I honestly forgot about this post that was lounging in my drafts. And summer continues until a few weeks ago when the weather started to turn cooler.
The summer was interesting. An increase in cases in Guangzhou meant more difficult travel. As I was taking 60 hours of leadership classes I stayed in the city for much of the summer. This summer I only traveled a little to Beijing and Inner Mongolia.
I took some breaks for nature areas in Guangzhou.
This summer was also the 100th anniversary of the communist party. It is interesting to note that the nationalist party that started to bring China to the modern age and ended the Dynasty and warlords period, was overthrew by the communists because there was no free speech. The nationalists would not accept any dissent. That is what is true of the communists today.
A new pedestrian bridge was built to cross the river.
Working internationally means people come and go frequently. Celebrations and going away parties…
Construction in the apartment upstairs meant finding another place to work. This time in a coffee house in my neighborhood.
Occasionally in feeding the homeless you get an opportunity to help furry friends.
I do like to stay active. If I keep moving maybe old age can’t catch up with me! Wishful thinking I know, but I am not as fast as I used to be and have changed some of what I do. But I like staying in shape.
Where our dragonboat group meets has stand up paddleboarding. That is something I miss from living in PA. I paid for a year membership and now go paddleboarding after every dragonboat practice that I can. A few of us go each time.
Tricia who was so brave to go even being afraid of water.
I also ran a half marathon for charity which was a fun circle around the river.
Jack and Justin, the other cross country coach at school, were part of our team Too fast, too hot. We named it after the cross country team who complained with those words every practice!
Dragonboat has been a great workout for my arms, shoulders, and abs. I even extended myself by learning to paddle with my non-dominant arm to learn more coordination. I am glad for the chance to improve a physical skill that I did not have much experience in. It is a great community of wonderful people. I usually show up to both trainings on the weekend.
We have been training for a 21km race but I will miss that. I will get back in shape for dragonboat once I come back from the US.
We traveled 370 km on the last day. It was a lot of time in the van but a few gorgeous stops along the way.
Palcho monastery
Built in 1427, the most prominent feature is the giant stupa. This one is different from others and has 5 floors and 68 prayer rooms. It is named Gyantse Kumbum. In each of the tiny chapels are exquisite paintings (kumbum means 100,000 images). It is important to follow a clockwise route around which is the same in any of the monasteries. The murals survived the Cultural Revolution though some statues had to be restored.
The monastery is unique in Tibet as it houses three separate schools of Tibetan Buddhism under its roofs – Sakya, Gelug, and Kadam. The monastery has aspects of Chinese Han, Tibetan, and Nepali architecture, and is one of the highest status monasteries in Tibet. Inside the temples are beautiful statuary.
Simila pass and Manla reservoir
Simila Pass is at an elevation of 4200 meters. The pass is unique to others due to the greater amount of countless colorful Tibetan prayer flags decorating rock faces. In this winding mountain pass, the wind here waves the prayers in beautiful patterns. The Manla Reservoir is the biggest dam in Tibet.
Karola glacier
The glacier originates at Mt. Noijin Kangsang (7,191m), which is one of the four holy mountains of Tibet.
The monastery is unique in Tibet as it houses three separate schools of Tibetan Buddhism under its roofs – Sakya, Gelug, and Kadam. The monastery has aspects of Chinese Han, Tibetan, and Nepali architecture, and is one of the highest status monasteries in Tibet.
This stupa is just for decoration though monks did visit it when we were there
Yamdrotso lake
Yamdrok Yumtso, is a beautiful lake along the old Friendship Highway between Tibet and Nepal. It is at an altitude of 4,441 meters. Yamdrok is the largest inland freshwater lake in the northern Himalayan mountain range. Yamdrok Lake is one of the four largest sacred lakes of Tibet (the others are Lake Lhamo Latso, Lake Manasarovar, and Lake Namtso). According to Tibetans, the lake is a lifeline and if the lake dries up, Tibet would become an uninhabitable place. One is not to swim in it. Tibetans pilgrimage to the Lake and walk around the lake in seven days to remove their sins and earn merit. The lake’s spiritual energies are from the Second Buddha, Padmasambhava, who brought Buddhism to Tibet. It is also believed Lake Yamdrok helps to find the reincarnated soul of the Dalai Lama.
