admin

Home for the holidays

As I was preparing to leave for the US, a number of celebrations were enjoyed with friends. Home is any place where you have family, friends, and a sense of belonging. Sometimes it is more than one place.

Dinner at a sauerkraut fish place with Jack. Of course I saw the menu and noticed pig brain.

Not having tried it before, we ordered it too. It really had no specific taste but was quite good.

I hosted a Thanksgiving dinner with friends and the food was delicious. Some favorites of the holidays and others a mixed bag of other international dishes

I am blessed to have so many beautiful people in my life.

My ugly Christmas sweater I made for the staff holiday party. LED lights make the fire glow

Friends at the school held a cookie exchange.

The school wide holiday Bazaar was also fun with great games for students and all things Christmas.

It is difficult to say goodbye to friends leaving the country you are in but we know it is not goodbye but until I see you again. My friend Trisha is going back to the UK.

And of course dragon boat which is my weekend hobby, exercise, and time with more friends.

This year I went out of my comfort zone and played the bass clarinet in a teacher ensemble for the students. I also performed a pantomime with other teachers for the whole school.

Before I knew it, it was time to leave for the US. I left lessons for when I am gone in January, made sure there was plenty of food for the kitties and people to take care of them, and planned my packing. A COVID test less than 24 hours old was required to get on the plane. At the airport, I ate in the China southern lounge.

After an uneventful flight to LA, the rest was a travel nightmare. Spirit airlines cancelled 8 flights and waited until boarding time to announce. Without a US sim card, I had no cell phone off of wifi. With the help of another kind person, I found a flight from John Wayne airport fire the next morning and she dropped me off at a hotel across from the airport.

I arrived 12 hours after I was originally to land in Pittsburgh where I went to my son Ryan’s apartment. He cooked a yummy falafel meal and it was great to finally be near him. Talking on the phone for three last 2.5 years was difficult.

The next morning I planned to renew my driver’s license, get a COVID vaccine, and walk around Pittsburgh to where Ryan works. It had been some time since I have been in a smaller city and could see beyond huge skyscrapers. It was an enjoyable walk through the different areas of Pittsburgh.

The hot metal bridge area in the Southside is where trains and barges brought coal to make steel. Along the river were many historical relics from that time.

For lunch I stopped at double wide grille. Here they have all kinds of food including vegan and vegetarian. It is located in an old gas station and the food is so good here.

Afterwards we drove to my brothers house in the country. I planned on staying here for the rest of the week before going back to Ryan’s. I drove to see my old friends at punxsutawney high school and just relax and watch movies. I also need time to get new credit cards and take care of the mail I received the last 2 years. On a run that week, it started to snow and the wind was brisk. A big weather change from Guangzhou.

I will also be traveling to Wisconsin to see Becca. I am sure it will be cold there.

Traveling in the age of covid

I had not posted about the process of having traveled to a medium or high risk area here in China. The last time I was actually quarantined for 3 days and was anxious about this time. This is what happens in China. I must note that high risk area might only have a dozen cases and they quickly lock Dien anxious buildings and test all the contacts of those people. All of this takes the numbers down quickly.

I not only had the covid test to get on the plane in Shanghai, but everyone had one when they came off the plane. They are really organized and streamlined. The process only took 45 minutes. They made sure by taking us by bus so that people did not walk through the airport and mingle before getting the test. Once back home you must contact your community health office. I messaged mine through the WeChat app (they are used to dealing with me….). I must have 3 more tests in the next 13 days. I have documents that get the tests for free but must be completed at a specific center. I can go to work but asked to limit my gatherings with people. At issue will be the Christmas party which is on my 13th day. I may not be allowed to go (and this time many more people from school also traveled to Shanghai). If you miss tests, they will change your code to restrict your movement.

The process: They had an organized line from baggage which gave time to register or open the app. This gives a qr code tied to your phone number and passport. This way it shows on your health code and is tracked if anyone on the plane shows positive test result.

This is the qr code for the app. A worker scans the code then scans the bar code of the test vial.

