Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.
It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.” It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.
Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.
A flashmob thriller dance in the airport.Our Airbnb is above here in El panacillo.View when walking early morning This old deteriorating car was interesting Two entwined birds sculptureLoja city letters near the gate to the cityThe gate to the city The gate from the other side The thinker… Ecuadorian styleView from the gate into the cityView from the top tower of the gateOutside the tower we saw the city tour bus. We were able to get on the tour and see buildings we would want to go back toAn obelisk in a round about Simón Bolívar parkFor día de los muertos, they sell colada morada and guagua de pan. It is a sweet fruit and corn flour drink. The bread is filled with a lightly sweet filling. I did go back to get a bread later. This photo taken from the top of the city tour bus.Catholic cathedral. Today was día de los muertos and the service is in honor of family members.Independence square also known as San Sebastián square.Plaza de San Francisco Inside the music museum.Calle de los Lourdes.View from the top of El panecillo looking towards the historical district.
One morning I climbed to the top of one mirador to see views of the city.
We also walked to Parque Jiripa where there are many activities for families. After peddling the swan boat we walked around a bit.
Then we went in search for food at the Cueva de cangrejos (Crab cave). Delicious!
On the way to Vilcabamba was the parque podocarpus.
Parque Podocarpus
Parque Nacional Podocarpus, often referred to as the “Botanical Garden of America,” runs across the provinces of Loja and Zamora-Chinchipe. It is best k own for its incredible biodiversity, the park covers an impressive 1,500 square kilometers and varies in altitude from 900 to 3,600 meters (3,000 to 11,800 feet). This allows many diverse ecosystems to exist: lowland tropical forests to high-altitude páramos. The views here are amazing.
The park’s name comes from the Podocarpus tree, which is a type of conifer found in the cloud forests.
There are around 4,000 species of plants, many of which are rare or endemic. These include orchids, ferns, and giant bromeliads.
Unfortunately, we didn’t much wildlife, but somewhere there are spectacled bear, mountain tapir, and giant armadillo. We did see one bird, an Andean guan.
A snack along the way
We stopped along the way to try some bread called bizcochuelo. It is much like a slightly sweet and a little drier spring cake. Paired with some sugar cane juice with naranjilla added to cut the sweetness.
Malacatos
We stopped to look at the church here and wander around to stretch our legs. I saw some coca cola flavored Oreos and had to try them! Yes, they had a hint of coca cola flavor and we’re quite tasty
Vilcabamba
This small town has a reputation for longevity among its residents. The name “Vilcabamba” comes from the indigenous Quechua language, meaning “Sacred Valley.” Now many expats and retirees live here and it draws international visitors who are interested in wellness, alternative medicine, and spirituality.
Yes, the water was very cold but maybe this imparts longevity too?Sopa verde. Very fresh with peas.Pescado. Excellent fish!We were serenaded by a street musician.
We had time afterwards to peruse the shops and street vendors. Before we knew it, it was time to return to Loja
It has been an interesting start of the year here in Ecuador. We have just now finished the first quarter of the year. Here is a recap.
Our bus stop was robbed early in the morning in the first week. American women are feisty: throwing hot tea in their face and running around. Pretty scary but we were glad they did not have a gun and didn’t stick around long. They didn’t get anything from us but did take a phone from another friend.
A historic drought has left power disruption here in Ecuador. All of their power is hydroelectric. There have been power cuts up to 14 hours a day and though it took a little time to adjust, one can make the most of time without power. I have been walking with a weighted backpack for an extra workout and to get used to walking with a full pack. Timing showers and laundry means being flexible and I am glad I have a gas stove. Making sure anything you want to do on the phone is downloaded and everything is charged. Recently I put up my Christmas tree with 4 strands of battery operated lights. It helps to illuminate and not use as many candles. I look for any excuse to put up the tree but it was a good choice!
Mindo
The annual bike ride to Mindo was in September. I didn’t ride, but instead went there to hang out with others. I stayed at the biohostal and could watch birds from the veranda.