Tibetan mastiff! Yaks!
Along the way back to Lhasa, we made a few other stops due to traffic through the pass.
If you look closely in to the picture, yak poop is dried too use as fuel for cooking and heating.
We drove a long time (8 hours and 340 km), stopped at several points, and had several checkpoints for ID. Travel was along the Shanghai Nepal road and where we stopped was at 5248 meters elevation. I definitely felt the lack of oxygen.
First glimpse of Everest along the pass.
Along the Gyitso pass we stopped for bathroom break and also to take pictures. You can purchase a prayer flag and write a recipient name on it. They tie it for you and the blessings and prayers are sent by the wind.
Here the option is to go on to Everest or continue on the other road to Nepal.
We hiked a short section to get to Everest base camp at 5,150 m elevation. The camp is located below the moraine slopes from the Central Rongpu Glacier. A moraine is the earth and rocks pushed by the Glacier when it was advancing.
In front of everest. Everest at sunset. One minute you can see it and the next it is converted in clouds. We are lucky to have had the weather we did that day.
We stayed in a large tent at the base camp. The blankets they use are very thick and the tent is heated by using dried sheep and yak poop. It actually gives off less ash and is more plentiful than wood. Our tour group was interesting : 1 Japanese, 1 Chinese, 1 American, 1 Brazilian, 1 Singaporean, 1 Russian, 2 Brits, and 3 Germans. We spent a lot of time together! The tent owner would cook fried rice with yak meat for dinner and an omelet or pancake for breakfast. Lowest temperature was – 4C at night.
The base camp for hiking Everest is another 4 km away. You can no longer get a permit to hike unless you have Sorvino prior experience. We are about 20 km to Nepal.
I came on this trip already with a headache and stuffy nose so not sure when or if I was acclimated to the altitude. But when I arrived at Everest base camp, I was definitely struggling. My vision pulsed with each heartbeat and I had no energy. I used a nasal cannula with oxygen for 30 minutes. I felt better and then continued to feel better as we went back down in elevation. My sports watch measures my pulse. My resting heart rate is normally 46 bpm but jumped to 68 after arriving in Tibet. No wonder it shows in under great stress.
The Tibetan name for everest is Chomolungma, meaning “Goddess Mother of the world”. This marker is the height at the top of Everest.
Himalaya means “abode of snow”. There is about 15,000 glaciers throughout the whole range. The Himalaya form an arc that separates the Indian subcontinent in the south from the Tibetan Plateau in the north. Many of the world’s major rivers, the Indus, the Ganges, the Brahmaputra and the Yangtze all begin here. The next three pictures are the Himalayan range. A panorama would not let me zoom in so close.
Along the way we could see Tibetan farmers cutting and taking hay by hand. They did lift the hay wagons pulled by tractors. They keep the hay in their yards to feed livestock.
We drove a long time to get to Shigatse. Along the way we had to present our documents at a police checkpoint. You need a visa for Tibet and permits to move from one place to another. Plenty to see!
Typical Tibetan rural home. Am alpine goat who was happy that I shared my apple with him and his buddy.
River view of Brahmaputra, the mother of all the rivers that flow from here.
After we settled in the hotel we had time to grab a quick bite. I ordered Thupke, Tibetan noodles.
View of the hotel from inside the courtyard.
Tashilunpo monastery.
It is one of the few monasteries in Tibet to weather the destruction of cultural landmarks of the Cultural Revolution. It is as if time did still, and walking on the cobbled paths that wound around old buildings. The monastery is now the largest religious institution in operation in Tibet.
