Bali-day

After touring Singapore and Manila, it was a welcome few days off staying in a remote resort without an agenda. Especially perfect for a holiday: my Christmas Eve birthday and Christmas day.

The flight there was uneventful until we landed at 11pm. For some reason, there were lots shuttle buses available for the planes landing/taking off and we had to wait 2 hours to deplane. Another hour in immigration and another hour traveling to the resort in Klungkung put us there at 3 am. I felt sorry for the driver we hired who had to wait at the airport and the resort employee who also waited.

Bali is the western most island in the Lesser Sunda islands, part of the Indonesia archipelago (there are 130 islands here). The majority of people are Hindu and no matter where we were greeted in their language and in English. So friendly and always a smile on their face. This is our first stop and will go to three other places on the island before heading to Komodo Island and then Jakarta.

But we arrived and the place was beautiful. The secret spot resort is right on the beach and peaceful. Not much around it which is amazing. Anything you need they can get for you when they go to the market. This was great as I did not have the adapter plug for this country.

The bathroom is outside in a courtyard. The tub is full size and I can lay down in it.

After a few hours sleep I needed coffee and something to eat. They have a free breakfast and a choice of 3 different menu: Indonesian (fried noodles or rice), pancake, or continental. Looking at their menu for the other meals, they have an amazing variety and cook everything from scratch.

Black sand beach.
We went for a walk near the edge of the water and was surprised at bring pulled in when a wave came much further than we expected. Despite our phones being submerged, they survived. Bali is known for surfing and now we know the strength of the waves.
We noticed a memorial service near the water before ashes were scattered.
This dog liked to slide down the dune.
Before I left the Philippines I purchased this coconut liquor to bring as there are not many options here. Perfect for my birthday paired with fresh fruit juice.
Our agent who arranged our driver from earlier in the night came by as we needed to arrange transport to Nusa penida island, our next stop. He also created a tour of Ubud for us. We toasted my birthday and his which is on the 25th.
Coconuts.

There are only 6 huts at the resort and my friends and I occupied 4 of them. Perfect to exist without masks. Such freedom! Our only excursion was to walk around the tiny village.

Winds and rain came up suddenly.
A local school.
This little guy acted like a tough watch dog.
The owner decorated with lights and a tree. Everyone on staff wore a Santa hat.
For my birthday dinner they made Gado Gado which was delicious. A peanut sauce with tempeh and tofu.
My friends had the owner found a cake for me with a candle. So thoughtful and yes some singing.

This is the rainy season and it did rain off and on  the two days. I did manage to swim a few times and lounge around outside under covered lounge areas. Perfect for relaxation.

Even in the rain this place is beautiful. The sound of the waves is perfect to just relax and read a book.
Balinese fish called Mujair nyat nyat

Mujair nyat nyat is one of the traditional food in Bali. It is a tilapia fish that is fried or baked with Balinese herbs and spices such as ginger, galangal, kencur, black pepper, white pepper, nutmeg, tabia bun, candlenut, jangu, bangle, and also turmeric on top of the fish. It is rich in flavor and just a little spicy. You can easily taste spicy and sour from the herbs with the savory flavor of the fish.

Dessert of black rice pudding. This is made with coconut milk and is delicious.
The lizards are tokay geckos. They provided amusement as we watched them hunt insects.

I would come back here again. The people are wonderful. They are amazing cooks and the menu has traditional Balinese food to western food.

Singapore

This is my second trip to Singapore, the first when COVID had first hit the world and I had made the choice to go back to China rather than the US. I revisited some places I had already been as I was traveling with someone who had never been here but also did more street wandering.

I love Singapore. It is not just a green city with the number of gardens but also with their electric vehicles. There are large buildings but it is very open. There is a lot of history here.

I stayed in Little India which is one historic area here. Off of Serangoon Road, it has colorful buildings and shops with amazing restaurants. The street art is fabulous. As we walked to various places we also found different routes to find new places.

