The end of the semester

Wow. That is over. One semester under my belt! When they say it takes a year to get used to international living and teaching IB they were not kidding. It did not help that I agreed to coach cross country. Actually the athletic director kept visiting (badgering) me until I relented. Never mind I had already agreed to student government co-advisor prior as well.

For the new teacher awards I received the “dive right in” award for taking things on right away. There is usually a rule that new teachers don’t coach but they were short on coaches. It was tough but I survived. Our awards were printed on paper plates! We had a great celebration dinner that night.

Above, my friends Nicole, Killian, and Steven. Below, Nicole and Siqin (Steven’s wife).

A Chinese alcohol with gold flecks in it.

Anyway, the start of the year is a blur as I barely figured out the day to day back then. 5 months in I feel I have hit my stride. There is still a lot to learn but things are a tad easier. I say that now right before my students start their IA (internal assessment which is a full research lab and paper.)

What has changed?

  • Things don’t seem so over whelming. I learned to settle in and stop fighting what was holding me back.
  • I know where to get my basic supplies. That is huge. When you are foreign and here for awhile you need to figure it out. I have not bought too much online either. If I can’t find it locally I decide what I can substitute instead.
  • I have learned a few useful phrases. Microsoft translator definitely helps. I am now taking a Chinese course. This is a tough language to learn.
  • I know how to get around on the metro. In fact I know how to get around above ground walking many places I need instead of the metro. For those who know me, I have no sense of direction!
  • I DON’T know yet how to get around by bus. How hard can that be? None of the stops are in English. You may know what bus number you need, but you may not know where you need to get off the bus. Still very difficult.
  • Many of the places we were at during orientation I have now found on my own. They seemed far away from each other but not so on the map. This city is HUGE and not sure I will actually see it all.
  • The frame of reference you use to understand biology is very different for other nationalities. In my last school, some kids had different experiences than others. That is still true here, but my American lens is different from theirs. Not better, just different. I have a lot to learn and for those who wondered why I left the states, IT IS FOR THAT REASON ALONE. I can be better by learning from others. (This next statement is political as I do not believe in American exceptionalism: We are part of a bigger world. Time to learn from it.)
  • I made a connection at an exercise class that led to joining the local Nike run club with another teacher. I seemed like an outsider a few times but everyone now is so welcoming. They come up to talk to us (those who know English that is.) I used that same exercise group to make connections for biking. Knowing Chinese Nationals outside of school is going to be helpful.
  • Grading mid terms takes a long time. 2/3 of my test is free response (that is about 53 points). It needs to be so to get them ready for their IB test. My stack of papers I graded. Grading is a pain. The kids have a lot of pressure with these tests.
  • Take time to try something new. I printed a 3D ornament using the 3D printers in the innovation lab. While I was there I also played with the VR headset. We have a human anatomy program. My classes will use it next year. Here are pics of a colleague using it. It is seriously cool as you can choose disease states of organs, slice through sections, and step into the center of the organs. As I play I’m going to look at screencasting and see if student teams can create tours.
  • 3D heart:
  • Cats helped me by having something to come home to. I could just be carefree but like taking care of a critter.
  • Reflecting on where your are at now and possible plans for the future allows for many choices!!

Hakka village

In the rural areas, families lived in Hakka houses. Each house bears a family name like the Huang family hakka that we visited today in Nanjing County, Fujian province in China. Each new generation and addition lives in the hakka. They have withstood centuries with very thick walls and a round structure for security and durability. They originally started with a square hakka and realized there was too much fighting over who had the corners. They then built the round hakkas around it. There is only one way in and out of the hakka, small windows, and thick walls. Until the last 20 years there was not much development in the area and no police presence so this type of building was necessary.

This picture was taken above the valley where the hakka houses are. They are built in a valley at 700 meters above sea level. It is protected by the mountains around. The bus could not get down into it so we took steps all the way down and of course all the way back up the other side to meet the bus again. All I can say is everyone moved slowly as almost everyone on the bus ran the half marathon or marathon the day before (this tour was part of the package for the race including hotel and meals) . My quads were screaming.

Inside the hakka a family unit has a section that runs all 3 floors. The bottom floor houses the kitchen and many have stove “units” on the patio. The second floor is for food storage and the top floor has the bedrooms.

The centre is a communal space. Since it is open to the air, many have trees, animals like chickens, wells, etc. The well looks as if it is spring fed.

It was fabulous to see where the fruit comes from and see the care they have for the land and the produce.

Families were working and children playing. They had nesting dolls.

To help make a living some of the villagers sell local produce. Teas, dried persimmon, bamboo shoots, etc.

When we walked in we were invited to tea. The chrysanthemum tea was so much better there than any other I have had. To date it is now my favourite tea. I did buy some from them as well as dried persimmon and ginger chews.

