as a bold move at the time, as it was believed that only the Grand Mosque in Mecca should have six minarets. Sultan Ahmed I famously solved this issue by commissioning a seventh minaret to be built for the Grand Mosque.

The entrance has chains that remind even the sultan that everyone who enters bows before God.

The mosque’s interior is equally impressive, with intricate tilework, beautiful stained-glass windows, and a stunning central dome that is over 75 feet in diameter. The mosque also features a large courtyard with a fountain, as well as several smaller domes and semi-domes.

The mosque remains an active place of worship.

Outside the blue mosque is the Hippodrome. The Hippodrome of Constantinople was an ancient stadium located in the city of Constantinople. It was originally built by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in 203 AD and was later expanded and renovated by the Byzantine emperors. The Hippodrome was the center of Constantinople’s social and political life for over 1,000 years and was the site of chariot races, games, and public ceremonies. It could hold up to 100,000 spectators and was adorned with statues, obelisks, and other decorative features.

The base of the obelisk.

Today, only a few remnants of the Hippodrome remain, including some of the original pillars, the obelisk of Theodosius, and the Serpent Column.

This obelisk has Egyptian carvings and was brought from Egypt using slaves to transport it.

Basílica Cistern, Istanbul

The Basilica Cistern, also known as the Yerebatan Cistern, is an ancient underground water reservoir. It was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, and its purpose was to provide the city with a reliable water supply.

The cistern is an engineering marvel, measuring approximately 138 meters long and 64.6 meters wide, with a capacity of around 80,000 cubic meters of water. It was constructed by skilled workers who used a combination of brick, stone, and mortar to create a vast network of columns, arches, and vaulted ceilings that supported a flat roof. The columns were brought in from other parts of the empire and various types of columns can be seen throughout.

The cistern’s name “Basilica” is derived from the fact that it is located underneath the site of a former basilica that once stood on the same spot. The cistern was forgotten for centuries and was only rediscovered in the 16th century.

One of the most famous features of the cistern is the two Medusa heads that are used as the bases of two columns, which are believed to have been taken from an ancient temple and placed in the cistern for protective purposes. I seem to have not found those, but admit to being very tired by that point.

Two of the columns in the Basilica Cistern are famously upside down, with their capitals (the decorative tops of the columns) placed below the base. The reason for this unusual placement is not entirely clear, and several theories have emerged over the years.

One popular theory is that the upside-down columns were recycled from an older structure, possibly a pagan temple, and were placed in the cistern as a way of neutralizing their power. According to this theory, turning the columns upside down was a way of symbolically rendering them powerless, as the tops of the columns would no longer be able to support the weight of the building.

Another theory is that the upside-down columns were simply a result of a mistake made by the builders of the cistern. It is possible that the builders did not have a clear understanding of the correct orientation of the columns, or that they were in a rush to complete the project and did not notice the mistake until it was too late.

Capadocia

Cappadocia, located in central Turkey, is really unique and is unlike any other destination in the world. The landscape is stunning in its natural beauty, but it also has a rich history, and unique cultural heritage. There are many caves hotels you can stay in. The front face is built into the rock and the caves are used for rooms. Those are pretty pricey and many people are claustrophobic as there are no windows.

I did not start in a real cave hotel but it was cool nonetheless.

The bed was super comfortable.
Turkish breakfast. So amazing and yummy.

The area is known for its unique rock formations, which were formed over millions of years by volcanic eruptions and erosion by wind and rain. These formations, known as fairy chimneys, take on many different shapes and sizes, and are dotted throughout the region. They are one of the main attractions of Cappadocia.

The volcanoes here erupted millions of years ago. The longest river was also here. When the Red River withdrew some of the base was eroded then the volcano erupted again. Basalt formed at the top and stayed as a chimney top.

Hittites used obsidian to carve places to live. They cut holes in the fairy chimneys to let out smoke.

Early Christians were persecuted so they hid by living in caves.

It stays about 10 C year round in the cave no matter the outside temperature.

Today many people use the caves to store food as it preserves harvest much longer.

Dime fairy chimneys do collapse as wisdom is still going on in the most layers beneath the basalt.

It really is unusual and stunning.

In addition to its natural beauty, Cappadocia is also rich in history. The area has been inhabited for thousands of years, and has been home to numerous civilizations, including the Hittites, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans. As a result, the region is home to a wealth of historical and cultural sites, including ancient cities, churches, and monasteries. Saint Simon had a canned check in the area. An early church can be found in the Rose Valley. The paintings in the church are done with natural dyes and date back to the 10th century.

The rocks are reddish here due to more iron oxide being present.

I can imagine a thriving community here a long time ago.

There are hiking trails through the region as well.

Some of the small holes are actually for pigeons as they are considered sacred and were a means for communication in the past.

Cappadocia is also known for its unique cuisine. The region is famous for its pottery, and many of the traditional dishes are cooked in clay pots. Some of the most popular dishes include pottery kebab, a meat dish cooked in a clay pot, and şırdan, a type of sausage made from lamb intestines.

We also toured a master potter family that is commissioned by the government to keep the tradition alive. I was not able to take pictures of the creations inside but they were so amazing.

You can see the round drink vessel. It is a work of art itself. The shape allows one to bow as it is poured.

His son, another master artisan would make any of the 40 forms he had mastered on demand. We chose the drink vessel. He cut through it to prove that it was hollow throughout. I did take video of parts of the process: https://youtube.com/watch?v=NNN25EFLWKQ&feature=share7

At the end of the day I had summer time before my transport to the airport. I walked around the town and had a glass of local wine.

These are actually caves that are being used today.