Of course the most iconic places are the esplanade and the marina sands/gardens but the bay area. We visited during the day and at night.

The esplanade boasts the Merlion statue of a mythical creature.

Across the bay is the famous marina sands hotel.

On the way are many historic buildings.

These buildings recreate Durian, the smelly fruit you either love but many hate.

Gardens by the Bay are giant structures that have plants growing up them. They are iconic in the skyline and a beautiful park along the way across from the esplanade and under the shadow of the Marina Sands.

From the gardens you can walk through the center of the Marina Sands on an elevated walkway.

On our last night we bought tickets for winter wonderland festival at the gardens. Music, lights, food, but a lot of people….. Add still a pandemic. It is tough coming from China to freedom. Actually a little scary for us.

We also visited another park with different views of places we had been. I loved the food but most importantly the ability to walk around in a beautiful environment!

Decisions…

I thought during last school year that I would finish one more year here in China. I had applied to four jobs before that summer but did not get any interviews. Given the start of COVID infections around the world, I thought it was also better to stay. The bonus the school gave did not hurt either.

So this year I actually gave up teaching biology and taught the senior environmental class instead. As the IB classes are two years long, starting a new class as juniors would mean I would leave the biology students in between their two years. I wanted to avoid that disruption. It was also an opportunity to have another colleague experience teaching International Baccalaureate.

I used the same site I did last time: Search Associates. They vet the applicants and the schools and it is much easier to shop around and compare. Many of the countries have age limits for their visas and that eliminated many. I was primarily looking for Africa and Ecuador. Seemd very narrow, but this may be my last school and there are a couple places I want to live and learn the culture. Many African countries I was already too old for. I did apply to a dozen other places in South America and Asia, but international teaching is odd in that they are looking for something specific in the candidate: part of a teaching couple, weird combinations of certifications, or looking for certain diversity or age.

I actually had interviews each with Lusaka, Zambia and Quito, Ecuador. I always wanted to live in Africa. It is a good school, more laid back than China, but the tax rate is high and more difficult to move around and go places. Flights in and out are in and out of many small airports and could take two days. They also did not have health insurance when I go back to the US. The idea of being along the Serengeti was exciting. Security and corruption is an issue but one of the better African countries to be in. I had two interviews and they wanted to offer me the job. Unfortunately, the girl leaving was not sure and the board kept extendimg the final decision they had to make.

In the meantime, I started interviewing with Ecuador. The school is not as great as Lusaka. It will be a little laid back as well. There is corruption and security issues as well but Quito has less issues than neighboring countries. I was offered a contract. I decided to accept it as there was no guarantee the Lusaka position would actually be available (it was in the end). I was put in contact with a present teacher who answered many of my questions and concerns. One concern I had were reviews of student behavior but that really depended upon how you approach a class. The thought of being in Ecuador and seeing much of the continent was exciting. I would also be closer to home and finding a retirement property in the next few years would be easier. I would be able to save approximately the same amount of money in both places though the savings is much less than in Asia. I also think Ecuador offers more for my adventurous side.

Could I have waited and found another job? Possibly. But there are many applicants for jobs right now and my age does not help me there. I also found a school possibly near a place I wanted to live. I kept my online account open just to watch what happens. Of the other dozen applications I had sent, I received no reply. I did get messages from Kuwait and Ningbo China to apply at their school, but was not interested.

Signing a contract takes the pressure off. When the school is on the other side of the world, it means late night interviews. Exhausting. And then waiting to hear back…. But after I signed I still woke up in the middle of the night wondering if I made the right decision. Buyers remorse exists here too and mostly fueled by the daunting task of starting over somewhere else. Every major life decision can lead to that. But everything always works out. It is challenging to uproot yourself and start over in foreign places. New country with its rules, new schools with its procedures, and IB Biology has new curriculum worldwide next year and not even sure the extent of those changes yet.

