Due to the pandemic, there were no dragon boat races but plenty of dinners with friends as we had a day off during the week.
I met Claire at Taikoo Hui, a very upscale mall with stores I can’t afford. I usually come here for Godiva ice cream. We met at Putien which is featured in the Michelin guide. I tried purely Cantonese fair which included pig intestine and jellied pork trotters. I just tried. I don’t eat meat but you have to try something new. The yellow croaker was delicious as well as the purple seaweed. The greens were cooked with a duck eggs and pretty rich.
Afterwards we walked nearby to where a flea market was to be. It is mostly restaurant stalls and other things and was packed with people waiting. They only allow so many in at a time. It actually looks really cool and will plan to go another time.
On dragonboat day I went to get my 8th virus test. This one is so I can travel to Yunnan the next week. My friend Elaine went with me as she had been there before. The western clinics charge ten times as much. It would have been easier to go to the other clinic as we have to translate forms and even step in to type my English name in their computer. But the savings in money was worth it.
We then went out for a Western breakfast.
We decided to go shopping in the Fashion Hub. This shopping area is underground the sports center. You can get lost back here. You can make pottery, play games, eat, shop, and there are plenty of photo op areas. It is the craziest and most fun place.
That night I went to Catch at the Four Seasons for a friend’s birthday. Tricia was really surprised we were there and the food was delicious. It is on the 100th floor of the hotel.
There were tents set up outside s large mall. What in thought was a food festival was instead shopping if handcrafts and fun.
All of this was the end of two weeks of summer school. It was good pay but very tiring with STEM classes.
I took a tour with Cycle Canton to escape the city (after all I need to get out of this city of 17 million and get to nature). We cycled through the beauty of rural Zengcheng district and celebrated the arrival of lychee season in the countryside.
We traveled 2 hours by bus before assembling where they had the bikes. There was a Taoist temple there and snacks and water. It is supposedly bad luck to take a picture of the Temple. How could this year be any worse?
I took the shorter of the 2 bike rides for a total of 23 km. We stopped often as it was very hot and we needed to drink water and allow others to catch up.
We passed through lychee, banana, and papaya orchards as well as gardens.
We passed through several villages. At one, there was an old factory that had a chimney. A banyan tree started growing at the top and it was considered bad luck to remove it. When the factory was abandoned the village decided to keep the chimney as the tree was growing roots through it to the ground.
Another had an old building that was used to protect the village before China was unified into a republic and warlords protected each village.
We had snacks of hard boiled eggs, sweet potatoes, cherry tomatoes, and fruits (enough for a lunch) in a village before finishing and ending up at the lake.
Unfortunately I have no pictures of the lake as we were so hot we spent the whole time just standing in the water. During that time, we were about to see the solar eclipse. It was not as easy to see as it was very cloudy out but I was still able to get some good pictures.
It was also lychee picking season. This area is renowned for it’s lychees. We enjoyed them at every stop.
A very tired day and slept on the bus ride home. It was nice to get a different exercise besides running and walking.
It was a wonderful night of sleep in the village. Quiet and peaceful. Of course we were up late with rice wine and games but it was still a good sleep. Lots of roosters around so most people were not as happy that they were getting up a little earlier. We had time to relax before breakfast.
The Yau minority women stop cutting their hair at the age of 18. If sections do need cut they keep the lengths to make a larger hairpiece as a bun at the top of their head. The shine and health of the hair is amazing. They use the water that they soak the rice in as a rinse.
After breakfast we started our trek back through the terraces, this time going in another direction to see another village and the terraces from a different perspective. We walked through jungle on clay and rock paths winding up mountains and back down the other side. My hiking pole purchase was a great idea. The hike also took us through the terraces where we walked on the paths that Villagers use.
At the Dazai village we wandered around.
At the top of the viewing platform. More stairs up and then more stairs back down!
On the way down we stopped to have tea with a friendly villager. I bought two kinds of dried mushroom and also a tea I’ve never had before. This is made from the inside of a mature fruit and it makes a naturally sweet tea. It is called Luo Han Guo.
Another hike and we were at Danzai village where we ate lunch then walked to the parking lot at the base of the cable cars (there is an easier way to see the terraces!)
After a two hour plus bus ride and then a similar length high speed train ride we were home. It only rained once we were on the bus. It was perfect weather considering we are in South East Asia and it is the wet season. At the train station we took over a row of massage chairs!
