Okay. I am not fond of camping but I wanted to sleep in the Amazon to see what it is like.
I gathered my sturdy hiking boots, long pants and shirt, bug spray, a 2 L bottle of water, and a good rain jacket. That is really all that is needed. I bought a portable power bank but really did not use much battery as there is no cellular signal or WiFi.
We went by canoe from the Anaconda island where the lodge is located to a location in the state of Amazonas.
Mosquitoes are actually not as prevalent as I thought thanks to the slightly dark colored water here. It looks like coca cola when being poured into a glass and has been described as tea colored.
The coloring is due to the high concentration of organic matter such as tannins and humic acids that are leached from decaying vegetation. These compounds are released when plants decompose in the forests. The waters of the Rio Negro also have a low mineral content,along it more transparent. It is easy to see the dark color.
The trek was 1 km inland from the Rio Negro.
Tying up the hammocks and mosquito nets.
Okay, we each brought a beer …..There is a wood here that is high in oil content and used as a fire starter.Using pieces of wood for a base for grilling. Rice was made in a pot earlier.We learned to make bowls out of leaves. Quite a handy trick. And our guide made little paddles out of wood to use as a hybrid spoon and knife. On the menu was rice and chicken. I was hungry, I ate chicken
After finishing dinner, the rain started and it didn’t stop all night. We went into the hammocks and talked, chilled out and went to sleep.
I woke up on and off through the night and recorded a few sounds. It had been described as being very loud, but so are crickets in rural western PA. We heard birds, insects, and monkeys but since it was raining there was much less activity.
The next morning…. And no it hasn’t stopped raining yet.
Eggs, bread, and coffee for breakfast.A cute little toad….This area will be under water during the rainy season, which starts now. You can see how the roots adapt .Many trees have spikes which are quite sharp.You can see the change in color of the bark part way up. The water will be that deep in this area in just 4 months. This is only the start of the rainy season.Lots of water to walk through to get back to the canoe.Literally a cabin in the woods. Relaxing here…On the way back to Anaconda Island.The cabins at the Anaconda Lodge.
A shower was first on the list. There is no power in the cabins from 6 am to 6 pm and also no Wifi. There is wifi at the lodge itself and is powered by solar power. Not a fancy place to stay but it has what you need. I have to say that the fish here is amazing. And, there is a pool….
Manaus is a smaller sprawling city with very little tall buildings. I love the old world charm. It is the city you come to when you head into the Amazon (that adventure is next).
On Sundays, the street I’m on closes down a little south of the hotel. It is fun to people watch and look around.Catedral Nossa Senhora de ConceicaoFountain near the Catedral.I loved the barbers on the street.The target of my walk. Adolpho Lisboa Municipal Market. The ironwork in the building is fashioned after a famous market in Paris Not sure what I was looking for here but I bought a pair of earrings at the teatro made of Madera (wood). I did find a complementing necklace to go with it here.The port of Manaus. Not a place to walk. It is a military port at this location.I decided to go back to the hotel and sit in the pool. That lasted a short time as it is rainy season right now and every day it rains for about an hour.Ponta negra beach
I dipped my toes in the water. It was really warm but had not planned to swim there. I came to the beach for photos, people watching, and to find something to eat. Many of the restaurants near the hotel are closed on Sunday.
After walking along the beach, I went to a local 4 star hotel but they were closed for dinner until a little later in the evening. There was a particular fish I wanted to try. Instead I went to a food stall as one of the items in the menu was Tacacá. Tacacá is a traditional Brazilian soup from the Amazonas region. It’s made with a broth of jambu leaves (a local herb that causes a tingling sensation in the mouth), dried shrimp, yellow manioc flour, and sometimes tucupi (a broth made from manioc root). It also had shrimp (Camarones) in it. It’s a hot soup and is a favorite type of street food here. I was excited that this vendor took credit cards (many do even if you are only buying a soda). Because I arrived at 2:30 in the morning, I didn’t have a chance to exchange currency to pay in cash). The soup was a little gelatinous in some parts and tasted acidic. But now, I think that has more to do with the numbing effect of the jambu.