In the end I liked both of the directors that interviewed me and was excited about both the schools. It will be very different from China and less pay, but also a different pace of work.

And then there is China….. It is becoming difficult to even go from one place to another. They have spent so much energy on testing, identifying contacts, and quarantine that they are not even pushing vaccinations and boosters. They put themselves in a corner and now cannot let the virus spread without over running the hospitals. So now we have been online for 7 weeks. And with the final relaxing of all restrictions has created chaos. I still don’t trust China. Local areas can have their own rules that is more extreme than the national policy. We will see.

I had wanted to write this post earlier but teaching online, testing daily, and other facets of life took over. Here is to new experiences!

Shunde and Panyu

For a more relaxing holiday (and to save money as travel this holiday is expensive), I visited friends, Amber and Michael, in Shunde. Our holidays don’t always coincide and I have not seen them in months. We met at brunch and then I traveled to their place in Shunde.

We watched movies, walked around a local village and found great food to eat.

Okay, these are rats. We didn’t eat them but this is some of the original Cantonese food in the area.

I then went to panyu to participate in a bike tour. We started at the Shawan ancient village and visited a local artisan who carves wood.

The side of the house has oysters embedded in the concrete to help with cooling and to deter insects.

From there, we ride on Phoenix bikes reminiscent of old Chinese bikes (but safer). We traveled to Baomo gardens, approximately 16 km.

Another short ride and we ended at an old sugar processing plant that now has art installations and some artists in residence.

A great mini vacation with friends and fresh air visiting ancient towns.

Oh Macau, so close and yet so far….

As one of my friends, Heidi, is leaving China soon, I wanted to go to Macau with her and Elaine and Donnie for the weekend. They since opened that border for foreigners as it had already been opened for mainland Chinese. As a special autonomous region like Hong Kong, it is leaving the country.

Despite what would be a rushed visit, I was excited and left for the metro straight from school to get to the high speed rail station. Foreigners are again asked to show more than just their green code since a Chinese man went to Germany, had sex with a man, and brought back the first case of monkeypox. Of course, before those specifics were reported the head of the CDC gave this warning:

The last four are sound advice. But the first…
From a doctor…

They eventually walked back that first statement but the damage had been done and has brought some more anti-foreign sentiment. A person on the metro who could not just stand and had to sit next to me like this:

Back to the Macau story. I was able to leave school early so Heidi and I decided to move up the train booking but we did not notice that lineup had already happened and they would not let us through (totally our fault). Because of this, we took the next train. No problem except they wanted our passport information 20 minutes after we left the station which I thought was odd and then as the train slowed they locked the doors in the front and back of our car. They announced that the code of a person in our car of the train had turned to red in transit. Heidi is from Canada and speaks Cantonese. We did find someone who spoke Mandarin and Cantonese and a couple that could speak English. That helped but the information kept changing often.

He was possibly a close contact of someone who did test positive. Maybe…. We were herded to a gated area on the street where we were tested (2 nasal/1 rapid) and our passports/ID were taken. People who lived in Zhuhai were allowed to go home but isolate and get tested. The rest of us were to be sent to a hotel. When we asked questions, we were given a variety of answers but mostly a day in a hotel. The man’s test came back negative as we waited and we were told we would have to pay for the required stay now. People were upset. When I heard that noise I was just hoping the man did not test positive. No one was happy.

This is actually inside the gated area.

But it gets better. It’s not a hotel. It is a quarantine facility with cameras and sparse interior. We had to pay 1500 rmb ($210) deposit which is roughly a 6 day quarantine. That irked me along with the smell and pond of bleach sprayed everywhere on the floor. We were told the money was a deposit. We started calling it the “Ritz”.

For the record, not as bad as Shanghai. The central room here is all the space I had in Shanghai for 2 weeks. At least there are two bedrooms and I could take the mattresses (only a couple centimeters thick for each one) and put them together. With the two comforters on top as an added mattress, it made for a more comfortable bed. And there is a balcony…

Those are the two mattresses.