Around the hakkas can be seen other kind of houses. But what is worth seeing is the terraced fields. We saw rice terraces as well as tea terraces. These are used to make green tea or flower tea (chrysanthemum).

This is a picture taken from the bus and is a tea terrace.

We also saw pommelo trees in the picture above. The fruit is so heavy it is hard to believe the trees can hold the fruit up. On a personal note, I love how the local wet Market has change in produce. Now citrus is in season and pomelo is something I buy every week.

The views around the hakka house are amazing. We saw large wind turbines on the ridge.

After the bus picked us up we traveled a little bit down the road and stopped to take a picture. This is the view of the hakka houses we visited from below.

And… Another picture from the top of the mountain.

A close up of the inside from the top of the mountain.

Halong Bay Vietnam 🇻🇳

Note: if you ever come here, book with La Pinta cruise to Halong Bay. It is 5 star and unbelievable service.

A tour I booked before I left was to Halong Bay, which is along the coast. Three are 1969 karst islands there. The karst topography was created from the dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone, dolomite, and gypsum over time. The drainage systems created sinkholes and caves as a result. The remaining rock is quartzite.

They picked us up from our hotel in the old quarter in Hanoi. The 3 hour bus ride was in a very comfortable coach bus (WiFi, charger port…).

At the harbor, we boarded a ferry to take us to the boat.

Our room was ready after we finished the elaborate lunch and we were given some time to talk around and settle. Balcony to sit and look at the scenery was incredible as week as the amenities of the room.

We met to take the ferry to an outfitter boat that had kayaks ready for us. We kayaked for about an hour around the karst islands and learned about the history of halong Bay and the lives of people there. There is one island where people live: cat bau island and also in floating fishing villages.

When we were done kayaking, we could swim. It was only 20 meters deep but I am not a strong swimmer. After the assurance of the crew and other passengers they would save me, I decided to brave even more and go to the top of the ferry and jump off into the water. For some people that is no big deal but I am also afraid of heights! I did it and loved it. The salt water made you very buoyant so it was not an effort to swim. Every time though I was nervous. I am so glad I bought a go pro the day before we left Hanoi. I jumped once with someone filming me and another time holding the go pro.

After we returned there was time for a shower and then a 6 course dinner.

But before dinner there was a cooking class on how to make a spring roll. I’ve been doing it wrong. You wet a towel and you massage the spring roll paper while on the towel, turning it over and massaging the other side. It does not get completely pliable. You fill it and roll starting at one end and tucking the sides in. And then it ends up perfect. Who knew?

Dinner. So much food. Afterwards we could go squid fishing. I actually caught one and it squirted water as I pulled it up but it got away. One more lives another day!

This squid was caught from a member of the crew.

The next morning we woke early to view areas of the bay as the sun was rising. Beautiful.

We ate breakfast and then it was time to board the ferry to one of the floating fishing villages. From there we boarded bamboo boats that were piloted by a villager through the caves under one of the karst islands. They are very skilled as they maneuver through the stalactites in the cave.

Here is a fast tour of the bamboo boat tour through the caves :

Afterwards we had another six course meal: stir fry veggies with rice crackers, fried squid, fish, sticky rice with stir fry cabbage/carrots and stir fry prawns, flan with mango.

We then checked out and boarded the ferry to go back to the harbour and board the bus. I had a fantastic time and hated to leave. If you ever go to vietnam you must do this tour. La pinta cruise was the best.

The last week

The past week was pretty emotional. I woke up in China to news that my dad had passed away. I was able to get a flight within 4 hours which my school pays for bereavement.

It was good to see my kids, brother and sister in law, and my mom. It is hard to believe he is gone.

Helping my brother move his shop equipment, I remembered so much about the vise on his bench. I used to help him with work or when he was helping me fix something of mine.

While I was home I ran a 5k with my daughter as that is how we work through things.

In time the regrets and the good things I remember will be worked through.

Toilets in southeast Asia

My apartment has a Japanese toilet which is a bidet. However, it is variable about what you will be using when you are out. I learned quickly that you carry wipes or a pack of tissue to use. They do not flush paper as it clogs systems. Many toilets are squatty potties. A large hole in the floor where you squat to do your business. Then you flush. Handicapped bathrooms have Western toilets.

Here in Thailand they have squatty potties you but you use buckets of water to flush. Where there are Western toilets you will see this sign :

Funny.

At the hotel the western toilets have a spray hose for the bidet.

I am sure I have yet more to see.

More from Bangkok…

Went on a run this morning which is pretty hairy. Ended up on a back road and made eye contact with a street dog. It belongs to a family but I attracted the attention of 3 other dogs and that one growled and followed me. The owners were really nice and came out to yell at the dog. They stayed out until I was gone. I definitely attract more attention here than in guangzhou since this is not an expat community.