I also ordered “Petisco da Tio Socorro” which is a local dish. It’s common in Brazil for eateries to use the term “Tio” (uncle in Portuguese and Spanish) into their names, often followed by a person’s name or nickname. The word “petisco” means an appetizer or snack in Brazilian cuisine. Using these clues, “Petisco da Tio Socorro” is a type of appetizer or snack specific to that particular vendor. No matter, it is fried dough with a thick sauce that reminded me of Indian gravy with shrimp in them. It was very good too.
I walked for a bit afterwards towards the center of Manaus. I have been increasing activity with my ankle throughout the past two days.
I saw the Unba sushi bar on my walk. I was still a little hungry and glad I stopped. They had the fish I wanted to try and even better as it was in a ceviche. Ceviche is “cooked” with an acidic sauce and one of my favorite dishes. The fish is called Arapaima gigas, also known as pirarucu.
Pirarucu is a freshwater fish native to the Amazon Basin. It is one of the largest freshwater fish species in the world and can grow up to 3 meters (which is 10 feet!). It can weigh 180 kg (which is around 400 pounds!). It is similar to cod or halibut and was delicious served with a thick sweetened soy sauce.
From the balcony of the sushi bar I thought I would be able to see the sunset but there were too many clouds that afternoon. Beautiful nonetheless.
The hotel I stayed in is called the Casa perpetua d charm in the centro histórico. Tall ceilings, old architecture, very beautiful….
After some searching through channels, I did find that they were showing the Superbowl! Or is in Portuguese but I can see the scores and the half time show. What they don’t show is all the commercials! I’ll see them on playback on my cable box when I get home.
During school in January, reports came out about curfews and other changes to crack down on notorious drug gangs and problems in the prisons as most were under the control of the inmates. It was mostly due to one of the biggest drug lords having also escaped.
At first, we were not sure what to believe as there were many fake news stories just to create further panic. But we went home, stocked up on food (not like the US where everyone is buying toilet paper) and we prepared to go to online learning. Originally it was for 3 days but ended up being two weeks.
We are still under a curfew of midnight until 5 am which is fine for me. I am hardly out late as it is. Many of the cities near the coast do have a problem with crime and prison control but in Quito not as much to worry about. They have regained control of many prisons and also conducted raids that extended into other countries. The latest is a dual operation in Ecuador and Spain that uncovered illegal activity involving criminal organizations from multiple other countries. Much information had actually not been reported so as to not tip off those criminal organizations.
Regardless, I did not venture out for much of the first week except to get food. After that, I did some walks around the neighborhood and a few other things:
The hardest part was not riding bikes for the first two weekends until they allowed the bike riding route (ciclo paseo) to resume.We have a few people in our apartment building and we met on the roof to enjoy yoga and get fresh air.A walk in the neighborhood Park close to my house We walked through the little village that is part of the park. Very tranquil and a beautiful day.Though I did not take pictures, there was a good police presence in the park where they also use horses.In the park, the native villagers had their llamas out!Afterwards we ate at a little cafe in the neighborhood. Everything is made with plantains. On the left is cups made of plantains and filled with shrimp. On the right is the Bolon Verde with peanuts. So delicious.On a bike ride I saw a person milking their goat and selling the milk fresh on the street. I missed that picture but saw another person not far from there with their goats.Of course a favorite is watching street performers at intersections. This one had enough time to set up a low tightrope and walk while juggling across it.I took another tour in Old Town just to get out. And eventually joined a book club with others from school. Great to get together even for a short time.Lunch with friends including a new one. Loved meeting Kim and talking about common countries and realizing people that we know in common.
Life feels pretty normal except for curfew, but it has changed whether I will need traveling some areas anytime soon.
