Established in 1131 in the Ming and Song dynasties, the village is charming and well preserved. What makes Hongcun Village so unique is that the village was designed by a Feng Shui master to resemble a cow. The two old trees at the entrance to the village represent the horns, the four stone bridges the legs, the ponds the stomach, etc. This is the entrance we took to the village and the two trees are on each side of the photograph.
After checking into this cute hotel, I went off to find a place to run. I went along the river to head up out of the town. I passed through a couple of farming villages.
The countryside during the run was beautiful and uneventful except for a couple of dogs. The villagers admonished them when they wouldn’t leave me run through.
This house looks like it could be from the US. Not what I expected to find in the rural area.
After the run I went out exploring with a few of the others on the tour. We found the two trees that made the horns of the cow (ox). One of the trees was used when there was a marriage. The bride is carried around the base of the tree.
The other tree, a very large gingko, is used similarly but when someone passes away.
While walking we noticed this post office sells drinks and cocktails. We went in for a look. They sold some unique stamps and novelties as well as drawings from the many students who come here to practice drawing the village and the mountains.
While we were there a couple chose a post card and sat down to compose it before mailing.
This is one of the bridges that is the legs of the cow and the lake that is central to the village.
Hongcun is unique among all Chinese villages for its very sophisticated water system. Its two large ponds are connected to a series of flowing streams which pass by every house, providing water for washing, cooking, and bathing.
Sights from around the village.
I love the signs I see here in China.
Hongcun at night was beautiful.
There was a charming old gentleman selling small goods. He was in any area not many people were at. I bought a bowl and cup made from bamboo.
I woke up early to get in another run and view more areas while there were less people.
A pile of bamboo I bought a fried dough with a sesame seed filling inside. It was quite tasty.
Outside the village I ran in a different direction than the day before.
This road is a heritage road between multiple UNESCO heritage sites.
We were optimistic that the servings day would be better weather and it was! The temperature started out at the high point of the day before and it was sunny. It started out cold at 10 C but did get to 18 C by mid day. We took the cable car up and hiked around the top going in a different direction than the day before.
The views were breathtaking. The Huangshan pine has a distinctive shape and it and the landscape has brought artists here for centuries. This is the birthplace of tourism in China.
We actually entered the park on the other side the day before and had reached that peak. So many an artist sketching the mountain. Under one of the Stone steps were wildflowers.
This next formation is called golden brush with a flower on top. It was covered in clouds yesterday.
Usually I can’t see the reason why certain formations are given their name but I could see this one : monkey Gazing over a sea of clouds.
Views on the way back down the mountain.
The original cable car we used to ascend.
The only way to bring material up and down is through workers carrying loads. Each man was carrying a minimum of 50 kg on their back. Each little store that sold food and drink would have supplies arrive that way. We saw vegetables, drinks in bottles, 25 kg bags of rice…. They even bring up building materials like trusses and bags of cement. And yes, there are people to carry you up or down stairs going around the ridges.
Near the bottom we went diem a small slope to the little river and ate our lunch there.
At the bottom where the alpine forest is now bamboo and deciduous forest.
Plans for the weekend were originally just a massage and some runs. Jack had some business to do but at the last minute he changed his plans. I have been working on being more spontaneous so when he suggested to travel to Huizhou to visit a hot spring I said “sure!”
I booked a room at the Intercontinental hotel using hotels.com. Instead of a single room and using the public hot spring, I used my free room credit towards a room with its own hot spring. Then we could use whenever we wanted.
We left early in the morning and when we arrived we were happy to find it upgraded and the reservation changed to a villa. Since the pandemic, travel was slow to resume and especially to bring expats back. A good business move to bring business with a good review. Here is a video of the villa at the Intercontinental.
The villa in pictures. The kitchen is not great but there is room service and a couple of restaurants on the resort and a little town nearby.
The tub is amazing
Walking
This is a natural hot spring from the ground and people bring eggs to cook where it comes here to the surface.
After walking around and a dip in the hot spring, we chose to go to the village to eat. Eggplant, green beans, and bitter melon as one dish with eggs and tofu skins for another. Not bad but not exceptional. We did eat western food for lunch in the hotel earlier.