Multiple stations are used for rapid throat swabs. Then you are free to go. You have to contact the local health officer in your neighborhood or you will be tracked down.

This is the suikang health code that keeps all testing and vaccination records. I show this code every day to go to school and to enter my apartment building. You also show it when you enter any commercial or government building. It can be turned yellow or red if you do not get the tests or was in a high risk area. You cannot enter buildings if that happens or may be quarantined.

In the suikang code you can click to see the Nucleic acid test results. They all show here and is pretty handy so you don’t have to go back and get the result on paper. The first one is my test at the airport and was completed in 5 hours.

This is another app that shows where you have been. There is a little asterisk that shows I was in an area with cases. It will go away after 14 days and then will only show being in Guangzhou. But until then I may not be allowed in some places. Places with high volume will look at this app and not the other one.

This is what a red code looks like. You would be quarantined in your apartment or a quarantine facility and not able to go anywhere. I have obviously been quarantined from travel. Thankfully not this last one.

The happiest place on Earth

Disney. More specifically, Shanghai Disney.

I went to visit my friend Cat and her son Rowan in Shanghai. I debated going knowing that the cases they just had of covid had been cleared. In fact China had 900 cases pop up over the whole country and within a month had them down to no new cases. As stringent as it is, the extensive contract tracing, quarantine of those in high risk areas, and massive testing works. Now if more were vaccinated, we might not have to do this quite so much….

So on Thanksgiving day we had a full day of professional development followed by a Thanksgiving dinner and celebration and I left directly to the airport for my flight. I arrived late and the next morning we were going to Disney.

What is funny about this Disney is that there are more adults than children and the adults are dressed up in Disney attire.

Main street.

Some interesting sculptures in the park. It had been a long time since I’ve been to Disney.

The soaring over the horizon ride was pretty amazing. It was as if you are parasailing over the areas but you can actually smell what it would be. The African savannah smelled of earth, India had a rose petal smell, the smell of the ocean, spray of water…..

https://youtu.be/V_eFUt3_WSc

Pirates of the Caribbean was also great. It was weird hearing the characters speak Chinese.

https://yout u.be/eQu-o4W4lbM

Who could resist a chestnut waffle. Yum.

Tron was a pretty amazing ride. You were on these bikes and the ride not only was inside but out as well.

After eating the waffle we were actually too full. We don’t usually find good waffles here in China so that is a once in awhile treat. We walked around Alice’s garden to work it off.

Then it was off to marvel studios.

I took my mask off for a minute to take this picture. I was told to get the mask back on…

And there is this picture with the wasp… Socially distanced of course… So I can take off my mask.

We picked up cheesecake from the cheesecake factory and after getting back to my friends house received word that another friend who was visiting Shanghai could not leave to go back to Guangzhou without a negative covid test. It turned out this morning there are three cases in Shanghai over 45 minutes away from where I am staying. Within hours 182 close cases to the 3 friends are in quarantine, the buildings are locked down, and 55,278 people were tested. I went and received a covid test as I cannot fly back without one ( many people from my school are here). I’m going to try to get an earlier flight. Once back home I will have to report to the community health office and whatever other requirements they ask for I will have to do. As I was not in one of the areas I should only have to take 2 more covid tests in 72 hours after returning… I hope that is all. My district is strict…..

Summer (it’s over….?)

I honestly forgot about this post that was lounging in my drafts. And summer continues until a few weeks ago when the weather started to turn cooler.

The summer was interesting. An increase in cases in Guangzhou meant more difficult travel. As I was taking 60 hours of leadership classes I stayed in the city for much of the summer. This summer I only traveled a little to Beijing and Inner Mongolia.

I took some breaks for nature areas in Guangzhou.

This summer was also the 100th anniversary of the communist party. It is interesting to note that the nationalist party that started to bring China to the modern age and ended the Dynasty and warlords period, was overthrew by the communists because there was no free speech. The nationalists would not accept any dissent. That is what is true of the communists today.

A new pedestrian bridge was built to cross the river.