The huge golden statue of the Future Buddha is the largest gilded statue in the world. Pictures are not allowed to be taken there but many would pray outside the doors, touching their forehead on the top decoration on the floor.
We walked back to the hotel and stumbled upon a Muslim night market. People have been very friendly here in Tibet as foreigners have not been seen here in about 3 years.
At breakfast, I ate more of the barley cereal and also tried butter tea. It tastes like rich butter dissolved in hot water. A bit to get used to and I’m sure my body needs this. Next time though I’ll add it to the barley cereal. I’m sure the Tibetan people cringe when they watch us do such things.
Potala palace
The palace was built in the 7th century AD when King Songtsen Gyalpo built a fortress on it for his two foreign wives (he also had a third Tibetan wife) . The left side of the palace was created in the magnificent vision today by the Fifth Dalai Lama. The Thirteenth Dalai Lama added on the right side of the structure to what we see today. The walls are 2 to 3 meters thick making it warm in winter and cool in summer.
The left side of the palace is the winter home of the Dalai Lama (7th century) . The right side is the newest addition to the building (14th century) This looks down in potala Square, the Tibetan equivalent to Tiananmen Square. Of course the picture of the Dalai Lama can’t be shown so instead the president of China is. The symbol means endless.
Since 1755 it has become the winter palace of the Dalai Lama. There is over one thousand rooms including the living quarters of the Dalai Lamas while they lived and their golden tombs after they died. It is the religious and political centre of old Tibet bearing witness to various political and religious moments of the past centuries. Potala Palace also holds a great amount of rare ancient cultural relics.
Later at night we went back to take a picture. Beautiful!
There are many stairs to climb and it is very challenging especially as your body is just getting acclimated to the elevation.
A drum made of horse skin. The tour guide big chodon in front of cloth made with yak hair. In front of open spaces like windows it protects from wind, rain, and cold.
Many Tibetans were curious about the foreigners, saying hello, and coming up to speak to us or just stare at us! One young boy called me Faguo, which is Chinese for French. I just laughed. Most guess Meiguo (American) correctly.
Outside the palace the monks walked among the people. Many who are disabled were waiting there. The monks blessed them and gave them money. Money is also given to shrines on the outside.
“The first time I stepped onto the rooftop of the Potala Palace, I felt, as never before or since, as if I were stepping onto the rooftop of my being: onto some dimension of consciousness that I’d never visited before.” Pico Iyer
Jokhang Temple was also built in the 7th century AD to house the statues of Buddha that princesses Bhrikuti from Nepal and Wen Cheng from Tang Dynasty China brought as gifts for their future husband, King Songtsan Gambo (the one who built Potela palace for them). The original statue that Princess Wen Cheng brought over 1300 years ago is the most sacred and famous one. The temple is on Barkhor Square in the center of the old section of Lhasa. Our hotel was a 10 minute walk.
Barkhor street a circular street around the Jokhang Temple in the center of the old section of Lhasa, it is the oldest street in a very traditional style in Tibet, where you can enjoy bargaining with the local Tibetan vendors for the handicrafts which are rare to be seen elsewhere in the world. Barkhor Street is one of the most important religious paths along which pilgrims walk around Jokhang Temple while turning prayer wheels in their hands through centuries. Buddhist pilgrims walk or progress by body-lengths along the street clockwise every day into deep night. For your first visit to the Barkhor, enter from Barkhor Sq, a large plaza that was cleared in 1985. The square has become a focus for political protest and pitched battles between Chinese and Tibetans on several occasions, notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008
Breakfast was a buffet from the hotel and I was able to taste a few Tibetan dishes.
This dish uses barley powder, dried yak cheese, and a little sugar to mix with hot water to a cookie dough consistency. Tastes like barley but I added more water to make it like oatmeal. The barley dish with toast and yak butter.
Being active is tough here but as the day wore on I felt a bit more acclimated.