One activity I have not done here is to hike the waterfalls
It was a beautiful 9 km hike!
On the way back out I met one of my colleagues Nadine. Many people from my school came to mindo that weekend.The megaswing that was quite a lot of fun.
Mindo night hike
This is another hike I wanted to do in Mindo. I did get to see a glass frog but no reptiles.
CentipedeGlass frog with the light above.Glass frog with the light below.This bird is called Rufus mutt mutt. It’s the only bird here that eats poisonous things.
I have been really lax in writing about things. It is like every start of a school year where there is a lot going on. I am looking forward to more relaxing times ahead.
I usually only come home once a year and then spend time traveling between family members. Here in PA there were some hikes, bike rides, and fun runs (walks for me).
Most of the time it is Sunni and I trying to stay out of trouble…
Stop at Brady’s bend after lunch with Mom
I spent one day with my friend Michele Belak which started with a morning race and ended with an evening race on the trails here in PA. In between we drove back and forth and stopped to see her horse. It was good to catch up with her. In the past, we used to meet at several races over the summer. It was great to catch up with her and hear about the people we worked with at Citizens Ambulance when we were in college.
One night Ryan and I rode bikes in an event called critical mass. Over 100 people participated in a 24 mile ride through the streets of Pittsburgh. The point is to take back the roads from cars and bring awareness that bikes have rights also. Here we are headed to the start of the ride.
Ryan and I also hiked some trails near Kittanning. They are small trails but very quiet and peaceful.
Afterwards we biked through the city of Pittsburgh from the north side to the south side along the trails and the rivers.
In front of the fountain at the point
Another road trip was to take my dad’s ashes to Buffalo and Erie. We visited the graves of my grandparents and stopped to see Duann, a friend from childhood.
Lake Erie
An event in Pittsburgh called picklesburgh also took place. Fun having some pickle egg rolls, pickle fudge, and other things.
And of course I played with everyone’s cats. This is the baby of Sunni’s and is a Maine coon.
Belize is a beautiful and amazing country with wonderfully kind people. I like to watch shows like House Hunters International for ideas of places to visit and possibly live in. It was a great addition at the end of visiting Guatemala as it is also rich in Mayan history.
Belize was once part of the extensive Maya civilization. The Maya built extensive cities that had developed advanced knowledge in mathematics, astronomy, and architecture.
The Spanish arrived in the 16th century, but they found it challenging to control the area due to the resistance from the Maya and the dense jungles.
The Spanish arrived in the 16th century but had difficulty maintaining control due to the Mayans and the dense jungle. In the 17th century, British pirates and loggers began settling in Belize. The wood of value was logwood and mahogany. Eventually the British had dominance.
Old colonial style house
In 1862, Belize became a British colony known as British Honduras. African slaves were brought in for logging.
In 1964 they earned the right of self-government. But they didn’t gain full independence until September 21, 1981. Belize has a democratic government and its economy is focused on tourism and agriculture.
It has a diverse culture with influences from its Maya heritage, British colonial past, and various ethnic groups (Creole, Mestizo…)
I took a food tour of Belize city. We are fish enchiladas and also taquitos.
Belizean treats which is a jam tart and a coconut tart.
I usually only try new flavors of ice cream. But these two are my favorite: soursop also known as uvilla and craboo which is known as guanábana.
We also stopped at a rum factory. The coconut rum was heavenly.
We toured around the various areas of the city. It really is an amazing city and possibly on the list for a retirement place.
Biggest importer in the country.Cemetery in the middle of the city that is bisected by a major roadway.I thought this sign was pretty interesting. There is a large dance studio in the area.
Now to prepare for the flights back to the US and to see family. I do miss them.
I took a tour to this other ruin close to San Ignacio. After the short drive, you get on the small ferry across the nature section of the Mopan river. This ferry is hand cranked.
These Mayan ruins are younger than the others I have seen. Though there is evidence that they were inhabited in 1000 BC, it was not a major Mayan center until 250 AD. Its name means stone woman as locals would see an apparition of a woman walking through the overgrown jungle towards one of the structures.