Running the next morning we went around the large golf course at the resort.
Of course we spent more hours after the buffet breakfast in the hot spring. The buffet was better than average and it was cool after a rainy day yesterday. As we were refilling the hot spring we noticed the centipede. He would have no where to go as the water is rising so I scooped him up between two cups and set him loose in the bushes.
Before we left I also toured a 3 bedroom villa. It would be great for a bunch of people to come here. Three separate bedroom areas and lots of room. The kitchen is nicer too. Hmmmm… When touring I rescued a pair of frogs too.
Warning. A bit of rambling about the last two weeks leading up to Chinese new Year!
This year for Chinese New Year we were advised not to go anywhere. We can’t leave China and there are a few imported cases and always a concern that all it takes is one to start another outbreak (though China’s policy about testing and quarantining to be sure means that areas are downgraded quickly in 3 to 4 weeks.) I am glad I went to Harbin at Christmas as it was shut down due to a few cases.
Last Chinese New Year I went to New Zealand and did not come back for 9 weeks. It was epic in terms of seeing sights but a bit nerve wracking not being sure where the world is headed. Fast forward to this year and I am glad to have been able to travel China last year, but not going anywhere right now was a bit unsettling. I looked at it as a time to spend with friends and relax a bit (except for chiropractor appointments).
Chinese New Year is hallmarked with families deep cleaning their houses and removing excess. This allows for the old to leave and allow the new in. I used some of the time to clean and organize my belongings as well. The cats did not like their deep clean, but that was necessary too! I came across a 2020 ornament I was given on the 1st of last year when I entered Greece. I thought maybe it should be destroyed given the year that we had, but would make a good ornament to remember that year.
This year is the year of the OX: The Ox is the second of all zodiac animals. According to one myth, the Jade Emperor said the order would be decided by the order in which they arrived to his party. The Ox was about to be the first to arrive, but Rat tricked Ox into giving him a ride. Then, just as they arrived, Rat jumped down and landed ahead of Ox. Thus, Ox became the second animal. (The pig is the last animal as it had to stop and eat along the way!) Ox are know to be hardworking and honest.
In the weeks before Chinese New Year, many decorations could be seen going up around the city.
Okay, not a decoration, but where else do you see a chicken in a box sitting at a bus stop? I am certain it was someones dinner that night!
Chinese lanterns in the tree near the train station.
Over Chinese New Year, my Google phone stopped working correctly. That made it impossible to do anything as getting rides, ordering food, paying for groceries use the phone. Compounded to that is the code used to track whether you have been to a place with covid cases. Without the phone it is inaccessible. During Chinese New Year, many places close as it is like our Christmas to new Years. Jack was able to take me to a Xiaomi store to get a Mi 10. It has taken awhile to get my apps loaded and things working (let alone recovering everything from my old phone (without a Google phone and all the great apps and backups that would be impossible).
In the mall, a Tim Horton’s opened up, so we stopped for some coffee.
Over Chinese New Year was Valentine’s Day. Jack gave me some Moutai, which is a kind of baijiu (a grain alcohol that is pretty strong). Each type os different and Moutai is aged longer and the most expensive that you can buy here.
I also was able to get together with my friend Lily and her son Edward. (and Killian). I haven’t seen her in 6 months as our schedule always conflicted. It was great to meet for Dim Sum and share some banana bread I made for a party a few days before.
This is a new statue from a famous sculptor in Guangzhou of robust ladies in a variety of athletic pursuits. It shows beauty in everyday life and freedom and enchantment in their figures. It flies in the face of portrayal of chubby women and that is the purpose.
A sculpture of an ox.
At the start of Chinese New Year, I went to Haizhu park to meet people for some live music. It was part of a cultural event where they carved olive pits, learned other crafts, then stayed overnight in a hostel that focused on books and coming together. i did not get to participate in the other events due to an appointment and work the next day. It was good to visit this amazing place and hear music with friends. The rooms are tucked in among the books.
The decorations in Haizhu park where beautiful. I had been there during the day, but not at night.