Drepung monastery
The monastery was founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsong Khapa. Drepung had over 10 000 monks. As the biggest monastery in Tibet, the lamas helped train new Dalai Lama. There are now 600 monks. Drepung belongs to the Gelupa sect. In the past, if there are two sons in a Tibetan family, one son must become a monk. Now there is a choice. This monastery was the hole of the Dalai Lama before leaving Tibet.
Prayer wheels. Overlooking the monastery and the city of Lhasa. In the courtyard, there will be dances during festivals and the Dalai lama would watch from the upper right window. In front of the monastery. No pictures allowed inside. Stupa with prayer wheels. The bathrooms are a long or with half walls. The last time I saw one like that was Yunnan.
Tibetan prayer flags (Lung tas) represent peace, wisdom, compassion and strength it is believed that the flags with the mantras and messages carry the goodwill out to others.
Sera monastery
Founded a few years later in 1419 by one of Tsong Khapa’s eight disciples, this temple became famous for its tantric teachings.
Dormitories on the mountain. People pray as they walk clockwise around.
The paintings on this rock represent helpers. Wisdom is represented by yellow and blue is protection. These are Bodhisattvas and are male. Compassion is represented by white and longevity is green. These are Taras and are female.
Inside the sanctuary where monks meet for chant and prayer.
Other paintings
Yak butter. It is actually quite tasty.
At the end of the day, a group dinner with traditional music and dancing.
I have always wanted to go to Tibet but it has been closed to foreigners when I arrived to China and then covid happened. I had planned to go this last summer but they closed it to foreigners again. Luckily, my other tour for this holiday week fell through and I was able to scramble to get a visa and permit for Tibet! It required a few documents, a negative covid test, and a little waiting. Even with the extra hassle at checkpoints and the extra covid tests it is worth it. I will need another permit and possibly a virus test to go to Everest base camp.
Along with the shroud of spirituality, Tibet has distinct cultural traditions, intricate architecture, and a beautiful landscape. I have seen similar sights and ate some similar foods in Yunnan as these places are still along the Silk Road that connected other cultures to China and border Tibet itself.
Our first day was travel and going through the checkpoints. Along the way I met some great people. A chinese couple helped with translating and there I met a lovely woman from Scotland. While we were waiting for the second flight, two young men who wanted to practice their English chatted with us. Later on the bus I also met a couple Americans.
After settling into the room we were cautioned to take it easy as we would need to get adjusted to the altitude. In fact the next two days we will stay close to Lhasa to acclimate before going higher in elevation. Tibet is 4500 meters above sea level making the cities like Lhasa the highest in the world. Our only adventure was finding food.
Given the mountainous features of this area, Tibet is the most secluded and least populated provinces in China. It’s prominent feature is the Himalayas where the average mountain stands above 20,000 ft tall. To get from one scenic area to another will be long bus journeys. The views along the way will be amazing as this area is known for its breathtaking beauty.
In Tibet, Buddhism is not just a religion but a lifestyle. It actually is a lifestyle for many Buddhists around the world and is the way they embrace life.
Potala Palace from the bus window. That will be a lot of stairs to climb.
Tibet is also called the ‘third pole’. Tibet holds the third largest storage of water and ice in the world (after the Arctic and Antarctic). In fact, the water here is needed by 47% of the worlds population. There is a multitude of lakes, rivers, or glaciers. There is a lot of water here which makes it the center of geological and political interest. In fact, six of Asia’s largest rivers find their origin here in Tibet, including the Mekong, the Yangtze, and the Indus.. .
The diet of the people of Tibet is determined by the arid climate and high elevation. Food here include products unique to the region such as the Tibetan yak. Other foods such as yogurt and butter are popular compared with the standard Chinese diet. The most popular dishes include: tsampa (the staple composed of barley), balep (bread), thukpa (noodle soup), yak butter, yak cheese, yak yoghurt, and yak meat.
For our first meal, we tried a few items.