The name for the mounds of vegetation and dirt that covered the structures are called montículos.
Since it is summer, the University groups that are working on excavating were there. It was really interesting to talk to them about their work.
They uncovered stairs and foundationsA shard of potteryThe chiseling is the stamp of the architect
El Castillo was a fortress designed to house royalty but also protect them. Residences were at the top and viewing platforms with columns used for spectators and watchmen. The engraved artwork was recreated with plaster after years of degradation.
El Castillo is the tallest structure at the site. It is built from the bedrock of a hill with stairs leading to that bedrock layer.This is the bedrock layerChannels were created to move water.A sleeping areaFacing the WestShrine with columns. This is facing West and Guatemala is just in the distance.The use of columns dates to the later classic period around 900 ADSpiny back iguana not hunted for food While excavating on the side, they found a tomb and followed it back through.The size of the stones determines how old it is. Further back is much larger stones and the newer structures were built on top of the old ones with smaller stones. Using cement with the smaller stones means that the structures lasted for quite some time and can also not collapse.From the top of El Castillo facing North.
We walked through the ancient road and to the two sites that are just being excavated.
They know that this is a foundation and they are looking for evidence of the doorThis sutre was a quarry, not for stones for building but instead for sculpture stonesThis has not been inscribedThis was an ancient ball court. The sloped sides had the stone hoops and the balls were made of hard rubber made from the sap of a tree and hit by elbows and knees
The last image is the time of heaven and the underworld in their religious beliefs.
I loved visiting this site as it was one of the major Mayan cities along with Tikal. Being close to the Mopan river, trading was easy with other cities.
I had a few tours cancelled. Unfortunately, when traveling solo that can happen as a minimum is required for each tour though usually there are others who sign up. But it is the slow season in a small town in Belize. Having time without an agenda is good for me. I have done a lot in the last 2.5 weeks….
I walked to the Green Iguana conservation project and along the way walked through the streets of the town. Very hot but a nice walk around.
And I wondered what Freddie Mercury was singing about in Bohemian RhapsodyThey had me at cashew wine
Green Iguana conservation project
This project breeds green iguanas and the babies are released into the wild to repopulate. Some of the inhabitants are the breeding adults and they are unable to live again in the wild as they were rescued.
This is the male and so gentle.Two femalesThis guy is a spinetail iguanaYoung yearlingsOnly one of the yearlings is calm enough to do this. Fun. Of the adults, this male was the calmest and doesn’t mind being held.
After having to go find another way to get to Belize (and my reservation in San Ignacio), I found a shared van for $40 through Gekko explorers. It was a long 12 hour ride in a van with a very eclectic group of foreigners. We stopped three times and had plenty of villages to see from the windows when we were not asleep. We were headed to Flores in the Petén region of Guatemala.
The region was inhabited by the Maya civilization in 1000 BCE. The largest of the Mayan cities were Tikal, Uaxactun, and Yaxha. Two of these ruins are tours I am taking. Around the 9th century, many of the population of the Mayan cities were in decline due to many factors such as overpopulation and warfare.
The Maya in Petén resisted Spanish conquest longer than many other regions. The Itza Maya (near modern-day Flores), remained independent until 1697, when Spanish forces finally conquered them. They became part of New Spain and then part of Guatemala after independence.
At the top of the center hill are basketball and other courts for people to gather.
I found the restaurant, Nativo, which has a great menu I ordered their aguachile with fish and two tamarind margaritas. Delicious and a great place to watch the sunset.
I took a tour to hike the Pacaya volcano. Pacaya is an active volcano. It has been continuously active since 1965 and the last edition was in 2021. It is one of the most active volcanoes in Central America. It is 2,552 meters (8,373 feet) above sea level. Most of its eruptions are lava flows with some ash plumes, but only a few explosions.
The last eruption still has many fumerolesFumeroles which are volcanic ventsYou can see the different lava fields from routine over the years.
