It rained most of the night but after breakfast we decided to try to go to hike the mountain. After getting at the foot of the mountain, we were told the cable cars were not operating and then at the foot path entrance we were told that was closed as well. So we hiked to the three pagodas.
The three pagodas
About 1.5 km north of Dali Old Town, these pagodas are unique Buddhist towers. They were built 1,800 years ago. It is a symbol of the history of Dali City, and a record of the development of Buddhism in the area. The Three Pagodas are made of three ancient independent pagodas forming a symmetrical triangle. The middle pagoda is the tallest from the Tang Dynasty. Inside were Buddhist relics.
The north gate of Dali from the foot of the pagodas.I am unsure what this rock sculpture represents and could not find the answer.This area is known for its marble.
Some history of Dali
In 738, the Nanzhao Kingdom was established with Dali as its capital.
In 937, the Kingdom of Dali emerged.
By 1000, Dali was one of the 13 largest cities in the world.
In 1253, the Mongols conquered the city and ended the Kingdom of Dali.
In the early 1400s, the old Dali City was rebuilt by the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), and it still stands in a similar layout today.
An alternative to hot pot
For dinner we went to a slate cooking restaurant. It is like hot pot where you order the basic ingredients then cook it on a stone. One of the servers helps with the cooking. You eat slower this way as you have to wait for things to cook. The sauces are amazing and not too hot.
City gates
There are four city gates. The east gate is near the guest house.
The south gate is over 600 years old and is the landmark of the town.
The north gate is a preserved palace building built in the Ming dynasty.
The west entrance that is not a gate
Fuxing street has architecture from the Ming dynasty.
It rained off and on through the day and it is forecasted to be the same tomorrow. We have more exploring to do in the area but hope for a break to hike the mountain.
This was the first time flying since being back in China. I planned this trip with Morgana, Tricia, b and Daniel. I met Tricia at an event last year and she messaged me about getting together for a dinner. I now have a wide circle of friends from other schools who have similar interests.
We were tested again for covid 19 as it was recommended to have a test completed within 7 days of travel. By the way, this is my 8th virus test. Many Chinese hospitals will not test foreigners and the one international clinic charges 10 times as much. We found a clinic that would test us.
We flew into Dali and a driver took us to Old town. Dali Ancient Town is one of the most famous ancient towns in China. As a major stop on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, or Southwest Silk Road, it is a town full of historic sites and traditional culture.
In search of lunch, we wandered the stone paved streets of the old town. We looked at the traditional architecture of the Bai ethnic minority. We stopped at a restaurant to try their local food and found snacks to take on future hikes.
On the corner of the foreigner street. Yes, that is a McDonald’s.This night club we intend to go back to tonight to hear the live music.All three places looked so inviting for one reason or another. This giant Teddy bear wins the prize for the day.
Hidden Hotel guest house and the map
Our guest house is very beautiful. There is a central garden courtyard with a stream that had crayfish, crabs, and fish.
The Bai architecture has three buildings forming a U shape with a fourth wall forming a screen. The courtyard is in the middle. The houses are built of brick and wood. Bai houses are decorated with black tile paintings, woodcarvings, and crafted marble objects.
The map they gave us covers many of the places we are going. The old map feel is genius. The square is where we are staying and we plan to view all the places inside this square and sights outside. The area is 3 square km or 1 square mile inside.
People
We were exhausted. School just ended and this year everyone was on edge and pulling double duty. School itself is always such a race. The first few days of vacation seem normal but then you crash. That was today. All of us just needed to lay down. I napped for three hours. When we woke up there was a different vibe in the streets. There were lots of vendors and we decided to do what I love, just eat street food.
Top of the picture is rice roll, the middle is a sticky rice cake with apple pineapple glaze, and the bottom is fruit we can’t identify except for the big one which is a wax Apple.
We ate some of the street food along the way then took the rest to this little night club we had seen earlier.
History of Dali
In 738, the Nanzhao Kingdom was established with Dali as its capital.
In 937, the Kingdom of Dali emerged.
By 1000, Dali was one of the 13 largest cities in the world.
In 1253, the Mongols conquered the city and ended the Kingdom of Dali.
In the early 1400s, the old Dali City was rebuilt by the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), and it still stands in a similar layout today.
On the last weekend in June, we traveled several hours on the bus to go to camp on an island on the other side of Shenzhen. I really don’t like camping but the opportunity to swim, snorkel, and paddleboard was worth it.
We had a great lunch along the way and celebrated the birthday of one of my friends, Tricia.
The water was terrific. The paddleboard had kayak paddles so I did not stand up on it as the paddle was not long enough.
We camped along the beach.
We caught barnacles and crabs. The crew cooked food on the beach.
