Last day in Napo lodge, Amazonas Ecuador

On the last day of the amazon vacation I took a boat to Panacoche lake to fish for piranha.

We fished for piranha but no luck…but another group caught one and I did get to try it.
Black mantle tamarind
Juvenile red howler monkey
White winged swallow
Tropical cormorant
Blue and yellow macaw
Sand colored nighthawk
Parakeet

One last night hike…

This lizard camouflaged well

Napo is a pretty special place and what makes it special is the community effort and commitment.

Yasuní adventures and kichwa customs

In the early morning, I went to the tower to look for the monkeys and birds that are active right at dawn.

Manosaky monkey. Look at that face! They look like bears!
Lizard
Spixis guan
Cinereous tinamu
Gilded barbet

After the sunrise hike and breakfast, we went to the cultural center to learn about the kichwa customs.

The custom of dancing.
Clay pots for various foods from plantain, yucca, and cacao.
Tools for mashing and mixing.
This little girl was so sweet.
Everyday food. From the top is chonta worm (a larvae), cacao bean, heart of palm, plantain (yellow at the bottom), and yucca. The base material in the center is mashed cacao.
Chonta worm and mashed cacao. I wasn’t brave enough to eat the live worm.
Crested owl in the top of the store.
Hunting with a blow gun. It was surprisingly easy and I hit the target (stuffed bird) hanging in the doorway

After lunch, we went back to the Añangu river to look for giant river otters. No luck today but we saw a lot of other cool things. I got to help row the canoe. The poor guide now knows I hate to sit still.

This red howler monkey is pregnant and carrying a baby

These coatimundi babies were trying to get across to where momma went. One went up one direction and the other climbed up a vine but fell down into the water – twice. Poor thing….

Poor thing is so drenched….
A capuchin monkey with a cacao.
Red crested woodpecker
Red howler reaching for tasty leaves
Black caiman
On the way to various places we would see barges carrying petroleum vehicles. French companies are present here where they care for workers and the environment.
Yellow headed sideneck

After dinner was a little night hike.

Frog
Pygmy opposum. it moved fast.
This mushroom gives off a foul smell to attract insects
Under a blacklight this scorpion glows
What it looks like with regular light

Clay lick birds, Yasuní national forest

The clay lick at Yasuní (which in Spanish is called a saladero) is a natural mineral-rich area in the park where parrots, macaws, and other wildlife arrive to consume clay. This behavior helps them neutralize toxins found in their diet of fruits and seeds.

We woke up early in the morning to get there and see flocks of parakeets (yellow crowned, yellow tailed, and blue headed) in the first clay pit and macaws and parakeets in the second location. They eventually cover the walls of the clay banks and are something spectacular to watch. We were fortunate to not have to wait too long for the birds to arrive.

Along the way we saw other animals like this little owl.

Red howler monkey

This is the blue Morpho butterfly but the blue is on the inside of the wings. When it flies it is hard to get a good picture.

Poisonous mushroom.

Later in the afternoon I went to watch the sunset at the top of a very tall tower. Unfortunately there was a very hard rain before and  fog covered over the area. I did see a red howler monkey pair.

Ecuador Amazon, Napo Cultural Center

The Napo Anangu community is an Indigenous Kichwa community. They are located in Yasuní National Park in the Ecuadorian Amazon. They are committed to conservation and sustainable ecotourism. They operate the Napo Wildlife Center, There is a lodge at the Napo wildlife center and also the Napo Cultural Center. Both are renowned eco-lodges that provides employment for locals and preserves the rainforest.

Yasuní National Park is a Biosphere Reserve, and is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth, The park contains vast oil reserves,which is troublesome as there is drilling in parts. There are also other groups of indigenous peoples who still remain uncontacted today.

Welcome guayusa deink
After climbing up an observation tower we saw a banded toucan.
This sloth was very close to the lodge.
View from the tower towards the Napo river.

The next morning we opted to pay for a different tour to the wildlife center in search of the giant river otter. In the video you can see it in the first few seconds. They are fast and elusive.

Three owls in the tree.
This large structure on the tree is an ant nest.
Cattle tyrant
Hoitzin

As we were watching red howler monkeys and a baby climbed a branch directly over our heads. As we were trying to get pictures we saw that it had started peeing. It missed but was pretty close to the boat. Mono travieso which means naughty monkey.

