We headed to the Douro valley. The first stop was in a town called Amarante.
Amarante is a charming town in northern Portugal, known for its rich history, picturesque setting, and cultural heritage. It is on the banks of the Tâmega River and very picturesque. One of most iconic landmarks is the São Gonçalo Church, dedicated to the town’s patron saint, which overlooks the river and features a stunning baroque facade.
The town is also known for its pastries.
Afterwards we went wine tasting at Aveleda, the local winery. Such long family history and beautiful gardens. The wines were fantastic.
We then headed to the Douro valley where we would be staying and also bought some food for the evening.
The Meeting of the Waters in Manaus is a natural phenomenon where the dark colored waters of the Rio Negro (looks like tea or coca cola without suspended particles) meets the lighter, sandy-colored waters of the Solimões River (which flows to the Amazon), flowing side by side without immediately mixing for several kilometers, creating a stunning visual contrast. This occurs due to differences in temperature, speed, and density between the two rivers.
Even though we could see it, it helped when a big boat cut through across it. The waters moved in relation to each other but still didn’t mix.
Up close where the boat passed through. Even though the water moved in relation to each other, it still didn’t mix.
A video of the two different waters that don’t mix together.
We did go piranha fishing but alas, as with other fishing, you never know whether you catch anything. We didn’t….
On the last day we saw another small village that had a nice stream to relax in.
And in the pool at the resort, a different frog was there the last morning
And of course, this praying mantis loved to be held. I have held him most days. And he loved my phone. When I picked him up, his head turned wherever the phone was. Maybe he is an Instagram influencer? And with that, my time in the Amazon is almost done
Now to have a tour of the meeting of the waters in Manaus where two rivers of different densities meet.
Paricatuba is a small village located in the Brazilian state of Amazonas, along the Amazon River. It has historical significance as the site of the Paricatuba Cemetery, which was built in the late 19th century during the rubber boom era. The cemetery was designed to accommodate the large number of deaths caused by diseases like malaria and yellow fever among rubber tappers and workers.
The building we visited was originally a hotel for immigrants working during the rubber boom. There is evidence of the thick Italian tile.
Also the system of bricks that are alternated and very strong design came from Marseille France.
When petroleum was replaced in making rubber, that economy fell and the building was used as a jail. Only a couple doors have bars on them still.
Later it was used as an insane asylum and then as a hospital for those who are stricken with diseases as a form of isolation.
Now it is abandoned and the jungle (as all of nature) wins in the end. This reminds me of Angkor Wat but not as old obviously. It is only 120 years old.
After the nature hike we went by canoe to another island inhabited by an indigenous tribe. The tribe I believe receives money to maintain the rituals for tourism.
We stopped to try foods including Brazil nuts, rambutan (which I have not had since I left China), and a tapioca pan.
On the left are larvae and on the right are dried ants. Yes, I tried both of them.
These Brazil nuts are actually found in a giant pod. I did not know that.
They use the office of the eucalyptus tree to start a fire to begin the ceremony.
We stopped to walk in a different jungle and pick up some survival tips. I think there would be a lot of things to worry about.
Our guide used the machete to scrape against the tree and these gigantic ants came running out from the ground. These are bullet ants. They contain a neurotoxin in their sting that last for some time.
This is a species of eucalyptus that when cut has a resin that is used to start fires even if the wood is wet. We actually used some of this tree bark to start our campfire on the overnight hike.
A fun hike, glad we did not get close to the bullet ants.
I know many wildlife conservationists know that swimming with dolphins is not good for their well being. I still wanted to see them. I had seen them at times in the wild from the canoe while moving around during my Amazon stay, but I wanted to experience them closer.
The pink dolphins in the Amazon are known as Amazon river dolphins or boto. They are freshwater dolphins native to the Amazon and Orinoco river basins in South America. They have a pink color, which is more prominent in males and becomes brighter during the mating season.
We also went spotting for crocodiles. There were a few large ones that we saw and I had the chance to hold a baby for a few seconds. He was let back into the same location on the thick grass near the edge.
Of course there are toads. This is the most common one we saw.
The Harpy Eagle (Harpia harpyja) is prominent in the Rio Negro region of Brazil. It is one of the largest and most powerful eagles in the world, known for its impressive size, strength, and distinctive appearance. It is found in the tropical lowlands along the Rio Negro.
If you look at the shoreline you can see the tea color of the water of the Rio Negro. It is caused by decomposition of the vegetation here and the acidic compounds make it that color. It also is not a good breeding ground for mosquitoes so though there are some mosquitoes it is not a lot. It is also a very clear water.
We also took some canoe trips to look around the area and look for animals.
We also took a canoe to look at some structures that were left behind when they could not finish constructing a hotel. It was a relaxing canoe ride but on the way back a few of us fell asleep and arrived back to the lodge a bit pink like the dolphins.
You can see the structures from a distance.
We were not able to get out of the canoe to get closer as the grass was thick in the area to take the canoe through and there were crocodiles in the area. Instead we stopped at another resort to get in the water and get some snacks.
Okay. I am not fond of camping but I wanted to sleep in the Amazon to see what it is like.