On a last note, we had to register our names, passport, copy of negative covid-19 test, date arrived back in China, quarantine dates, etc. The police had our itinerary and followed up at every stop requesting those people collect and submit our information again. By the end of the trip we were pretty tired of the scrutiny and the fact that many people have our personal information. Good thing a consulate person was with us as this will be addressed at a higher level. On the train we were asked to show our passport arrival stamp when we came back to China. Myself and a few others refused. Traveling as foreigners is still contentious.
After an early morning run and a full breakfast we made it way to the train station to meet everyone that on the tour.
We took a 2 hour bus ride to Longji terrace. This guy hooked a ride on the bus the whole way.
We hiked to the restaurant in PingAn village. They make their own rice wine here.
Longji Rice Terraces, which means Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces, was given its name because the rice terraces resemble a dragon’s scales and the mountain range looks like the backbone of a dragon. It is noted as one of the most beautiful rice terraces in the world and has taken 600 years to build.
We visited the “Seven Stars Accompany the Moon”, which is made of seven small piles of rocks left on purpose by people when they dig up the terraces and a moon-shaped terrace in the middle.
We also went to another platform called “Nine Dragons and Five Tigers”. The nine ridges spread from the main vein of Dragon’s Backbone, which look like nine dragons bending over to drink water from the Jinsha river.
We then hiked to Zhongliu village. We had to go up and over larger hills and walked around the rice Terraces. Throughout the jungle were other rice Terraces and crypts or vaults built into the terraces were found for those who died.
There are many ethnic groups dwelling in that area and they account for more than one third of local total population. Our night was a homestay with a family from the local Yao minority. Their one street dog followed us the whole way. I learned to speak Chinese to ask if I could give him the leftover pork. There Chinese lessons are paying off.
I booked a tour to visit the Dragonback rice terraces in Guanxi province. A few co workers were going up a day early to relax and I joined them. I’m not sure my cats trust I’m coming back…
We stayed at the Zen tea house. It is beautiful with many outdoor spaces and a beautiful room.
There was quite a lot of rain before we arrived. Lots of places were flooded by the Li River.
We booked a food tour with the hotel. They took us to the wet market first to talk about local produce and what is special to this province.
The first stop was fortune cake. It is like birthday cake here in China. It is sweet and tasty but not rich and overly sweet like Western desserts. It is something passed down from a long time ago. It is made from taro and brown sugar. Different herbs and ingredients can change the colouring. It is wrapped in banana leaves to bake. This man had been making it just like his grandmother and is one of the few still carrying on the tradition. She is in the poster behind him. It tastes like plum pudding. It is a steamed cake with the top part being stickier than the bottom.
We were showed sweet potato noodles. I have always wondered what they were made of when I have seen then before and never really tried any. We were given a couple nests as a gift.
Other things we looked at or asked questions about:
I pointed out these things and was told that these are water chestnuts. They are dug out of the mud along the banks of the river. The second picture is when they are washed. They were amazing. I’ve never had them fresh before. I’ll never buy canned again. They peeled them in front of us and we were able to try them. It was amazing.
Yes, they had live animals but they were all frogs, fish, turtles, crustaceans, and fowl. Yes there is a bunny there too. I wanted to buy them and set them free.
This is monk fruit. You cut it and boil it to make a tea. We were given that and spices to try when we get home.
This is Gingko fruit. It comes from the female tree. The seeds smell awful and need to be thrown away but the flesh is supposed to be tasty. A fact I know: Western cities plant the Gingko tree as the roots don’t destroy concrete but they have to plant the male tree so there are no smelly fruit.
We next went to visit the palace. Along the way we picked up snacks like dried taro which have the consistency of potato sticks, dried ginger, and biscotti made from moon cakes sliced very thin. We also tried red bean, pear and mushroom, and sweet potato snacks. At the palace the man who a couple centuries ago completed all 7 tests to be considered a wise man in China was honored. This takes your whole life and is tough learning and tests. Only a handful of people achieve such greatness and, in the past, one of the gates is only accessible to those with the great knowledge.
We visited the various gates and looked at the old sections that are about 600 years old. In the old part of the village the Chinese way of tearing down houses but keeping the brick to use in the new construction makes the buildings still look like they are old. But the guide pointed out walls that were original add not rebuilt.
We walked around the palace and to wooden dragon lake that feeds into the Li River.
We then walked to the other end of the lake and towards the tower to a vegetarian buffet operated by monks. It was a delicious meal. I don’t know the names of the dishes as he left us at this point but everything was delicious.
After dinner we walked around a bit by the lake.
Tomorrow we meet up with the rest of the tour group to go to the rice terraces. It was a fun day with a small group.
It has been officially over for two days. Starting out the year as what we would call normal, we left for Chinese New year thinking we will have a great two week vacation. Who knew it would have ended like this?