Barnacles.
Sunset.
Sunrise.
There were plenty of places to explore and many resort buildings were abandoned. The history of the island was that of a place for pirates and smugglers.
Stone with inscription about the island.
The big thing that was hard to see was the amount if plastic pollution. It did not just all wash up there. It was obvious people who were here earlier just dropped their trash. The people who run the camping area really should have a system and more concern for the environment. There was a lot of trash in the ocean when snorkeling.
A good time was had by all. There was karaoke at night, games and camaraderie by day.
Due to the pandemic, there were no dragon boat races but plenty of dinners with friends as we had a day off during the week.
I met Claire at Taikoo Hui, a very upscale mall with stores I can’t afford. I usually come here for Godiva ice cream. We met at Putien which is featured in the Michelin guide. I tried purely Cantonese fair which included pig intestine and jellied pork trotters. I just tried. I don’t eat meat but you have to try something new. The yellow croaker was delicious as well as the purple seaweed. The greens were cooked with a duck eggs and pretty rich.
Afterwards we walked nearby to where a flea market was to be. It is mostly restaurant stalls and other things and was packed with people waiting. They only allow so many in at a time. It actually looks really cool and will plan to go another time.
On dragonboat day I went to get my 8th virus test. This one is so I can travel to Yunnan the next week. My friend Elaine went with me as she had been there before. The western clinics charge ten times as much. It would have been easier to go to the other clinic as we have to translate forms and even step in to type my English name in their computer. But the savings in money was worth it.
We then went out for a Western breakfast.
We decided to go shopping in the Fashion Hub. This shopping area is underground the sports center. You can get lost back here. You can make pottery, play games, eat, shop, and there are plenty of photo op areas. It is the craziest and most fun place.
That night I went to Catch at the Four Seasons for a friend’s birthday. Tricia was really surprised we were there and the food was delicious. It is on the 100th floor of the hotel.
There were tents set up outside s large mall. What in thought was a food festival was instead shopping if handcrafts and fun.
All of this was the end of two weeks of summer school. It was good pay but very tiring with STEM classes.
Making pressure sensors for a simulated brain.Using the microbit to get data on the force when the brain is struck with an object.Design challenge of building a water tower after looking at water pollution and issues.
I took a tour with Cycle Canton to escape the city (after all I need to get out of this city of 17 million and get to nature). We cycled through the beauty of rural Zengcheng district and celebrated the arrival of lychee season in the countryside.
We traveled 2 hours by bus before assembling where they had the bikes. There was a Taoist temple there and snacks and water. It is supposedly bad luck to take a picture of the Temple. How could this year be any worse?
I took the shorter of the 2 bike rides for a total of 23 km. We stopped often as it was very hot and we needed to drink water and allow others to catch up.
We passed through lychee, banana, and papaya orchards as well as gardens.
Scarecrows to keep the birds off the lychee trees.
We passed through several villages. At one, there was an old factory that had a chimney. A banyan tree started growing at the top and it was considered bad luck to remove it. When the factory was abandoned the village decided to keep the chimney as the tree was growing roots through it to the ground.
Another had an old building that was used to protect the village before China was unified into a republic and warlords protected each village.
We had snacks of hard boiled eggs, sweet potatoes, cherry tomatoes, and fruits (enough for a lunch) in a village before finishing and ending up at the lake.
Jackfruit tree.This is the largest village. The buildings are so small compared to downtown GZ.
Unfortunately I have no pictures of the lake as we were so hot we spent the whole time just standing in the water. During that time, we were about to see the solar eclipse. It was not as easy to see as it was very cloudy out but I was still able to get some good pictures.
It was also lychee picking season. This area is renowned for it’s lychees. We enjoyed them at every stop.
A very tired day and slept on the bus ride home. It was nice to get a different exercise besides running and walking.
It was a wonderful night of sleep in the village. Quiet and peaceful. Of course we were up late with rice wine and games but it was still a good sleep. Lots of roosters around so most people were not as happy that they were getting up a little earlier. We had time to relax before breakfast.
The Yau minority women stop cutting their hair at the age of 18. If sections do need cut they keep the lengths to make a larger hairpiece as a bun at the top of their head. The shine and health of the hair is amazing. They use the water that they soak the rice in as a rinse.
After breakfast we started our trek back through the terraces, this time going in another direction to see another village and the terraces from a different perspective. We walked through jungle on clay and rock paths winding up mountains and back down the other side. My hiking pole purchase was a great idea. The hike also took us through the terraces where we walked on the paths that Villagers use.
This different dog kept us company the whole hike. He seemed to know the way.The irrigation and care of the terraces is amazing. There are a lot of rushing streams and waterfalls throughout.We would still stumble upon random crypts of Villagers who are buried in the terraces.