Food was meager (and we had to pay) but you were allowed to order food from outside. But setting up any Chinese app for delivery is difficult. I have resisted so far as I feel I should cook my own food and walk to eat out. Healthier that way. I contacted admin and HR about my predicament and they had an IT guy walk me through. HR had to buy me my first meal as my app wasn’t set up in time to make the delivery window. I do know enough words to type into the Chinese keyboard to search what I want. Will I use it back in Guangzhou? Probably not. But I was pretty happy to know how to type in salad (shala) and eggs and tomatoes (jidan he xihongshi). Oh… And coffee (kafei) but had to look up the translation of coffee powder.

I also contacted the consulate, just in case. I only have so much asthma medicine with me and worried about the lack of communication with us and staff here. My HR is actually wonderful at calling to find information for me.

We were told at one point just one day… Then two days… And at the end, two tests in three days. We were tested Friday night, and each of the next 3 days.

Usually I pack extra things just in case this happens but let my guard down, so I did not have coffee or some other things with me. Lesson learned….. But I am adaptable and so grateful to be able to order in. A few people on the train did not have anything with them. I gave one person a summer dress to wear and others loaned their clothes too. I am glad I had my computer to do some work and read.

We were released Monday afternoon. They refunded some of the money and then just let you find your own way out of the complex.

I had to take a personal day for missing a day of school. I was able to get my Macau hotel refunded. I decided to take two more days off as well. I have already missed my scheduled China trip with the 11th grade and will join a 2 day trip at the end of the week with the grade 12′ s. I also plan to call the government hotline as people are not to pay when they were found in this situation.

Endless summer

I always started school when it still felt like summer but soon morning would be cooler and the days shortened. This year, my 35th year, we started a bit earlier and it was still summer hot. As the humidity doesn’t start to break until October, it feels like an endless summer just with diminishing daylight.

I didn’t travel much this summer, spending time eating out with friends….

Learning to play mahjong….. There are three kings of tiles. The rules are to get 3 of a kind or 3 consecutive. You can only pick up from the discard pile if you can play it right away. Otherwise the standard rules are similar to other card games. It is fun to play the rules fast and listen to them click…. And I won the game!

Each row is a set of tiles that are related.
I won. Play continues until one is left. You get chips depending upon when you go out.
Won again…
… And again

DragonBoat on the weekend… Great arm and cute exercise and brutal two days in a row…

Stand up paddle boarding at a new place with friends on a 3 day weekend… Beautiful little village….

And of course running around the river or swimming in the rooftop pool with a view of the river…..

October will bring warm days but less humidity. Always something to look forward to. It still seems like an endless summer as the trees do not lose their leaves here and flowers bloom all year long…

Mingshi Village, Guangxi

I didn’t plan many trips this summer. I and excited for this one as the hotel is amazing and I have not been in the southern part of this province. To get to Guangxi, we took a high speed train and then transferred to a bus. A COVID test was required but many of the places when we arrived did not know what to do with our passports so just let us through. We took a COVID test at the final train station just in case it was needed. So Guangdong is the province I live in and ends in dong, which means east. I am visiting guangxi, which ends in xi which means west. Guang means vast. Guangxi is the province just west of where I live. We stopped for lunch at a rest stop.

Near the village there was a border checkpoint. As we are close to Vietnam they take it seriously due to trafficking. It takes a long time for them to input the information and take pictures of everything. Of course, Chinese ID holders they just take a picture without uploading anything. Crazy, since in the news Chinese men have been arrested for coming back into China from Vietnam after illegal activity.

The hotel in the village is beautiful. Large rooms with a huge bathtub and full windows on two sides of the room. We faced the mountains and the fields for a beautiful view from the window and balcony.

Of course we went to the rooftop pool first.

The villagers were sowing the rice seeds when we arrived. The next morning I went for a run to look around the village.