After relaxing in a thermal spa for an hour, I started traveling to San Jose from La fortuna. The plan was to make a stop at the Bosque Nubosa el Cocora but the rain was heavy at the time. Instead I stopped at this rescue center for wild and domesticated animals in San Jose. These animals cannot be released back to the wild. Sometimes I am not sure about rescue centers but this was very nice and like the rest of Costa Rica everyone is friendly and helpful.
I don’t mind the entrance price for a rescue center as some animals cannot be released because of their injuries.
Many macaws free to roam I love the look on this iguanaPainted wood turtleLora albinaToucanWoodpeckerSlider turtleAnother toucanCaimanWhite hawkBlack hawkCrested caracaraTapirPeccaryTamarinTufted ear marmoset, the smallest primate TortoiseCougarSpider monkey
After lunch at the rescue center ( I had casado again, amazing to see the regional differences), it was a short drive to the hotel. Villa San Ignacio has a pool, not heated, but still swimmable especially in the sun. It is a beautiful place with small hiking trails on the property, traditional decor, and beautiful rooms. It is only 20 minutes from the rental car place and close to the airport.
It is New Year’s Eve and here is to another great year. I originally was going to find a place to go out but not the best idea the day before I leave as I would have to drive a few kilometers. Instead I had a few drinks at the bar and talked to a few new people I met.
There were fireworks staring before midnight and I could see some off them from the balcony outside my room.
New years day was gorgeous. The view from my breakfast table.
I had also intended to drive around San Jose but most places were closed and I enjoyed doing laps in the pool instead of walking around. A relaxing and recovering way to start the new year. Now to return to Quito….
I thoroughly enjoyed the laid back, relaxing life here (still a contender for retirement) and especially driving some off of the fun roads! I still need to go to the Caribbean side next….. Costa Rica, I’ll be back…..pura vida!
The night tour was pretty fun, looking for things that want to hide and even some that are poisonous if disturbed.
Cats eye snake. Not poisonous and waiting for a pretty to cross his path.This is really how small he is. He is at the junction of three Middle Branch with the trunk.This is a tailless whip scorpion, an arachnid and his fourth pair of legs is actually antennae.A tropical crab that monkeys love to find for food. This tree has many dart like spines.Indigenous people would dip the end in the secretion from the poisonous dart frog to poison prey by shooting the darts through bamboo straws.A tiny toad.A scorpion that fluoresces under our flashlights. This Fer DeLance snake is poisonous. He really did not want anything to do with us but was alert in case he needed to protect himself. Most notes from this snake are accidental when someone stepped near him.
As big as my hand!This spider is poisonous and many bites are accidental. It is known as a banana or a type of wandering spider. A smooth helmeted iguana which is a mock chameleon. So tiny.
I loved the night tour. I have been wanting to do it for some time in different places. Of course it is better with a guide as they see things that we can’t. They also know what to look for. Other than a tarantula, nothing was on the path we were walking but often it is the poisonous snake that is there!
This park is near the southern part of Costa Rica and has extraordinary biodiversity and is along the Pacific Ocean. The tour took us to find wildlife and then have some time to spend on the beach.
Howler monkey
3 toed Sloth
Another 3 toed Sloth Howler monkeys sleepingA caiman waiting in the waterDevil spiderBat
The white faced monkeys were pretty photogenic but some were not happy we were there.
Grasshopper. This is a juvenile and will be twice this size when full grown.A very small chameleon.Tropical land crab3 toed sloth
After spending a good part of Christmas morning in the airport (Ryan’s flight left 4 hours before mine) and a flight to Costa Rica and drive from San Jose to Quepos, I could relax! The drive was beautiful in Costa Rica.
I am staying in Quepos for a few days to hike Manuel Antonio to find sloths and other wildlife. For the first day, the park is closed so I walked around Quepos and planned other tours for my visit.