I was intrigued to view another volcano. There is a bigger one here but did not want an extreme hike. On this volcano trip you have the opportunity to roast marshmallows over a vent in the volcano. One person had reserved a pizza made on the vent as well so we all pooled our money together for a large pizza. It took 10 minutes to cook. They do add wood but the volcanic vent is the start of the fire. A bit pricey for pizza (70 quetzals for 2 pieces which is about $9) but they did bring the ingredients as the way to the top and the cool factor.
After pizza we roasted marshmallows.
A nice tour and had fun talking to others and the guide (in Spanish) followed by sitting in the pool at the hotel to cool off.
Isabela Island is the largest island in the Galapagos. Isabela was formed by the merging of six large shield volcanoes: Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin, Ecuador, Sierra Negra, and Wolf. It is relatively young with an estimated age of around 1 million years. It was named after Queen Isabela I from Castile.
Sunrise on Santa Cruz before leaving for Isabela on the ferry
Of the three islands it is pretty chill and a great place to relax.
The island is known for its rich biodiversity, including several species of tortoises, iguanas, penguins, and flightless cormorants.
Las Tintoreras tour
Our guide took us on a boat around the harbor, then on a part of the island that is volcanic rock. From here there are underground tunnels or tubes from flows of lava to snorkel in and see turtles, sharks, and penguins.
I didn’t snorkel but did give my camera to the guide. I might have to come back again since I have found how to move around the islands. Here are some videos from the snorkeling.
Sierra Negra Volcano, which has one of the world’s largest volcanic craters. Its just eruption was in 2018 and each eruption gives valuable information on impact. It is a shield volcano with broad and slow rising slopes and lava flows with less velocity. The caldera is 10 km wide. The volcano collapsed into the caldera and subsequent lava flows have changed the landscape more.
The hike is 16 km total and goes out then back around part of the rim.
The crater where the dome collapsed and lava flows continued after later eruptionsA couple of friends from Quito were also here in the GalapagosThis is actually one of the youngest islands in the Galapagos. Fernandina is only a few kilometers away from Isabela and is one of the most active volcanoes here.It is amazing to see such different rocks from each kind of lava flow and life here.Darwin finchVermillion flycatcherYellow warblerDarwin finch
Poza de los flamingos
During the early 1900s, the Ecuadorian government used the island as a penal colony, known as Puerto Villamil (the current capital). Prisoners were put to work on various projects, including building the “Wall of Tears,” (Muro de las lágrimas) a large wall constructed from lava rocks. I rented a bike for $10 for the day, brought food with me and had a great 4 hours looking around the area.
It is best to bike all the way out to the wall and then stop at all the other lookouts on the way back.
Mirador cerro ochillaCamino de tortugael estero that goes through the mangroveThe mangrove Even the iguanas know how to stay on the right side of the road.At Poza escondida. This finch loved my bike tire. Poza redondaTúnel del estero. Formed when lava flows cooled on the outside to make a tube. The inside lava continued to flow out.Playas del amor, iguana egg laying siteMirador los tunesPozas verdesLa playita
After that I went to pearl concha, where many go to snorkel.
Then a rest at the pink iguana.
Isabela Island is the main focus of conservation efforts in the Galapagos. Programs are in place to protect the endemic species and restore habitats that have been affected by invasive species and human activity.
Goats were one of the most destructive invasive species. They degraded the habitat by overgrazing, which led to soil erosion and the destruction of native vegetation. This impacted native tortoise populations. Donkeys also contributed to this problem.
Pigs, introduced by humans, preyed on the eggs and hatchlings of native reptiles, such as tortoises and iguanas.
Black rats and Norway rats were introduced accidentally by ships. They prey on eggs and hatchlings of birds and reptiles.
Feral cats have been a significant predator of native wildlife, including birds, iguanas, and young tortoises. Their hunting behavior has caused declines in many native species. Dogs likewise are a problem.
An invasive insects, such as the Philornis downsi fly affected birds. The larvae of this fly parasitize the nestlings of many bird species, causing high mortality rates.
Blackberry and guava plants outcompete the native species and grow too thick.
The aggressive eradication of most of these allowed the tortoise population to increase.