I also was able to visit the pig cafe. A cafe full of potbelly pigs! What heaven. Instead of buying a drink and food for me to enter, your purchase food for the pigs. Each bowl of food after is much cheaper and it was fun to feed all the piggies!
At school we usually have a lion dance and other festivities, but many of these have been cancelled to stop large public gatherings. Our Chinese department worked with students to put on a fascinating show for the school. All students wore masks during the assembly and it was great to see the singing and dancing. The students who performed the fan dance were wonderful as well as those who were acting out scenes from Mulan.
At the end of the last day before vacation, our school held a get together on the rooftop of the new building. Wine, beer, snacks, subs, smores, and karaoke made for a very fun night! I work at an unbelievable and supportive school!
Harbin is the largest city in China that is the closest to Siberia.
The last day on Harbin! I’m actually excited to get back to Guangzhou and warmer temperatures. It is pretty here but the temperatures range from -15 C to – 20 C. At that temperature the air is very dry. Using lip balm and moisturizing often is a must. You also need several layers under a really good coat and insulating snowpants and boots.
We packed everything and put our luggage on the bus. We headed to the riverfront and walked to the flood control monument which intersects the riverfront and the road to the central market.
We first walked down the central market street to west 12th to see St. Sophia’s church. The architecture here is but Chinese but like any eastern european country.
St. Sophia’s is a Russian Orthodox church which is beautiful. Unfortunately they were renovating the inside so we could not enter.
From there we went in and out of shops in order to warm up a bit. Taking gloves off to take a picture left fingers numb!
Musicians took turns playing music or singing from this balcony. It was beautiful. This guy played beautiful old music on the saxophone.
One of the things people do here is buy ice cream to eat on the street. It is just ordinary ice cream, but something people do. It actually didn’t make me any colder.
We went in and out shops mostly to look for caviar. There was none to be found. I think it is banned due to covid-19. The virus had been found on fish products earlier in the year. I was disappointed in that.
I did find this bread flavored soda. I did try it. It tastes like that yummy taste you have in your mouth after you eat really good bread. It is a lingering bread taste and actually quite tasty. It is a favorite in Russia.
We found a Russian restaurant that had good food though I did not find the potato latkes I was looking for. I had a beetroot salad and potato mushroom soup.
Next we took the cable car across the river. The number of things you can do on this completely frozen river is amazing. Skating, sledding, pulled by dog teams, and other fun activities. If you love winter and outdoor activities, you will not be bored! The spaces they have created here is amazing. The ice is 1 meter thick.
A walk along the river back to the bus to look at smaller snow sculptures.
We also saw construction of the sculptures in this temperature. It was amazing.
A street food market for stinky tofu. It is just fermented tofu. Yummy but had to eat fast before it became cold.
It was cold. We started the tour at -20C and finished at -16C. There are a few coffee shops around to get out of the cold. Of course if you keep moving and don’t take your hands out of gloves to take pictures it is easier.
These sculptures are made by making artificial snow as that snow is wetter and sticker than the snows that falls on Harbin. They place the snow in big wooden boxes to pack then use the block to make these incredible sculptures that are the largest in the world. All of this is made from packed snow.
Topiary dragon.It started out at -20C and when the sun was shining warned up a bit.You could ride this vehicle and soon around on the river ice.I loved the dragon.Close up of the dragon head.This one is still under construction and looks like a little mushroom house village.
Siberian Tiger Park
The siberian tiger park was pretty cool. People move through the various paddocks in caged vehicles. Some tigers are in cages if they are not acclimated to weather, weak, pregnant, or young. They can get enough nutrition that way. There are over 1300 tigers and the park is very large.
You can pay to feed them by holding meat through the bars or even feed them a live chicken which is dropped through a chute.
Some of the buses also will be used to feed the tigers. You can always tell which bus.
They are such beautiful animals.
Volga Manor
This was a Russian village created by a wealthy entrepreneur in the turn of the century. It prospered until the cultural revolution when it was destroyed. Since then it has been rebuilt on the actual style of the original buildings.