Passing a wet Market I saw a Buddhist monk giving prayers. I watched and it seems very ritualistic and respectful.

Back at the hotel we ran a boot camp style workout with the kids then let them swim for while. Here is the view from the swimming pool.

And through the bushes there is another great view of Bangkok.

We just got word we have a flight out this afternoon. Yeah. We are running out of clothes! There has been a lot of wind and rain there and students were sending video of glass subdued shattered from flying debris. I am sure there is probably school tomorrow.

The Thai night market

If you are looking for Street food there is plenty around but at the night Market it is amazing. Rows of vendors serving all kinds of dishes.

I really wanted to get the whole fish cooked on a spit but not enough time to eat it and see other things.

The mango sticky rice was amazing and something I will try to make myself. Glutinous rice, coconut milk, mango, and crispy rice on top.

We ate baby octopus.

We also ate Cooked quail eggs with mussels on top. They poach them on cast iron molds on skewers.

We also ate sweet potato balls. These were delicious.

I snapped a few other pictures of octopus balls, grasshoppers (yes we all tried one though the kids bet money on making the captain eat one), rainbow cheese sandwiches (did not try this but cheese is very different here.)

One of the students bought cheese fries. The cheese was sweet almost as if it was made from sweetened condensed milk. It had some hot spice in it though.

In the end we went back to the hotel and no surprise that the kids were silk hungry. I guess the market was just an appetiser for them. The mall is a couple blocks walk then across a pedestrian bridge. It is huge. 5 stories with any kind of shop you would need including a grocery store at the bottom. I bought more seaweed snacks as they are more expensive in China.

So we are going to hear about when we will fly out. Flights are now resuming but still delayed. The school is paying our stay at this hotel for a long as we need including the breakfast buffet which is the best that I have ever had hands down.

Grocery shopping

There are many funny things you see in the grocery stores here. Of course to outsiders in the US that is also true. Mostly is the combination of flavours or how the original title is translated.

This was just a stroll down the chip aisle. I actually did buy the seaweed flavour. What I haven’t bought is the bags of dried shrimp mixed with nuts. But I probably will in the future.

Occasionally someone on we chat will share a picture from translator where the English translation is written over top of the Chinese symbols. These are hilarious and end up with everyone sharing from wherever they are. If I can figure out where these are saved I will share them.

Biking around Guangzhou

I have been biking to school and taking a trip on most weekends since I bought my bike. There are bike paths along the river and beside some major roads, but where I bike to school does not always have that. It can be a little dicey but riding with others brings safety in numbers. It is actually tougher to get around the other bikers and pedestrians as it seems that anything goes with them and they don’t follow any rule.

Here are a few images from the bike rides. Exercise classes (usually Qi Gong) and dancing you can see in the parks and under the bridges.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

To get on the bridges you need to sometime take stairs. They have a ramp on part of the stairs where you push your bike up as you walk. Sometimes it is in the middle and others it is on both sides. Here you can see the not very wide ramp along the side. It actually is pretty ingenous, does not take much space, and is efficient. You can see the ramps both on the left and the right.

Since I bought my bike I also had them put on a rack over the rear tire and bought one pannier messenger bag that can clip to the side or be tied down on top which gives me better options than to put everything in a backpack on my back. It was incredibly cheap with both costing a total of $40 USD.

The Plant Market

A few weeks ago I went to the plant market with one of the seasoned teachers. It is easy to find someone who will help you here when you are looking for something. You pass on your information. Since I had never taken long metro rides this was something I also wanted to do. This is a big place and any tips for getting around is great.

On the way to the market we saw a fruit stall that had fresh coconut. They crack open the top so you can drink (I took it home to scrape out the coconut later).

rpt

There is a market for everything here. The plant market is huge and took hours to only look at a small amount of it. I went with three others and we were each looking for something specific. For me, I wanted a few succulents for my apartment but also wanted to grow leafy vegetables. I looked around for some time and found the places I wanted to buy from then set out to get those items at the last minute as they were pretty heavy.

Here are the succulents and planter I bought:

ptr

It seemed that we would not be getting on the metro with everything as it all had to go through an xray before we could enter so we called a DIDI (like Uber here). We manage to fill the trunk and also fit the tree that one person bought in the back seat with us. That person in the front seat bought some of the most beautiful orchids I have seen.

btf

My plants are starting to grow. I am not sure exactly what I planted but have seen these greens at the wet market and eventually will translate the packages (though translations are never exact).

I have a second planter and those are taking a little longer to come up. As a capricorn, we love to dig our hands in dirt!