At the Dazai village we wandered around.
If you enlarge the picture this man is carrying a huge snake!
At the top of the viewing platform. More stairs up and then more stairs back down!
On the way down we stopped to have tea with a friendly villager. I bought two kinds of dried mushroom and also a tea I’ve never had before. This is made from the inside of a mature fruit and it makes a naturally sweet tea. It is called Luo Han Guo.
Another hike and we were at Danzai village where we ate lunch then walked to the parking lot at the base of the cable cars (there is an easier way to see the terraces!)
The restaurant we ate at.Our view during lunch.
After a two hour plus bus ride and then a similar length high speed train ride we were home. It only rained once we were on the bus. It was perfect weather considering we are in South East Asia and it is the wet season. At the train station we took over a row of massage chairs!
On a last note, we had to register our names, passport, copy of negative covid-19 test, date arrived back in China, quarantine dates, etc. The police had our itinerary and followed up at every stop requesting those people collect and submit our information again. By the end of the trip we were pretty tired of the scrutiny and the fact that many people have our personal information. Good thing a consulate person was with us as this will be addressed at a higher level. On the train we were asked to show our passport arrival stamp when we came back to China. Myself and a few others refused. Traveling as foreigners is still contentious.
After an early morning run and a full breakfast we made it way to the train station to meet everyone that on the tour.
We took a 2 hour bus ride to Longji terrace. This guy hooked a ride on the bus the whole way.
We hiked to the restaurant in PingAn village. They make their own rice wine here.
Longji Rice Terraces, which means Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces, was given its name because the rice terraces resemble a dragon’s scales and the mountain range looks like the backbone of a dragon. It is noted as one of the most beautiful rice terraces in the world and has taken 600 years to build.
We visited the “Seven Stars Accompany the Moon”, which is made of seven small piles of rocks left on purpose by people when they dig up the terraces and a moon-shaped terrace in the middle.
We also went to another platform called “Nine Dragons and Five Tigers”. The nine ridges spread from the main vein of Dragon’s Backbone, which look like nine dragons bending over to drink water from the Jinsha river.
We then hiked to Zhongliu village. We had to go up and over larger hills and walked around the rice Terraces. Throughout the jungle were other rice Terraces and crypts or vaults built into the terraces were found for those who died.
There are many ethnic groups dwelling in that area and they account for more than one third of local total population. Our night was a homestay with a family from the local Yao minority. Their one street dog followed us the whole way. I learned to speak Chinese to ask if I could give him the leftover pork. There Chinese lessons are paying off.
I booked a tour to visit the Dragonback rice terraces in Guanxi province. A few co workers were going up a day early to relax and I joined them. I’m not sure my cats trust I’m coming back…
We stayed at the Zen tea house. It is beautiful with many outdoor spaces and a beautiful room.
There was quite a lot of rain before we arrived. Lots of places were flooded by the Li River.
We booked a food tour with the hotel. They took us to the wet market first to talk about local produce and what is special to this province.
The first stop was fortune cake. It is like birthday cake here in China. It is sweet and tasty but not rich and overly sweet like Western desserts. It is something passed down from a long time ago. It is made from taro and brown sugar. Different herbs and ingredients can change the colouring. It is wrapped in banana leaves to bake. This man had been making it just like his grandmother and is one of the few still carrying on the tradition. She is in the poster behind him. It tastes like plum pudding. It is a steamed cake with the top part being stickier than the bottom.
We were showed sweet potato noodles. I have always wondered what they were made of when I have seen then before and never really tried any. We were given a couple nests as a gift.
Other things we looked at or asked questions about:
Longji mushrooms that are grown here in the province. They are grown in the caves in the mountains in this area.Sticky rice. It is a staple here and the best rice to eat in a humid environment.
I pointed out these things and was told that these are water chestnuts. They are dug out of the mud along the banks of the river. The second picture is when they are washed. They were amazing. I’ve never had them fresh before. I’ll never buy canned again. They peeled them in front of us and we were able to try them. It was amazing.
A section of the wet market.
Yes, they had live animals but they were all frogs, fish, turtles, crustaceans, and fowl. Yes there is a bunny there too. I wanted to buy them and set them free.
This is monk fruit. You cut it and boil it to make a tea. We were given that and spices to try when we get home.
This is Gingko fruit. It comes from the female tree. The seeds smell awful and need to be thrown away but the flesh is supposed to be tasty. A fact I know: Western cities plant the Gingko tree as the roots don’t destroy concrete but they have to plant the male tree so there are no smelly fruit.