We took a bus to the castle at the end where you took a freight lift to the 5th floor. There you could lay on an inner tube and hold on to each others legs to sled ride down this impressive ice chute. It was so fun we did it twice.
We looked at the Russian church.
There were many other buildings that were not open.
Of course there was a vodka chateau. We learned about vodka.
Sampling the vodka was fun. It was poured in ice cups. I sampled an amber colored vodka that had a definite spicy kick at the end. I also tried a dark colored vodka that had a really full flavor. You could buy your favorite vodka in the gift shop. I purchased the two I tried!
Walking back to the bus was beautiful to see the lit houses.
Afterwards some pedestrian street shopping and food at a Japanese restaurant. On the way back to the hotel we saw this sign which is so very covid-19. It is a little blurry as the bus started moving.
It is easy to let multiple weeks go by without writing everything down. This year which is the longest year ever. Covid-19 had made this the most ridiculous year ever. No big travel trips this month but many little outings as school returns even more to normal and all students are on campus. We are almost back to the normal schedule. This has less to do with the virus itself but with finally having most of our teachers back in China. I’m also taking a leadership class on Saturday mornings (virtually …)
One of my really good friends here is Elaine from Canada. She and I live close to each other and we go out to eat every Monday. Sometimes Killian, my other good friend goes with us too. She works in an English language school so she works nights and weekends. Monday is our one day to catch up.
This portobello burger is amazing and the little restaurant is so retro.
I am still running to get ready for some races. My favorite place to run is along the river.
I also attended the AmCham ball. It is the American chamber of commerce. My school is a member and has a number of tickets. It was a great night with my colleagues. The food was amazing and the Garden Hotel never disappoints with atmosphere and food.
We also found a Poutine restaurant. It has original Poutine and also different nationality themes. Delicious!
Christmas displays at Parc Central in Tianhe!
I pulled out a Christmas tree I was given to decorate. It may become a cat climbing tower!
I am grateful to have a variety of friends from different activities and tours I have been in since arriving in China. They all have found incredible places to eat.
I am eating out more and more and enjoying the amazing delicious food in this city (it is really renowned for is cuisine and variety).
I started last weekend in a Friday afternoon at a golf driving range. I didn’t take pictures but I had such a great time whacking at a ball and talking with coworkers I don’t see everyday over snacks and drinks.
The next morning I juggled a long run with a leadership course in assessment. Of course there was homework, but afterwards I met my friend Morgana and co-worker Dirk for British day. If course there were fish and chips and pints of beer.
Our friend from India, Mahesh.
At night there were long established plans to go to a 2 star Michelin restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental hotel. The restaurant is called Jiang by Chef Fei. It is an amazing restaurant.
Drinks in the upstairs bar while others arrived. They have an unbelievable selection of gin.Netherlands, Germany, UK, Canada, NZ, Singapore, and US represented here.Part of the 9 course set meal some chose.When did arrived and everyone takes pictures!Boiled fish maw soupAustralian beef with Sichuan peppersTofu with sesameOkraMushroom and roe
Some photo shots afterwards. We crowded into an elevator that had a bellman and trolley. He did not know what to make of us squeezing in that way instead of waiting for another elevator.
Downstairs in the Mandarin Oriental.
I also went to dinner on Sunday with my friend Elaine. She knows of a great Thai place in Po Park. The fish curry was amazing. So hungry we forgot to takes pictures. Another highlight was sitting in the Tesla cars in the mall.
Another dinner a day later at a different Cantonese restaurant to start the week.
Apple shrimp, a great mushroom fish, and a casserole with crab roe.
And more window shopping… This place was a one stop shop for a bunch of things. Stationary, snacks, wine (right next to the toys)…
Looking in a clothing store brought back memories of shopping for similar flannels for the kids and I to wear for the holidays….. Miss my family….
I traveled with Global friendship and Pachamama tour to a village outside of Kaiping for day of the dead celebrations. It was a two plus hour bus ride out of the city.