Working internationally means people come and go frequently. Celebrations and going away parties…

Construction in the apartment upstairs meant finding another place to work. This time in a coffee house in my neighborhood.

Occasionally in feeding the homeless you get an opportunity to help furry friends.

And of course, DragonBoat….

Physical pursuits

I do like to stay active. If I keep moving maybe old age can’t catch up with me! Wishful thinking I know, but I am not as fast as I used to be and have changed some of what I do. But I like staying in shape.

Where our dragonboat group meets has stand up paddleboarding. That is something I miss from living in PA. I paid for a year membership and now go paddleboarding after every dragonboat practice that I can. A few of us go each time.

Tricia who was so brave to go even being afraid of water.

I also ran a half marathon for charity which was a fun circle around the river.

Jack and Justin, the other cross country coach at school, were part of our team Too fast, too hot. We named it after the cross country team who complained with those words every practice!

Dragonboat has been a great workout for my arms, shoulders, and abs. I even extended myself by learning to paddle with my non-dominant arm to learn more coordination. I am glad for the chance to improve a physical skill that I did not have much experience in. It is a great community of wonderful people. I usually show up to both trainings on the weekend.

We have been training for a 21km race but I will miss that. I will get back in shape for dragonboat once I come back from the US.

Shigatse to Gyantse in Tibet

We traveled 370 km on the last day. It was a lot of time in the van but a few gorgeous stops along the way.

Palcho monastery

Built in 1427, the most prominent feature is the giant stupa. This one is different from others and has 5 floors and 68 prayer rooms. It is named Gyantse Kumbum. In each of the tiny chapels are exquisite paintings (kumbum means 100,000 images). It is important to follow a clockwise route around which is the same in any of the monasteries. The murals survived the Cultural Revolution though some statues had to be restored.

The monastery is unique in Tibet as it houses three separate schools of Tibetan Buddhism under its roofs – Sakya, Gelug, and Kadam. The monastery has aspects of Chinese Han, Tibetan, and Nepali architecture, and is one of the highest status monasteries in Tibet. Inside the temples are beautiful statuary.

Simila pass and Manla reservoir

Simila Pass is at an elevation of 4200 meters. The pass is unique to others due to the greater amount of countless colorful Tibetan prayer flags decorating rock faces. In this winding mountain pass, the wind here waves the prayers in beautiful patterns. The Manla Reservoir is the biggest dam in Tibet.

Karola glacier

The glacier originates at Mt. Noijin Kangsang (7,191m), which is one of the four holy mountains of Tibet.

This stupa is just for decoration though monks did visit it when we were there

Yamdrotso lake

Yamdrok Yumtso, is a beautiful lake along the old Friendship Highway between Tibet and Nepal. It is at an altitude of 4,441 meters. Yamdrok is the largest inland freshwater lake in the northern Himalayan mountain range. Yamdrok Lake is one of the four largest sacred lakes of Tibet (the others are Lake Lhamo Latso, Lake Manasarovar, and Lake Namtso). According to Tibetans, the lake is a lifeline and if the lake dries up, Tibet would become an uninhabitable place. One is not to swim in it. Tibetans pilgrimage to the Lake and walk around the lake in seven days to remove their sins and earn merit. The lake’s spiritual energies are from the Second Buddha, Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet. It is also believed Lake Yamdrok helps to find the reincarnated soul of the Dalai Lama.

Along the way back to Lhasa, we made a few other stops due to traffic through the pass.

If you look closely in to the picture, yak poop is dried too use as fuel for cooking and heating.

To see the Himalaya mountain range

We drove a long time (8 hours and 340 km), stopped at several points, and had several checkpoints for ID. Travel was along the Shanghai Nepal road and where we stopped was at 5248 meters elevation. I definitely felt the lack of oxygen.

First glimpse of Everest along the pass.

Along the Gyitso pass we stopped for bathroom break and also to take pictures. You can purchase a prayer flag and write a recipient name on it. They tie it for you and the blessings and prayers are sent by the wind.

Here the option is to go on to Everest or continue on the other road to Nepal.