The second half of the year was surreal. Walking through rooms not being used and seeing calendars and notes left by teachers to remember things for when they return. It is all weird.
We started school with only about 1/3 of the faculty. Temp checks, teaching online and face to face at the same time, watching other classes while trying to grade assignments. Planning for the start of the next year not knowing what it will actually look like… We also are planning summer school and the amount of resources is a lot. I’m using microbit and making a model of the brain with sensors. This starts next week.
The past few weeks saw senior graduation, modified awards assemblies and only a few teacher get together with the faculty that is left. I think the thought is we can’t have a dinner without all faculty being here but it is cruel not to allow us some time to unwind with all that we are doing.
Friends from other schools. I’ve gone on a couple of tours and a person I met some time ago messaged me. We’ve formed quite a little group of people who like to get out and see the sites and hike.
We went to hike baiyun mountain again but rain got in the way. We ate brunch, hiked an upscale mall, and then walked to Jujiang park. There was a student covid-19 art exhibit in the mall.
The last day of school was a half day for students. Teachers had a lunch and then a farewell assembly for teachers going on to other schools. At the end of the day we went to a local bar for a get together. It was well attended and had more people then in past years despite the fact we have less teachers. At the end of the night, a few of us went to the four seasons and to the top of the tower to the 99th floor. The view is spectacular.
Now that I’ve had a couple days to unwind, I’m off to do a tour and then start summer school.
I took a trip with Pacha Mama over the weekend. They always find great hiking trips. This trip was to a geopark in the province that is made of red sandstone. With erosion over the centuries, it has created a variety of landforms.
Mount Danxia is about 1 hour high speed train to Shaoguan and another hour or so drive from Guangzhou. That drive takes you to a very different place in China. It is one of the two UNESCO heritage sites in Guangdong province. The draw of this place for the Chinese is the two rock formations that resemble male and female anatomy.
Mount Danxia was beautiful with s variety of trails all with amazing views. There were narrow paths along steep cliffs.
After traveling there and eating a yummy lunch we took a boat ride through the park.
The hike was pretty spectacular with steep, wet stairs. This was to be a sunset hike but impending rain changed our plans.
After making our way up the stairs along the cliff, we were now at the top.
The next morning were supposed to have a sunrise hike but they had closed the opening of the park until 8 due to rain. It didn’t rain though.
Grotto temple built during the Ming Dynasty. It was abandoned when China became PRC.
A few more stairs again to the pavilion at the top.
Then we had to go back down the stairs that were very narrow and steep.
Biechuan Temple
Walking back towards the entrance.
Xianglonghu lake means flying dragon. It refers to the shadows of the lake when flying overhead as it resembles a dragon. Here we saw children feeding the fish.
The female rock is called Yinyuanshi.
We stayed at a quaint little hotel in the base of the park. Our was a great weekend with people from all over the world.
The new rules and policies for Covid-19 have become routine now. Students and teachers have settled in. Now that the high school and middle school have it under control, grades 4-5 started at the elementary school last week and the lower grades start this week. Preschool and kindergarten have not started.
We received an email about a situation over the weekend. Here is what we were told:
No cause for alarm.
Note: We all live far from school and are bussed. There are 4 bus routes.
On one route, the teachers and staff were left off on Thursday afternoon.
The driver then took non school people to the airport.
One of the people tested positive after they made it to their home city.
The bus driver was tested and is negative.
All facility and staff were tested and are negative.
Everyone wore their mask.
The CDC and education authority have cleared the employees and allowed us to continue with physical school.
What does that mean?
It means that asymptomatic cases are still a problem everywhere. Since elementary students are going back, I saw more people on the street in what I would consider close to normal activity.
Now since everyone is mingling, those asymptomatic people will spread it to others. But if you don’t want an epidemic….
Protocols, rules, and guidelines are the only way you can operate.
Every time we get on the bus, we have a checklist for our name and our temp is taken.
Wherever we are going whether it be school or airport or a store, our temperature is taken (and our name is recorded).
On our arrival at school this morning, there was police presence in the street checking for compliance (distancing, masks…). I did not take a direct picture as that can get you in trouble anywhere you travel. Also, there were more medical personnel on hand when we went through the temperature scanners, most likely from the CDC.
Before I found out about this I was invited to a hike, a dinner and a brunch this last weekend. There are still many people not going out in the city. Our faculty do not all go out together right now.
I am also grateful my school gave us a little mixer on Friday afternoon before we boarded the buses. Not being in a public school means they can have wine, beer, and snacks for us. We all sorely needed that interaction and it was a great way to start the weekend.