Kaiping area is home to hundreds of unique Diaolou-fortress watchtowers. They were used to protect the city from invaders and we’re built during the second world eat and with conflict with Japan. Kaiping is the hometown to many overseas Chinese many of which have an interest in maintaining and finding use for the many abandoned buildings. The villages are historic and surrounded by agriculture and traditional way of life. The Diaolou and villages are enlisted as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Tangkou village
The TK-SPACE is a communal space for international people to get together and learn and interact in rural practices and developments.
Two old factories were renovated to build this hostel and restaurant. The largest part was an old watch factory and the other made lampshades.
The place was already decorated for Halloween.
We had lunch and settled in then took a walk around the village where the abandoned buildings and diaolous. Many of the buildings the owners cannot be found or descendents won’t spend money to transfer ownership. As all the owners here are from other countries many are not here anymore and are elderly.
The design asking the to of not in concrete but of pressed rice and has survived the years.Wet painting. While the concrete is wet, the paint is applied and they must work fast. The color stays many decades later.This old place is like a mansion. So sad to see it empty.
This is the post office and all collect calls in the area came here which means they needed to be arranged in advance.
The mail drop.,
The Diaolou.
An old Diaolou. There is writing on the wall from 1946 where soldiers used this as a hideout during the war and to keep a lookout for japanese.Harvesting beans by beating the stalk.The old well for the village.In every rice field there will be an altar for good crops and always near a banyan tree which must never be cut down.The flowers and seeds (rice) in this rice paddy. You know how you cook rice or open a rice package and smell the rice? Standing next to the rice paddy, that is what you smell…From the top of the Diaolou.We painted pumpkins or skulls and are mexican day if the dead bread made as gifts to leave for the dead on Nov. 1.To be or not to be…..
Day of the dead party
My day of the dead costume….
Morning run
We ran from village to village for a 10k run the next morning and saw this moon. It was the first full moon that fell on Halloween since 1944. The picture here in the morning is better than the one I took at night.
I also went through a UNESCO area but did not take pictures. Unfortunately we did not go back there later that day.
After breakfast, we toured the crops. This place leases land to villagers and then buys back the produce for their center. They supply jobs and economic incentives.
Taro.Chickens.Yam.Eggplant.Peanut.They are harvesting sweet potato.This rice is within two weeks of harvest.This bathroom is state of the art for the area and had brought in tourism as a result. In front of this Diaolou is water chestnuts.
Wugong Mountain is in Jiangxi Province. This is one of China’s three great mountains south of the Yangtze River. The view of the alpine meadows is spectacular. One I have not seen on other hikes.
I took a super long metro (over an hour) to get to the high speed train station. From there the three and a half hour train and shirt car ride put us at the hotel at the base of the trail. The next morning we hiked.
We hiked 2 hours through the bamboo forest.
As we climbed higher it began to change to alpine forest then alpine meadows.
Eventually we emerged on the alpine meadows. We walked up and down through the meadows to where we stopped for lunch.
A few more hours of hiking up and down through the hills we reached the golden peak. Here you are surrounded by fields of tall grass that turn golden in autumn. They were just starting to turn but not at their full colour yet.
There were also quite a few temples at the top including this Taoist temple called the fairy temple.
While we were hiking the weather changed dramatically with a lot of wind, some rain, and the clouds taking over. Every turn brought different weather conditions.
Another hour of hiking and we arrived at the tents we were to stay for the night. An earlier festival had been rescheduled for this weekend.
We hiked 18.8 km and covered much elevation. There were rough shower and bathroom facilities but grateful to have any!
The next morning some of us tried to capture sunrise but there were a lot of clouds.
We had breakfast, returned our sleeping bags and mats then started the hike down. Downhill is not my favourite (my knees are starting to hate that). There were many very steep sections in the meadows to get through.
The hill was called desperation hill. It spanned 1300 meters and we were all pretty desperate just to get to the bottom.
There were many rocks to maneuver over. Just when I thought it was so tough were saw this man carrying the drinks they sell near the peak. Carrying that much weight is a feat.
A landslide from 4 months ago destroyed much of the pathway and we had to find our way over and back across the stream which was still flowing around all of the debris.
At the end, we were picked up by a car and driven to the hotel we stayed in the first night. A nice shower, late lunch, and playing with the puppies that resided there was a nice end of the day before taking the train back.