Snorkeling
I booked a snorkeling tour that started just before lunchtime. It was decent snorkeling in the first spot but the great barrier reef and summer other places I have been had more fish. Of course it was low tide which could make a difference.
Ryan and I traveled to Secret Garden in Cotopaxi. It was easy as they transferred you from the Secret Garden in Quito to the one near the volcano. It is an active volcano but lessening in activity over the last year.
Secret Garden
Secret Garden is an amazing hostal. We started in the hobbit house which was for a single or family. The food was amazing and there is so much to eat and the views were incredible.
The hobbit house we stayed at.They have llamas that love bananas. Since they are an everyday snack to take at will, there are many skins saved here for the llamas that we are encouraged to feed. This one comes running.Cotopaxi
Cotopaxi
Cotopaxi is in the Andes Mountains of Ecuador and is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is 5,897 meters (19,347 feet) high, and its almost perfect cone shape at the summit always has snow. The volcano is part of the Cotopaxi National Park. From the hostal, you can see it and two other volcanoes.
Though it is still active, climbing can occur up to the glacier but not to the summit.
This is Ruminahui which is a dormant and heavily eroded volcano. Climbing it requires rock climbing.Iliniza north and south volcanoes. These twin mountains are literally 1 km from each other.
Pasachoa is another notable peak near the hostal but with my knee still not at 100%, it was not worth the risk. Ryan went on that hike though.
The paramo
A paramo is a unique high-altitude ecosystem found in the Andes Mountains, and is found between 3,000 and 4,500 meters (9,800 to 14,800 feet) in elevation. It is alpine tundra. The vegetation is grasses and shrubs that are adapted to the harsh environmental conditions. Temperatures can be cold and the weather changes drastically. The UV radiation here is high. Paramos play a crucial role in regulating water. Paramos support diverse wildlife, including unique bird species and mammals adapted to the challenging mountain environment. The horses and llamas here are wild.
I took a horse back riding tour across the paramo. It was amazing and very beautiful.
We stopped to have a snack midway through the hike.
Cotopaxi glacier
The glacier is at an altitude of 5100 m or 16732 ft. It was tough in breathing but not very difficult. The volcanic ash made for summer find descending back down.
Ryan rented a bike to ride down from part of the volcano.
Pichincha
Earlier in the week we went to Pichincha which is not far from my house and the city. It is an active volcano but the part that you can climb is not active. We did not climb the whole route but had impressive views of the city.
I’ve been to mindo once but did not do the bird watching tours. Since Ryan was visiting I thought an overnight trip to mindo would let him see a different view of Ecuador. It is literally over the mountain that we were on the day before but takes a few hours to get there. Lower in elevation, it is warmer and more sub tropical. This was also the first time I drove a car in Ecuador. It was a beautiful drive reminding me of western pa country roads but a lot steeper hills.
Food
I have been so excited to share some great Ecuadorian foods with my son.
Delicious empanadas.Hummingbird watching while we ate.Patacones. Fried plantains with cheese.
Bird watching
I have a list of the birds that I saw but have yet to match the names to the pictures. These are just some of the pictures.
Can you see the green toucan? He camouflages well This fern moves when touched.
Interesting beetle.Mindo is not jungle but called the cloud forest. The release of water vapor from the leaves of trees condenses into clouds along the tree line.Breakfast in the country.The 88 butterfly. I know, it looks like 89.
Yellow throated toucan
The central American Agouti. A small mammal.
Coffee and chocolate tour
Lights on the park at night.
The birds we saw:
Mindo–Vía a las cascadas (Waterfall trail) dic 20, 2023 6:07 a. m. Con Desplazamiento 10.81 km 220 minutos ¿Reportaste todas las especies? No Comentarios:
On Sundays, the major street Rio de Amazonas closes one side fire bikes and runners. Or is a great way to get from north to south without having to worry about a lot of traffic. It is closed for about 6 hours. I loved riding towards the historical center as it is so beautiful. Here there are no descriptions, but just pictures.