5 rams park (Yuexiu park)
Claire and I were up for some city hiking. I ran half way there and then made the rest of the way to the entrance. That part of the entrance was closed. We are used to many entrances being blocked in parks and malls, etc. to temperature scan and control the amount of people. We went to this entrance so that we can take the skybridge which is an elevated 8 km walk way that goes above ground from here to Baiyun mountain. Unfortunately it was closed due to impending bad weather.
From here we decided to do walk to Baiyun but on the street. Definitely not as scenic and it is a part of the city I am not very familiar with. Once at Baiyun we were to tired to hike the mountain. I snapped some pictures.
From here I walked part of the way back to where Claire lived to walk through a garden park I had not been to yet. Jufang garden park was very pretty and on the other side of it I took a Didi home as it was another 11km from here.
That night I dined at Mercato with a couple people I know and more teachers from other schools I had not met before. It was great to hear what their schools are doing. I’m lucky as no one at my school had lost jobs, been asked to go to school on Saturdays, or had our year extended. It was excellent food, but I was so hungry I forgot to take pictures. I did take a picture of the view from the terrace though.
The next day I met Claire and Morgana at 13 factories for brunch. (Again too hungry I forgot to take a picture).
13FACTORIES takes its name from the area of the same name in the old part of Guangzhou. This area is where the first foreign trade was allowed during the Qing dynasty, and much like America, a unique place where people from all over the world came to interact. Today, 13FACTORIES aims to create a place in the spirit of the original, a gathering of international friends combined with the sharing of delicious food and drink in a comfortable, casual atmosphere.
But we decided to splurge and we went elsewhere for cinnamon rolls after we had talked for a few hours.
It was great to have different interactions over the weekend.
I am glad I met Claire and hiked with her. She suggested going to the museum here. I had never been as I do not know how to get tickets. They do have a free section but recently had European artists featured. A ticket needed to be bought which she did for me as I could but register in advance. Their system does not take passport numbers, only Chinese ID. She called and found that I could register when I arrive.
There was quite the line to get in as it was the last day of the exhibition.
The artists in the exhibition ranged from the start of the Renaissance through to Impressionism. There were quite a variety of styles and artists on loan from the St. Louis museum.
There were plenty of places to take selfies. I generally do not take advantage of those.
There was however only one Renoir, Rembrandt, and Monet.
Some of the art that I was drawn to:
Afterwards we went to find something to drink. Did to covid-19 you could not but refreshments there and wearing a mask is tiring and hot. I have wanted to try the tofu drink and with Claire’s help knew what I was ordering. It is nice to ask them not to put sugar in it. It was good like a rich milkshake. On to are 3 rice rolls on a long toothpick.
Tours are just starting up again and after receiving confirmation that we can leave the city but stay in the province, I was excited to see this tour offered. I have gone on trips with Banana Tours since it started. They always put on a great tour. This one was 2 hours bus ride out of the city. We needed a correct Suikang code that is not red, had our temperatures checked multiple places, and needed to wear a mask. We could take it off when hiking. As it was very hot and humid we would often walk away from the group to take the mask off for a brief time.
This is the largest river island in Guangdong just south of the Dinghu mountains. The island has an area of about 6 square kilometers. According to the legend, Bao Zheng (a famous upright official who had true integrity in Chinese history) returned to the capital in the Northern Song Dynasty (1042 AD). When the ship passed the Antelope Gorge, he threw an inkstone and then it became into an island, that’s why it is named as “Yanzhou Island”. Bao stopped epidemics by drilling wells for clean water. He established schools and integrity in government for all to prosper.
A short walk to look over the river. This area is a place to go for the devout.
We boarded two shuttle carts to go to another part of the island to look at village buildings. During the cultural revolution, professionals from the cities were sent to rural areas to help society. I visited a museum with memorabilia from Mao’s reign. Villagers were selling produce very cheap. 2 large cucumbers were 2 kuai or 30 cents.
We visited a temple in the village.
We then went to a great Cantonese restaurant on the island. There were lots of vegetarian choices.
Antelope Gorge ancient plank road is located in the east of Antelope Mountain, it has been well known as one of the “Little three Gorges” in Zhaoqing since Tang dynasty. We boarded a ferry to go back across and then on to hike Antelope Gorge.
We hiked for 5 km and had lots of up and down stairs before turning around to head back.
After returning to Guangzhou I key up with Killian and Elaine to go out for dinner. Fun! Killian ate chicken feet. We all had Western style cheesecake with rich sweet frosting.
A great day with some people from school and a new friend I met, Morgana from Canada who teaches at a school in the city. Finishing up with other friends was an added treat!