Hot air balloon over Capadocia

I usually pack my vacations tightly and really tried to see many places in four days on this trip. After Ephesus, rather than fly back to Istanbul, I flew instead to Kayseri. The next day i was to have a tour of the landscape of Capadocia. Originally it meant flying out of Istanbul again for that tour. But now that I was there the night before, I could join a hot air balloon ride over the Devrent Valley. Unfortunately, it meant only a few hours sleep again. It is a good thing that i can actually sleep on planes (but now jet lag is creeping in…)

One of the most popular activities in Cappadocia is hot air ballooning. I took a sunrise balloon tour, to look at the breathtaking scenery of Cappadocia from a different perspective. Later I will tour from the ground.

The unique landscape of the region is dotted with fairy chimneys and other rock formations, which was truly spectacular to view from above.


Mount Erciyes, also known as Argaeus is an inactive volcano in Kayseri Province, Turkey
Fairy chimneys from over 1000 meters.
Throughout the region there
many caves dwellings.
One of many interesting valleys.
A local house.
Such interesting landscapes.
Breathtaking.
There are some amazing structures.
The sunrise and colors would be more spectacular with less clouds but we were fortunate there was no rain as had been forecasted.

I do have a 360 video: https://youtube.com/watch?v=PjrMdtt73Q4&feature=share7

Ephesus

Virgin Mary house

The House of the Virgin Mary in Ephesus, also known as the “Meryemana” in Turkish, is a small stone house located on a hillside. According to tradition, the house is believed to be the final home of the Virgin Mary, mother of Jesus, where she lived out her last days.

The significance of the Virgin Mary’s House in Ephesus is primarily religious and spiritual. For Catholics and some other Christians, it is considered a holy site and a place of pilgrimage. The house is believed to have been the site of a number of miraculous events.

The belief in the authenticity of the house dates back to the visions of Blessed Anne Catherine Emmerich, a German nun who had never visited the site, but in 1820 described the house in detail and its location on a hill near Ephesus. The house was rediscovered in the late 19th century.

The house is located near the ancient city of Ephesus, which was an important center of early Christianity and the site of one of the seven churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation. The house and its surroundings also showcase the cultural and architectural influences of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires.

Services are given every Sunday.
The water from the spring is considered holy and one can drink or wash hands.
A cistern used on the site for water.
The bottom stones are darker color and are the original excavated foundation.

The ruins of Ephesus are the remains of an ancient Greek and Roman city located near the Aegean Sea in modern-day Turkey. The city was founded in the 10th century BC and was once a thriving center of trade, culture, and religion, with a population that reached up to 250,000 people at its peak.

Column from the Roman period.
Clay pipes excavated from the ground which shows an extensive water and sewage system.
Many of the structures have unknown purposes.

The ruins of Ephesus include a vast array of well-preserved structures, including the Library of Celsus, the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World), the Great Theater, and the Terrace Houses (luxury homes of the wealthy). The city’s most iconic structure is the Library of Celsus, a stunning two-story building with a façade adorned with intricate carvings and statues.

A carved backgammon board on the stone.
Rams head that would be on the top of a column.
A small theater area.
The top of these columns are all a little different due to various architectural influences.
Entrance gate outside the theater.
The road going to some dwellings and the market area are pushed in original marble stones. They are the original summers though some were moved from a different place in the city.
There are many fountains and other structures throughout the city.
Hercules gate.
Roman toilets for men only! Fresh water ran continuously through.
This would be part of a rich person’s house as these mosaic tiles on the floor are patterned as a rug.
The inscription on the stone speaks of this place being a brothel, but going there would give you a bad reputation. It is thought that there was an underground passage from the library which was across the street for noble people to enter unseen.
The original Aegean sea came up to about the trees close to the city. An earthquake changed the landscape.
Statues of goddesses can be seen here.
A very large stadium which held 24,000 people.
Symbol for medicine where a doctor would be.
Symbol for pharmacy.

Ephesus was an important religious center, with several temples dedicated to various gods and goddesses, including the Temple of Artemis, the Temple of Hadrian, and the Temple of Domitian. The city was also the site of one of the Seven Churches of Asia mentioned in the Bible’s Book of Revelation.

Temple of Artemis

One of the seven ancient wonders, there is not much left here. Pieces were taken to make other monuments in existence today such as the Hagia Sophia and also a British museum as well as structures in other countries.

Ephesus was eventually abandoned in the 15th century due to a combination of factors, including natural disasters, changes in trade routes, and the rise of new cities. The ruins of Ephesus are stunning with architecture, intricate mosaics, and impressive monuments.

Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

Topkapi Palace is a magnificent historical complex located in Istanbul, Turkey. It was built in the 15th century, and the palace served as the residence of Ottoman sultans and their families for over 400 years.

The palace has various courtyards, chambers, and pavilions. It was fascinating to look at all the different areas, each adorned with opulent decorations and intricate designs.

The Imperial Treasury houses priceless artifacts and jewels.

A chess board with jeweled pieces.

The Harem is where the sultan’s concubines and wives lived.

Entry halls that are managed by Black eunuchs from Africa (then part of the Ottoman empire)
Nurbano Sultán apartment for the mother of the future sultan (son and heir).
Above the door reads: O believers, do not enter the house of the prophet without permission
Hamam or Turkish bath.
The imperial Hall where ceremonies took place.
The use of skylights for natural lighting is amazing throughout the Harem.
The Sultans privy chamber
The work on this ceiling dome dates back to 1585.

Another building that is a place to receive dignitaries.

The Mecidiye Pavilion was the most recent building addition in 1858. This would be a resting for Sultans after their throne ascension ceremonies.

A few relics in the relic display hall.

The relic fragment of John the Baptists arm and skull bone from the 1st century
The footprint of the prophet Mohammed in the 7th century

I also toured a building with centuries of clothing.