Red howler monkey baby.
The Napo wildlife center
The row of dark things on this tree are bats.
I loved the reflection of the foliage on the surface of the water. The water is the color of coca cola due to the break down of leaf material. It makes the water slightly acidic.
Greater Ani
Snake bird
Caiman lizard
View from the top of the Napo wildlife tower.

We saw a variety of monkeys on this trip and it was easier to capture videos than pictures.

Unfortunately he drops the snail trying to open it.
The baby squirrel monkeys were so playful.
Not much to see on this video but turn up your sound to hear two groups of red howler monkeys communicating

Mendoza, Argentina

On our final leg of the holiday vacation, we spent a few days in Mendoza which is known for its amazing wines.

Our airbnb

The first day we went to Bodega Clos de Chacra for tasting, tour, and lunch.

Simple pairings with each wine tasting
Wine used to be kept in clay caves and would flow the wine in channels

Lunch was 7 courses (siete pasos). Great food and a lot of wine. Good thing we had a driver!

Gazpacho
Trucha (trout)

Needless to say we did not do anything else the rest of the day….

The next day we visited a few wineries. Cruzat is one of the few wineries that produces sparkling wine.

After 2 more wineries, we stopped at Rincon Gieco for a sandwich and wine tasting (by this point I didn’t want any more wine.)

Next is sailing here in Potrerillos, Mendoza followed by a return to Santiago and then to Quito.

Rapa Nui (More photos)

I went to Abu Tahai for sunset. So beautiful. The cemetery is near the archaeological site.

View of Hanga Roa.

I rented a bike one day and rode across the center of the island. Harder than I thought and very sunny. But I made it to Anakena Beach, had a swim and some pineapple juice and made the trip back. One way is 1.5 hours stopping for pictures.

Vinapu

There are only so many female maoi statues. This is a drawing of what a complete one would look like.
The column in front is the female statue minus the head. The head however has not been recovered.
The pukao or top knot which is the hair (man bun) and are made of red scoria a lighter weight volcanic rock.
Many platforms were reused especially when resources were scarce. The stones were reused for houses and underneath the platforms was a place for burials or houses.
This is an older style maoi.

.irador Rana Kau

This crater is a collapsed volcano and some produce found here grows on some of the slopes of the crater.
The petroglyph on this rock is that of the  birdman.

Orongo

This is on the other side of the volcano Crater. There is remains of Rapa Nui houses from the 1700’s and reconstructed houses to show what they would have looked like. Here the birdman competition would happen. A representative(s) from each klan would go to the island on a log like surfing to retrieve the egg of the sooty tern.

Island they surfed to
Looking back across the crater
The ruins of a Rapa Nui bouse
Reproduction of the Rapa Nui house

Ahu Huri A Urenga

Puma Pau

Interesting tree. Not a pine but leaves that are stiff and a bit sharp.

Ahu Akiv

Maoi generally face inland. This looks like it is facing towards the water, but there would have been a village in front of it. The maoi always face towards the people as they represent mana and enlightenment.

So what if there was an alternative explanation to the Rapa Nui culture disappearing?

A theory is the inhabitants of Rapa Nui could have attempted to move to another island They were skilled Polynesian navigators capable of long ocean voyages. Why it is not likely:
1. Rapa Nui is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world.

2. By the time of their decline, deforestation meant that they lacked materials for constructing large seafaring canoes.

3. They also had less capacity for organizing expeditions.

Daytime view of the cemetery.

It has been an amazing 5 days here. Relaxing and so peaceful. Not overly touristic but just enough.

Rapa Nui/Easter Island/Isla de Pascua

Rapa Nui is a Polynesian island where a unique and sophisticated culture developed. The moai, carved from basalt, were created to honor ancestors and chiefs, representing spiritual and political power called mana. By the 17th century, the culture suffered from overpopulation and resource depletion (mainly trees) which led to conflicts and decline. Europeans from Chile began to arrive in 1722. The brought leprosy and took many natives including tribal leaders in their slave raids. Many of the past stories were lost with them.

It is worth the time to take a full day tour and learn the history.

Anakena Beach

Hanga Tetenga

You can see this one is still connected to the bedrock and will be later cut away then the maoi will be moved.
Once carving is complete and separated from the bedrock, they were moved through the valleys and then lowered into a pit until they could be transported elsewhere.
The maoi were carved for people who were important. Slaves did not do the carving, they were paid craftsmen
The oldest maoi on the island

These relics showed maoi that were knocked over most likely by warring klans. The red scoria rock was used for the topknots (hair).