We also rode bikes the last day. it was a beautiful 15km ride through the villages and fields. Gorgeous area. I would definitely come here again.

Cabbage stir fry

This is a classic recipe you will love and can make with a variety of mushrooms. Here I show with two different mushrooms.

Trim the bottom of the cabbage by cutting off the bottom part of the white stems. Also trim the bottom of the mushrooms.

Heat up 1 TBS oil in a skillet or wok. Fry 3 cloves of garlic until light brown. Add about 3 to 4 cups of Napa cabbage and 4 – 8 ounces of mushroom and stir fry for about a minute. It may be a few minutes if you are using a skillet. Add 1 tsp of oyster sauce and combine well. You can add some water if needed at this point. You want the cabbage to have crunch, so don’t overcook the cabbage.

Here is actually the favorite mushroom I use in the dish!

This is really a very simple and delicious dish!

Dongchong beach weekend

For the three day dragon boat weekend I headed to the beach! Normally I would be paddling a DragonBoat but it has been cancelled again …

We hired a car to go what should have been a 3.5 hour trip, but 6.5 hours later we finally arrived. At least we had snacks and my friend’s dog to keep us company! I have not been able to travel with Michael and Amber for over a year. They were great buddies for travel in 2020. My friend Fran also joined us.

Some of the traffic snarls were accidents but others were people stopping to give their child a bathroom break. I think moving over to the shoulder is more appropriate or at least placing the child between you and the car….

Finally we arrived and went to check out the beach. A negative 48 hour COVID test was required to enter the village. No one was allowed to enter otherwise.

Our dinner included scallops, oysters, clams, and mussels.

The hotel allowed dogs and was pretty decent for a Chinese hotel. Some things have me scratch my head….

The village temple

The next morning I went for a run. The village was small but beautiful to look at parts of the village. This village charges to enter the beach and the prices of food are more expensive, but we are far from a city and the village takes great care with their spaces to maintain a clean and nice beach.

We noticed that the old village was being destroyed. I had heard that sewage used to be dumped into the sea and the government put a stop to it some time ago. China is looking to expand tourism and provide money for updating the villages.

On the beach we ate the hummus and veggies we brought with us and spent the day enjoying the sea air.

To keep sun off you, go into the water with an umbrella!

Fish for dinner!

On the last day, we could not go back to the beach as our COVID test was after 72 hours. Never mind the fact that we did not leave the village at all….

Crazy rules here in China.

Chinese smashed cucumbers

These cucumbers are really amazing and there are a few ways to make them.

The ingredients

This recipe vinaigrette uses soy sauce/vinegar instead. Use the cucumbers that you like but ideally the seeds should be small. There are many options here to change based on your taste. It is my favorite way to eat cucumbers in China.

  • 1 or 2 cucumbers
  • 2-3 garlic cloves
  • Pinch of sugar to taste
  • Salt to taste
  • 1 Tbs. Sesame oil
  • 1 Tbs  soy sauce (this is optional as it makes the salad darker. A light soy sauce would be better here)
  • 1 tsp black vinegar (this is optional but this vinegar has a nice flavor though it makes the dish even darker. You can eliminate or use other vinegar that you like such as apple cider vinegar)
  • 1 tsp or more chili oil to taste (this can also be optional or you can use chili flakes here instead which is what I usually prefer)

Wash the cucumber. If skins are tough, they can be peeled. Cut in half lengthwise and put the cut side down. Cut into chunks.

Using the side of the blade of a knife, smash the cucumber pieces. This will smash much of the seeds out and split the pieces even further. Remove the loose seeds.

Add the rest of the ingredients in a bowl to mix. Pour over the cucumbers and serve as a dude dish or pair with rice. This looks not as beautiful as I have made in the past. I used a darker soy sauce and also the chili oil. The result is a darker sauce. I have made it before without the dark vinegar and using chili flakes and it is good as well.