I gathered my sturdy hiking boots, long pants and shirt, bug spray, a 2 L bottle of water, and a good rain jacket. That is really all that is needed. I bought a portable power bank but really did not use much battery as there is no cellular signal or WiFi.
We went by canoe from the Anaconda island where the lodge is located to a location in the state of Amazonas.
Mosquitoes are actually not as prevalent as I thought thanks to the slightly dark colored water here. It looks like coca cola when being poured into a glass and has been described as tea colored.
The coloring is due to the high concentration of organic matter such as tannins and humic acids that are leached from decaying vegetation. These compounds are released when plants decompose in the forests. The waters of the Rio Negro also have a low mineral content,along it more transparent. It is easy to see the dark color.
The trek was 1 km inland from the Rio Negro.
Tying up the hammocks and mosquito nets.
After finishing dinner, the rain started and it didn’t stop all night. We went into the hammocks and talked, chilled out and went to sleep.
I woke up on and off through the night and recorded a few sounds. It had been described as being very loud, but so are crickets in rural western PA. We heard birds, insects, and monkeys but since it was raining there was much less activity.
The next morning…. And no it hasn’t stopped raining yet.
A shower was first on the list. There is no power in the cabins from 6 am to 6 pm and also no Wifi. There is wifi at the lodge itself and is powered by solar power. Not a fancy place to stay but it has what you need. I have to say that the fish here is amazing. And, there is a pool….
Manaus is a smaller sprawling city with very little tall buildings. I love the old world charm. It is the city you come to when you head into the Amazon (that adventure is next).
I dipped my toes in the water. It was really warm but had not planned to swim there. I came to the beach for photos, people watching, and to find something to eat. Many of the restaurants near the hotel are closed on Sunday.
After walking along the beach, I went to a local 4 star hotel but they were closed for dinner until a little later in the evening. There was a particular fish I wanted to try. Instead I went to a food stall as one of the items in the menu was Tacacá. Tacacá is a traditional Brazilian soup from the Amazonas region. It’s made with a broth of jambu leaves (a local herb that causes a tingling sensation in the mouth), dried shrimp, yellow manioc flour, and sometimes tucupi (a broth made from manioc root). It also had shrimp (Camarones) in it. It’s a hot soup and is a favorite type of street food here. I was excited that this vendor took credit cards (many do even if you are only buying a soda). Because I arrived at 2:30 in the morning, I didn’t have a chance to exchange currency to pay in cash). The soup was a little gelatinous in some parts and tasted acidic. But now, I think that has more to do with the numbing effect of the jambu.
I also ordered “Petisco da Tio Socorro” which is a local dish. It’s common in Brazil for eateries to use the term “Tio” (uncle in Portuguese and Spanish) into their names, often followed by a person’s name or nickname. The word “petisco” means an appetizer or snack in Brazilian cuisine. Using these clues, “Petisco da Tio Socorro” is a type of appetizer or snack specific to that particular vendor. No matter, it is fried dough with a thick sauce that reminded me of Indian gravy with shrimp in them. It was very good too.
I walked for a bit afterwards towards the center of Manaus. I have been increasing activity with my ankle throughout the past two days.
I saw the Unba sushi bar on my walk. I was still a little hungry and glad I stopped. They had the fish I wanted to try and even better as it was in a ceviche. Ceviche is “cooked” with an acidic sauce and one of my favorite dishes. The fish is called Arapaima gigas, also known as pirarucu.
Pirarucu is a freshwater fish native to the Amazon Basin. It is one of the largest freshwater fish species in the world and can grow up to 3 meters (which is 10 feet!). It can weigh 180 kg (which is around 400 pounds!). It is similar to cod or halibut and was delicious served with a thick sweetened soy sauce.
From the balcony of the sushi bar I thought I would be able to see the sunset but there were too many clouds that afternoon. Beautiful nonetheless.
The hotel I stayed in is called the Casa perpetua d charm in the centro histórico. Tall ceilings, old architecture, very beautiful….
After some searching through channels, I did find that they were showing the Superbowl! Or is in Portuguese but I can see the scores and the half time show. What they don’t show is all the commercials! I’ll see them on playback on my cable box when I get home.
During school in January, reports came out about curfews and other changes to crack down on notorious drug gangs and problems in the prisons as most were under the control of the inmates. It was mostly due to one of the biggest drug lords having also escaped.
At first, we were not sure what to believe as there were many fake news stories just to create further panic. But we went home, stocked up on food (not like the US where everyone is buying toilet paper) and we prepared to go to online learning. Originally it was for 3 days but ended up being two weeks.
We are still under a curfew of midnight until 5 am which is fine for me. I am hardly out late as it is. Many of the cities near the coast do have a problem with crime and prison control but in Quito not as much to worry about. They have regained control of many prisons and also conducted raids that extended into other countries. The latest is a dual operation in Ecuador and Spain that uncovered illegal activity involving criminal organizations from multiple other countries. Much information had actually not been reported so as to not tip off those criminal organizations.
Regardless, I did not venture out for much of the first week except to get food. After that, I did some walks around the neighborhood and a few other things:
Life feels pretty normal except for curfew, but it has changed whether I will need traveling some areas anytime soon.