We hiked a short section to get to Everest base camp at 5,150 m elevation. The camp is located below the moraine slopes from the Central Rongpu Glacier. A moraine is the earth and rocks pushed by the Glacier when it was advancing.

One minute you can see it and the next it is converted in clouds. We are lucky to have had the weather we did that day.

We stayed in a large tent at the base camp. The blankets they use are very thick and the tent is heated by using dried sheep and yak poop. It actually gives off less ash and is more plentiful than wood. Our tour group was interesting : 1 Japanese, 1 Chinese, 1 American, 1 Brazilian, 1 Singaporean, 1 Russian, 2 Brits, and 3 Germans. We spent a lot of time together! The tent owner would cook fried rice with yak meat for dinner and an omelet or pancake for breakfast. Lowest temperature was – 4C at night.

The base camp for hiking Everest is another 4 km away. You can no longer get a permit to hike unless you have Sorvino prior experience. We are about 20 km to Nepal.

I came on this trip already with a headache and stuffy nose so not sure when or if I was acclimated to the altitude. But when I arrived at Everest base camp, I was definitely struggling. My vision pulsed with each heartbeat and I had no energy. I used a nasal cannula with oxygen for 30 minutes. I felt better and then continued to feel better as we went back down in elevation. My sports watch measures my pulse. My resting heart rate is normally 46 bpm but jumped to 68 after arriving in Tibet. No wonder it shows in under great stress.

The Tibetan name for everest is Chomolungma, meaning “Goddess Mother of the world”. This marker is the height at the top of Everest.

Himalaya means “abode of snow”. There is about 15,000 glaciers throughout the whole range. The Himalaya form an arc that separates the Indian subcontinent in the south from the Tibetan Plateau in the north. Many of the world’s major rivers, the Indus, the Ganges, the Brahmaputra and the Yangtze all begin here. The next three pictures are the Himalayan range. A panorama would not let me zoom in so close.

Along the way we could see Tibetan farmers cutting and taking hay by hand. They did lift the hay wagons pulled by tractors. They keep the hay in their yards to feed livestock.

Shigatse, Tibet

We drove a long time to get to Shigatse. Along the way we had to present our documents at a police checkpoint. You need a visa for Tibet and permits to move from one place to another. Plenty to see!

Am alpine goat who was happy that I shared my apple with him and his buddy.

River view of Brahmaputra, the mother of all the rivers that flow from here.

After we settled in the hotel we had time to grab a quick bite. I ordered Thupke, Tibetan noodles.

View of the hotel from inside the courtyard.

Tashilunpo monastery.

It is one of the few monasteries in Tibet to weather the destruction of cultural landmarks of the Cultural Revolution. It is as if time did still, and walking on the cobbled paths that wound around old buildings. The monastery is now the largest religious institution in operation in Tibet.

The huge golden statue of the Future Buddha is the largest gilded statue in the world. Pictures are not allowed to be taken there but many would pray outside the doors, touching their forehead on the top decoration on the floor.

We walked back to the hotel and stumbled upon a Muslim night market. People have been very friendly here in Tibet as foreigners have not been seen here in about 3 years.

Lhasa day 2

At breakfast, I ate more of the barley cereal and also tried butter tea. It tastes like rich butter dissolved in hot water. A bit to get used to and I’m sure my body needs this. Next time though I’ll add it to the barley cereal. I’m sure the Tibetan people cringe when they watch us do such things.

Potala palace

The palace was built in the 7th century AD when King Songtsen Gyalpo built a fortress on it for his two foreign wives (he also had a third Tibetan wife) . The left side of the palace was created in the magnificent vision today by the Fifth Dalai Lama. The Thirteenth Dalai Lama added on the right side of the structure to what we see today. The walls are 2 to 3 meters thick making it warm in winter and cool in summer.

The left side of the palace is the winter home of the Dalai Lama (7th century) . The right side is the newest addition to the building (14th century)

This looks down in potala Square, the Tibetan equivalent to Tiananmen Square. Of course the picture of the Dalai Lama can’t be shown so instead the president of China is.