We next went to visit the palace. Along the way we picked up snacks like dried taro which have the consistency of potato sticks, dried ginger, and biscotti made from moon cakes sliced very thin. We also tried red bean, pear and mushroom, and sweet potato snacks. At the palace the man who a couple centuries ago completed all 7 tests to be considered a wise man in China was honored. This takes your whole life and is tough learning and tests. Only a handful of people achieve such greatness and, in the past, one of the gates is only accessible to those with the great knowledge.
We visited the various gates and looked at the old sections that are about 600 years old. In the old part of the village the Chinese way of tearing down houses but keeping the brick to use in the new construction makes the buildings still look like they are old. But the guide pointed out walls that were original add not rebuilt.
We looked at many small artisan shops. A very old section of wall.
We walked around the palace and to wooden dragon lake that feeds into the Li River.
We then walked to the other end of the lake and towards the tower to a vegetarian buffet operated by monks. It was a delicious meal. I don’t know the names of the dishes as he left us at this point but everything was delicious.
After dinner we walked around a bit by the lake.
Tomorrow we meet up with the rest of the tour group to go to the rice terraces. It was a fun day with a small group.
It has been officially over for two days. Starting out the year as what we would call normal, we left for Chinese New year thinking we will have a great two week vacation. Who knew it would have ended like this?
The second half of the year was surreal. Walking through rooms not being used and seeing calendars and notes left by teachers to remember things for when they return. It is all weird.
We started school with only about 1/3 of the faculty. Temp checks, teaching online and face to face at the same time, watching other classes while trying to grade assignments. Planning for the start of the next year not knowing what it will actually look like… We also are planning summer school and the amount of resources is a lot. I’m using microbit and making a model of the brain with sensors. This starts next week.
The past few weeks saw senior graduation, modified awards assemblies and only a few teacher get together with the faculty that is left. I think the thought is we can’t have a dinner without all faculty being here but it is cruel not to allow us some time to unwind with all that we are doing.
Lining up for graduation.Graduation. No hand shaking. Those not here were mailed their diplomas.The taking of the annual faculty picture.I’ve done a lot of walking around the city.A lot of walking…
Friends from other schools. I’ve gone on a couple of tours and a person I met some time ago messaged me. We’ve formed quite a little group of people who like to get out and see the sites and hike.
We went to hike baiyun mountain again but rain got in the way. We ate brunch, hiked an upscale mall, and then walked to Jujiang park. There was a student covid-19 art exhibit in the mall.
The last day of school was a half day for students. Teachers had a lunch and then a farewell assembly for teachers going on to other schools. At the end of the day we went to a local bar for a get together. It was well attended and had more people then in past years despite the fact we have less teachers. At the end of the night, a few of us went to the four seasons and to the top of the tower to the 99th floor. The view is spectacular.
Looking down the inside of the hotel.
Now that I’ve had a couple days to unwind, I’m off to do a tour and then start summer school.
I took a trip with Pacha Mama over the weekend. They always find great hiking trips. This trip was to a geopark in the province that is made of red sandstone. With erosion over the centuries, it has created a variety of landforms.
Mount Danxia is about 1 hour high speed train to Shaoguan and another hour or so drive from Guangzhou. That drive takes you to a very different place in China. It is one of the two UNESCO heritage sites in Guangdong province. The draw of this place for the Chinese is the two rock formations that resemble male and female anatomy.
Mount Danxia was beautiful with s variety of trails all with amazing views. There were narrow paths along steep cliffs.
After traveling there and eating a yummy lunch we took a boat ride through the park.
The hike was pretty spectacular with steep, wet stairs. This was to be a sunset hike but impending rain changed our plans.
This is the rocks we need to climb. A series of steep stairs wind around and up this. Our destination is the pagoda at the top.This rock resembles a male organ. Yangyuanshi is known as the male stone.Morgana and I. The whole thing is pretty ridiculous, right?If you look closely you can see the pathway we had to climb.
After making our way up the stairs along the cliff, we were now at the top.
The next morning were supposed to have a sunrise hike but they had closed the opening of the park until 8 due to rain. It didn’t rain though.
I found this guy at the entrance to the cable cars which we used to get to the top and then go down the other side. We were originally to climb the mountain but lost time when that hike was cancelled.
Grotto temple built during the Ming Dynasty. It was abandoned when China became PRC.
A few more stairs again to the pavilion at the top.
Then we had to go back down the stairs that were very narrow and steep.
At the bottom of the stairs.
Biechuan Temple
Walking back towards the entrance.
Xianglonghu lake means flying dragon. It refers to the shadows of the lake when flying overhead as it resembles a dragon. Here we saw children feeding the fish.
The female rock is called Yinyuanshi.
We stayed at a quaint little hotel in the base of the park. Our was a great weekend with people from all over the world.