Ahu Tongariki

These maoi were toppled by a tsunami. A Japanese crane company owner donated a crane and a lot of money to restore the maoi.

Ahu Akahanga

Reproduction Rapa Nui house.
Warriors slept near the entrance and older and children were at the ends.
To store water for crops, stones were used to trap moisture

Moai cultural dance at Te Moana

We had dinner at a restaurant that also has a cultural show. The dancers and singers were very talented and told the story of a king who dies, a moai statue is made and he receives eternal power.

A walk through town reveals other maoi.

Ahu riata
Mirador de las olas/wave lookout

Guayasamín

Oswaldo Guayasamín was a renowned Ecuadorian painter and sculptor. His work focused on themes of social justice, human suffering, and oppression. His art was heavily influenced by the struggles of marginalized communities in Latin America, but also included global injustices from Asia. Guayasamín’s works are characterized by intense emotion, bold colors, and expressive forms, often depicting anguish and resilience and focusing on facial expressions and hands.

On his property is his house which is filled with pre-colombian artifacts and paintings from other artists around the world. He also created La Capilla del Hombre (The Chapel of Man) which is a museum dedicated to his art and a tribute to the human spirit. Both buildings stand on his property which was donated to Ecuador.

Various emotions of war. Notice the coffin shape creating a background.
His unfinished ceiling in the chapel. He died before its completion.
Flame dedicated to the human spirit.
I watched a video of the artist creating this painting and he is truly an artist. He did not work with brushes,
rather a palette knife instead.

Cuenca

I went to Cuenca for another trip. Such a beautiful city here in Ecuador. Quiet and safe. Washing around there are many beautiful buildings and views.

I also wanted to find Christmas decorations.

This time in Cuenca I visited a few museums. One was devoted to fiber arts here in South America. Beautiful works made of fibers.

We took a half day tour to some of the areas in Cajas national park.

The highest chocolate shoppe.

On the way back to Cuenca we asked the driver to put on the party lights (we were in a bus that also is used as a party bus). Of course we had a dance party on the bus. Pretty fun.

I also visited the municipal museum of Cuenca.

Other views of Cuenca.

A little Christmas market.
I found a shop that made homemade hot chocolate. I watched Home Alone in Spanish while I drank the chocolate

The Pumapungo museum is an area with Incan ruins, artifacts, and a refuge for birds.

Loja, Ecuador

Loja is in southern Ecuador. Here it is known for its cultural heritage and beautiful landscapes. It is said if you want to know the true Ecuador, you should spend time here.

It is known as the “Music and Cultural Capital of Ecuador.”  It is a must see place for seeing the real Ecuador. There are only a few expats here and knowing Spanish is highly recommended. It is one of Ecuador’s oldest cities (1548) and has a well-preserved colonial district with cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and community plazas.

Loja is surrounded by the Andes, something we experienced flying in. The plane entered a narrow valley to be able to turn into an adjacent one to reach the landing strip. If I didn’t know better, I would think we were experiencing an emergency landing. The pilots here are very experienced.

A flashmob thriller dance in the airport.
Our Airbnb is above here in El panacillo.
View when walking early morning
This old deteriorating car was interesting
Two entwined birds sculpture
Loja city letters near the gate to the city
The gate to the city
The gate from the other side
The thinker… Ecuadorian style
View from the gate into the city
View from the top tower of the gate
Outside the tower we saw the city tour bus. We were able to get on the tour and see buildings we would want to go back to
An obelisk in a round about
Simón Bolívar park
For día de los muertos, they sell colada morada and guagua de pan. It is a sweet fruit and corn flour drink. The bread is filled with a lightly sweet filling. I did go back to get a bread later. This photo taken from the top of the city tour bus.
Catholic cathedral.
Today was día de los muertos and the service is in honor of family members.
Independence square also known as San Sebastián square.
Plaza de San Francisco
Inside the music museum.
Calle de los Lourdes.
View from the top of El panecillo looking towards the historical district.

One morning I climbed to the top of one mirador to see views of the city.

We also walked to Parque Jiripa where there are many activities for families. After peddling the swan boat we walked around a bit.

Then we went in search for food at the Cueva de cangrejos (Crab cave). Delicious!