Noodles, vegetable Tikka, yak masala, and aloo Gobi though the spices are a little different. These noodles are delicious and the texture is more one of my favorite.
Tomorrow we will view palaces and see sights as well as have a large introductory dinner.
Busy Saturday. I delivered meals for the homeless and then ran 10k back to my apartment before leaving on a weekend trip within the province near Qingyuan.
We arrived at the site for Drifting. It flows on an underground river through 5 mountains and villages. The caves are impressive and it was a lot of fun. I tried to take some videos with my go pro.
We then headed to an ancient village. Yao Minority is one of the oldest ethnic groups in China dating back 1000 years in the Song Dynasty. It is the best preserved ancient village in China. The village is built in the mountains and many steps go up and down and around.
The village is so peaceful and remote.
They are rebuilding many homes that have burned or fallen to ruin. The government has helped them preserve their way of life and to attract visitors by updating rooms for people to stay.
Water runs through the village from the mountains.
Villagers still live in small dwellings that hold just a bed.
A village official near the temple.
Temple.
Sticky rice wine is the local alcohol drink. It was pretty tasty.
Watching dinner being cooked was amazing. High heat cooking over a wok was quick and the smoky flavor and smells was wonderful.
Sunrise.
Breakfast.
Homemade tofu and soy milk with a hand turned mill and a large vat to squeeze the milk out.
Morning walk after breakfast.
Ancient sarcophagus ruinsYao king house which is the high ranking officials home.
We then headed to Jinzi Mountain.
The peak is 1417 meters above sea level, Jinzi Mountain is the 8th highest peak in the province and had a set of stairs that have an 80 degree incline. It is relatively remote and having less tourists made it a great time hiking.
We saw this beauty near the ladder stairs. Do you see the snake? At the top is this Buddha. Legend has that gold and silver were hidden here by the Empress dowager and saying the right phrase opens it. One person left oreos in his left hand as a tithe. The beginning of the love ladders. It was a pretty steep climb. This is the love ladder section showing how steep the climb actually is. Zoomed in on the steepest sections .
It was a great and tiring weekend. I am always excited about spending time in a village and being in nature and less crowded places!
At night we visited the south part of the wall where much of the Nanjing Massacre events took place. We looked forward to seeing the other ancient city the next day. But disruptions…
Lotus seed. I had been eating them with the green skin which made it bitter. The seed itself is delicious especially without the skin. Egg tofu, a Japanese dishPickled fish, broccoli, and salted duck. The south gate of the Nanjing city wall. A performance about the history of the building of the wall and events through history. Traditional Ming dynasty costumes. From the top of the last section of gate. See the design in the image below. This was the first time this design had been used for fortifying the city gate. The top of this gate is massive with ramps for moving equipment up onto the wall.
We knew a typhoon was making landfall near Guangzhou. Jack’s flight to Guangzhou was cancelled by the time we awoke the next day but no indication that our train from Nanjing to Luoyang had a similar fate. We had seen in the news there was flooding in that province but was not sure if it was involved.
We also read the news that 9 covid cases had been identified in workers at the Nanjing Airport putting it at medium risk. We flew in there two days earlier. This will mean a virus test (as it is required if you were there after July 7). Our health code will most likely turn yellow as soon as we arrive to Guangzhou.
We headed to the train station thinking it was all okay but all trains and flights were cancelled going to Guangzhou and anywhere in Henan province. We booked a ticket to Shanghai by train as going east to that city gave us more options to travel out. We also booked a flight to Guangzhou but it was for late at night and was delayed as well. We did manage to find a nice hotel at the airport that charged 150 Rmb ($25) to stay there 4 hours. We stayed a total of 8.
I was bummed that we could not go to luoyang but if we would have been there we would not be able to get out of the flood zone. They received the same amount of rainfall they get in one year in just under a week of rain. It is terrible.
The one thing we did not want to do was to stay in Nanjing any longer. At the time of our flight, the number of cases became 17. A long day to get home.