Since 1755 it has become the winter palace of the Dalai Lama. There is over one thousand rooms including the living quarters of the Dalai Lamas while they lived and their golden tombs after they died. It is the religious and political centre of old Tibet bearing witness to various political and religious moments of the past centuries. Potala Palace also holds a great amount of rare ancient cultural relics.

Later at night we went back to take a picture. Beautiful!

There are many stairs to climb and it is very challenging especially as your body is just getting acclimated to the elevation.

The tour guide big chodon in front of cloth made with yak hair. In front of open spaces like windows it protects from wind, rain, and cold.

Many Tibetans were curious about the foreigners, saying hello, and coming up to speak to us or just stare at us! One young boy called me Faguo, which is Chinese for French. I just laughed. Most guess Meiguo (American) correctly.

Outside the palace the monks walked among the people. Many who are disabled were waiting there. The monks blessed them and gave them money. Money is also given to shrines on the outside.

“The first time I stepped onto the rooftop of the Potala Palace, I felt, as never before or since, as if I were stepping onto the rooftop of my being: onto some dimension of consciousness that I’d never visited before.” Pico Iyer

Jokhang Temple was also built in the 7th century AD to house the statues of Buddha that princesses Bhrikuti from Nepal and Wen Cheng from Tang Dynasty China brought as gifts for their future husband, King Songtsan Gambo (the one who built Potela palace for them). The original statue that Princess Wen Cheng brought over 1300 years ago is the most sacred and famous one. The temple is on Barkhor Square in the center of the old section of Lhasa. Our hotel was a 10 minute walk.

Barkhor street a circular street around the Jokhang Temple in the center of the old section of Lhasa, it is the oldest street in a very traditional style in Tibet, where you can enjoy bargaining with the local Tibetan vendors for the handicrafts which are rare to be seen elsewhere in the world. Barkhor Street is one of the most important religious paths along which pilgrims walk around Jokhang Temple while turning prayer wheels in their hands through centuries. Buddhist pilgrims walk or progress by body-lengths along the street clockwise every day into deep night. For your first visit to the Barkhor, enter from Barkhor Sq, a large plaza that was cleared in 1985. The square has become a focus for political protest and pitched battles between Chinese and Tibetans on several occasions, notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008

Lhasa Day 1

Breakfast was a buffet from the hotel and I was able to taste a few Tibetan dishes.

This dish uses barley powder, dried yak cheese, and a little sugar to mix with hot water to a cookie dough consistency. Tastes like barley but I added more water to make it like oatmeal.

The barley dish with toast and yak butter.

Being active is tough here but as the day wore on I felt a bit more acclimated.

Drepung monastery

The monastery was founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsong Khapa. Drepung had over 10 000 monks. As the biggest monastery in Tibet, the lamas helped train new Dalai Lama. There are now 600 monks. Drepung belongs to the Gelupa sect. In the past, if there are two sons in a Tibetan family, one son must become a monk. Now there is a choice. This monastery was the hole of the Dalai Lama before leaving Tibet.

Overlooking the monastery and the city of Lhasa.

In the courtyard, there will be dances during festivals and the Dalai lama would watch from the upper right window.

In front of the monastery. No pictures allowed inside.

The bathrooms are a long or with half walls. The last time I saw one like that was Yunnan.

Tibetan prayer flags (Lung tas) represent peace, wisdom, compassion and strength it is believed that the flags with the mantras and messages carry the goodwill out to others.

Sera monastery

Founded a few years later in 1419 by one of Tsong Khapa’s eight disciples, this temple became famous for its tantric teachings.

People pray as they walk clockwise around.

The paintings on this rock represent helpers. Wisdom is represented by yellow and blue is protection. These are Bodhisattvas and are male. Compassion is represented by white and longevity is green. These are Taras and are female.

Inside the sanctuary where monks meet for chant and prayer.

Other paintings

Yak butter. It is actually quite tasty.

At the end of the day, a group dinner with traditional music and dancing.